Wyoming B.S. Thread

It's getting harder and harder to find a new vehicle worth buying..



Or maybe it's just easier to see why I should keep my old shit running.

Grabbing a low mileage 2nd gen or something pre 2010-2015 makes more sense these days.

 

According to my wife a new bronco is easy to buy the new tundra is incredible too.


New vehicles are just getting harder to afford, not less cool or desirable.

 

tell me about it. I got told we have to build a smaller house than we want because costs are so high right now. You'd think for near half a million dollars you'd be able to build a freaking mansion...nope.

tundra is interesting to me. But yeah, so expensive. I don't think i'll ever buy anything brand new in my life at this rate haha

 

Low mileage vehicle, eh? I got you.

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/d/portland-2002-toyota-tundra-4x4-54k/7441477713.html

But to put a different spin on the whole new vehicle subscription thing, while I hate it as well, it is what it is at this point. Heated/power seats, Apple CarPlay/Android Auto, most features inside the truck are yours to keep. If you want remote start, can always install an aftermarket unit, with the added benefit of the truck not shutting off when you open the door. “Free” nav also only runs 3 years, but that’s what Apple CarPlay/android auto are for. Plus the Toyota nav system is meh.

I am more concerned about the nanny and emissions stuff over time. But with used prices as crazy as they are, you get a lot more truck/features by going new-ish.

 

Unfortunately even aftermarket remote starts won’t bypass the auto shutoff when you open the door. I also couldn’t care less about the navigation. My phone is always better. The RAV4 we bought used started at nearly $5k more than what it would cost if we would have just ordered a new one and waited 3-6 months. Thankfully they came way down on the price, but I almost laughed when they told me what they initially wanted for it. I truly hope most people aren’t paying those prices, but I know they’re out there…

 

@Digiratus I measured 23.75". Kinda hard with the big bulging tires.


I'm having second thoughts though, should I just add keepers to my pack and run it? Is cracking the main leaf really a risk? The ride and flex is what I want, and changing it is worrisome.

 

I mean if nothing is wrong I'd send it.

More likely to crack a shorter leaf than the main one. I wouldn't worry about it personally

 

The leafs keep shifting so I'm worried there's been loads concentrated on it unevenly for a while. I can weld on an old ubolt as keepers but I can't remember if that's gonna create a weak point in the leaf due to the heat.

 

Ah so if that's happening what you should be worried about is the center pin.

Just like what happened to me this last summer if you recall.

So I'd pull the leaf springs, replace the bushings(probably well over due for that anyways) and then replace the center pins. The bolts probably stretched and the more movement the worst it will get and you'll end up shearing it at some point.

Then it'll be fine.

Hell, I have another skyjacker leaf if you want to put a new leaf in. It's even the same leaf I put in yours originally.

 

I had 11s on for the longest time, it's doable haha

 

Center pin isn't a real concern. I rebuilt the pack and replaced a leaf (from a second gen) and new center pins last year, so maybe a few thousand miles on them. Granted they need pulled off the truck to straighten the leafs anyways so ya I'm sure lots of bushings are due at that point.

 

Ah well then you didn't torque em down enough if they are spinning. So maybe just tighten them up and you'll be good.

 

Monte, the clamping force of the center pin has little to do with negating the leafs from spinning. That's why leaf packs have keepers. It's a single point with long moment arms, you would strip the threads before you could clamp the springs enough with a single nut .

 

Looks like the rear so I'm going to say that is a bit under 3" over stock. The OEM setup had about a 1/2" more in the rear than in the front. My truck, with 36K when I first got it was ~21" in the rear.

 

It helps. Certainly the simplest thing to do if you don't want to replace them. If they were new they have no doubt stretched. So they could use a re torque I'm sure.

Frank doesn't have enclosed retainers and I don't think Igor does either.

 

Yeah rear, front is at least adjustable and about as low as the icons go.

2.75" of lift seems like a lot as I've been trying to keep it low for a while. 21" is a good data point. I think I'll pull the tire and try to get center of the drum, might give more accurate reading. Thanks Mike.

 

At this point anything done to frank is irrelevant as it's non-op for the last 5 years, hate to say it.

I'll probably look into dropping the axle this weekend or finish reinforcement of the driver's shock tower. Can't just tighten the center pin without going to that level of work sadly. I just get uncomfortable seeing the leafs like this:

 

literally just have to undo the U bolts and your there, then just a 14mm or 9/16 depending on the bolt and hit it a wrench. I would use a gun as you can zip it off.

none of your leafs have the retaining U still?

 

No someone cut then off in Wyoming years ago. I found some on Amazon I'll get ordered though, never thought to look for them before.

Also here's some photos from my trip to the races. Didn't take all that many pictures, mostly used my phone.

 

I'm pretty sure you will change the property of the spring by welding it.