Wyoming B.S. Thread

Aren't those engines like 10-12k? Doesn't seem to far off, probably a lot of work shoehorning that in on a 10k truck depending on the market.

 

Texas taco coming up to Jackson/Teton area. Any suggestions on good breweries or food while in the area Fri and Sat from a local?

 

nooooo

like maybe 2k for a ge block(non turbo 2j). If that even.

With all the stuff on it he's got probably 7-9k into the engine build. Plus a fully rebuilt tranny.


Its some work, but not as hard as you'd think. Tranny bolts right in. CX racing makes engine mounts for it now so bolts in more or less. Get the right rear sump oil pan for the diff and such. It would actually be one of the "simpler" engine swaps honestly. Price tag to get in is just higher than most other options.

 

If it's such a "simple" engine swap, I would think you would see more of them done and it'd be more common.

Also what about the electrical? Can't imagine that would be much fun to try and get the factory cluster to work with the 2j. Might not be as bad as others though considering it's toyota to toyota

 

Ah, I must be thinking of the turbo version, is it the gte? Those are pricey right?

 

thai me up/melvin (restaurant/brewery)
Roadhouse (restaurant/brewery)
the bird (local restaurant)
local (restaurant)
bubbas (restaurant)

 

You can buy a ready made harness for 1200 last I checked.

So..yeah not bad.

That's of course in the scale that basically all engine swaps take way way more time and money than anyone likes to admit. It's not easy. But it'd be easier or as easy as something not Toyota.

If I had the space is have tried it years ago.

But the reality is no matter how much flak the stock power plants get in our trucks....they work. And keep working. It's reliable and works for 99% of the people that own one and there is rarely a reason to really replace it.

Correct. 2jzgte is not cheap. Think they are going for over 3k now. Parts also aren't cheap in general if you need a rebuild.

 

I can't remember what I was watching a few years back, but it had to do with a certain version of 2jz that was highly sought after by the "tuner" crowd. Might of been a cast block that allowed for higher hp build, idk either way the jist was 10-12k for this particular one.

 

the VVTI one is pretty sought after for its better flowing heads. They all had cast blocks. Heavy bastards but thats one of the reasons why they are so stout and can hold 800hp on stock internals.

But idk, wouldn't be surprised if there is a "holy grail" year. Im not super sure about that honestly.

 

Oh didn't know you could get a harness to drop it in. Nice.

But yea, that's to be said with any kind of engine swap. very labor and time intensive.

 

Yeah definitely not a simple project no matter what haha be super bad ass though.

 

Wife and I finally watched it. Although at home not in a theater. The mixing did seem a bit off. Had to turn up tv audio louder than normal. Pretty much agree with everything you said about it. "The Voice" wasnt all that impressive at home. or least not as good as it was in a IMAX setup. Maybe if we had a subwoofer instead of just speakers.

Definitely going to be a part 2.

 

First of all, I want to say that I was off my game just a bit on my last adventure a couple of weeks ago in the Idaho Sawtooth area with Ben.

On a couple of occasions I had trouble picking the right line on challenging obstacles and banged on my shit hard more than once. Normally this is not a huge issue because that is what armor is for, right? But if I fail to mount my armor and them bang shit, well..., that's not so good. In this case, I hadn't installed my trusty BAMF diff diaper. And then what did I do, yeah, I backed into a rock and dinged the diff pretty good. Like teeth rattling good.

With no weird noises coming from the rear end when I rolled, I thought I had dodged a bullet. So when a started to hear a new noise on the way home from Boise that seemed to be coming from the rear somewhere, a closer inspection was in order.

Here is a pic of the dent I put in the diff cover:



It feels like the indentation is about 1/8".

It was time for a fluid change anyway. So when I drained the oil, along with a little pasty sludge, this is what I found on the drain plug magnet.




FWIW, I put the rear axle up on jack stands so I could spin the diff to listen for noise, but there was no noise coming from the diff. There was however, noise coming from the wheels, both of them had an unusual amount of brake shoe dragging noise coming from them. And worse yet, the passenger side wheel had a pretty significant wobble to it. But the diff itself was quite.

So I pulled the wheels and drums off. The rear brakes are definitely not right and the shoes are unevenly wearing and the drums are not in very good shape. A complete rear brake job is definitely in order.

A close inspection of the axle flanges shows that I have a slightly bent flange and/or axle on the passenger side. And as near as I can tell, the drivers side seems to be ok.

Passenger side:



Driver side:



I'm pretty sure the noise I was hearing inside the cab was one or both of the rear brake shoes dragging. After putting it all back together and driving it around a little today, the noise I was hearing is a lot less, if not gone altogether.

What do you guys think? Are these 'chips' from the ring gear? Am I looking at a potential failure of the ring gear down the road?

And how bad is the bent axle? Is it time for a set of chomoly axles?

 

@Reh5108 are you sure you didn’t do any damage? Sounds like everyone else has done some damage. @Digiratus hope that chunk of metal wasn’t for anything expensive.

 

Hard to tell from looking at it, but yeah I would say there’s some likelihood that you took some teeth off the ring gear. We should be able to stick an endoscope through the fill hole and check it out.

Personally I wouldn’t do anything to the axles until they start leaking or the bearings go. Because you know it’s just going to happen again #semifloatproblems

 

I hadn't thought of that. Do you have one of those 'scopes'?

That's what you were waiting for on your OEM axle... and it never did...

 

The yukon chromoly axle shafts aren't too expensive all things considered.

I think they're a worthwhile upgrade if you're planning on keeping the stock axle.

 

That looks like ring gear to me. Or bearing. I'd pull the diff surprised you just didn't all things considered with how far you had it torn down.

But the shaft looks okay for now. I'd run it. It'll get worse over time then yeah upgrade time.

 

Yeah it's definitely not as impressive without a sub at least. We might go see it again in theaters because we have a monthly membership so doesn't cost us anything extra. But might not.

 

I remember when you and Jason @jubei did this and the troubles you had with bearings.

Did you use the 'cut to length' axles?

https://lowrangeoffroad.com/shop-by...-64-29-08-cut2lth-4340-106mm-brake-pilot.html

I saw these from Nitro Gear. A cut to length.

https://www.nitro-gear.com/Toyota-8-8-4-Nitro-Chromoly-CTL-Axle-p/axt34060.htm

I did not even consider it. Not sure I would be comfortable doing that by myself anyway.