Wyoming B.S. Thread

Lol, but now that you've done it....



It's good for you, stop being a bitch!

 

That's a good point. But I've never heard of that being an issue...but then again I don't know hardly any one with clickers..

Awwww did da poor wtitle engineer break a finger nail too??

Why didn't you just use the bushings from the 5100s you just pulled..

 

Would be cool if they did that. I know i just keep referring back to dirtbikes but there are multiple adjustments on the suspension for those, i dont see why they couldnt do it for trucks too?

On my bike there's 2 clickers on each fork, one for compression, the other for rebound, and on the rear there's adjustments for low speed compression, high speed compression, and roubound. All easily accessible with a flathead screwdriver. Granted, valving your suspension is really the only way to get it 100% dialed in, but having some little, easily accessible on-the-go adjustments would be pretty handy.

This holds truth as well, back to a dirtbike reference: A few of the clickers, actually the only clickers that have lost the "clicky" feel to them are the ones on the bottom of the forks...i.e. the ones that see the most dirt and grime. They still adjust but you just have to be a little more precise since you're no longer relying on the actual click of each quarter turn.

 

I am curious if you tried to put the bushing on the shock before mounting the shock on the truck.

The way I have always done it is to use a table vice to push the bushing in to the eyelet on the shock. The allows the bushing to compress enough to slide into the eyelet. If you do it with the mounting shaft running through the bushing it is a lot more dificult because the rubber bushing cant collapse enough to fit into the shock's eyelet.

 

Sorry Buddy, was just trying to offer helpful suggestions. It sounds like those are/were much more difficult than what i've experienced.

Also, to prevent the bushing from seizing on the shaft, like other things involving a shaft, a little lube goes a long ways.

 

You need to grease them, not wd40. Then they will pop right in. Never put in rubber bushings dry on anything ever.

I told you you where more like 4" of lift. You need at least 9.5" shocks if not 10s and longer bump stops.

Using a vice and socket they will go right in or out. Or a piece of tubing or something.

 

I hate putting rubber in dry too...

 

They won't last long.
So when they die, don't complain or blame them...haha

 

No balls.

 

You need longer bumps.

Actually, need to relocate the shocks to make it all work.

Have you looked at the TC shock relocate? Super simple and cool. Think I'll do it to Igor.

 

Eh..sorta. Kinda short still. It's designed to work with a 2" emulsion shock from King/fox/ads whatever that's 10" long. It allows the gain of droop but retains stock uptravel so you gain down travel without loosing up travel. Pretty cool kit.

You do have to weld it on. But it uses two bolt to line it up so its easy to set up. Have to weld lower mounts though too. And you do have to run wheel spacers to clear the shocks as they go outboard of the frame.

 

Here is the kit. Can keep your spare under there with this. Just have to use 1.25" wheel spacers... Would be the best setup you could do though. Without a crossmembers inside the frame.

A bolt for the bumper?? Like to mount it? Nah. Just take the other one that you have to the parts store or hardware store. Find the pitch matched there, usually a rack with nuts and bolts welded to it that you can thread your bolt on to figure out the size and pitch. Then buy a grade 5 or 8 bolt the right size.

Probably a m8 1.25 or something.

Be cheaper then a Toyota bolt

 

I had DSM price out some ADS shocks for me...

$406.30 per shock for the Kings and $532.70 per shock for ADS

Any input?

 

Wow, close to $600 all total. That is more the my shock relocate.

 

Is that for the clicker models? Did you price out Fox 2.0 smooth bodies?

edit: I think I paid about $180 each for my non-clicker model Foxes. I do think the price has gone up a little since then tho.

 

Yes those are with resi's and clickers. Still debating the clicker feature. I still think it'd be nice to be able to have some quick fine tuning adjustments while on the trail.

I did not price out Fox's. Those come on Ford Raptors and i can't be seen with those under my truck

 

WOW I use to like Fox

 

Mike knows i'm kidding i have nothing against Fox

 

I think you will find the Fox RR clicker model to cost less that the Kings.

 

rear shocks.