X-Runner Oil Pan Spacer FS

I would be willing to consider it. It would take a little redesign to fit the pan. My guess is Torspd has an old pan I could borrow to take dimensions from. Torspd lives close to me.

 

That sounds awesome. If he ends up not having one, i can pull the one off my truck and send it to you for R&D, just let me know!

 

I have two (2) oil pan spacers without baffles left.

1. 91iroc - Spacer with no baffle
2. xrunnahj - Spacer with baffle
3. Smiityxr1984 - Spacer with baffle

 

I have two (2) oil pan spacers without baffles left. If you want one of these with a baffle, I will add it.

1. 91iroc - Spacer with baffle
2. xrunnahj - Spacer with baffle - shipped
3. Smiityxr1984 - Spacer with baffle

 

I noticed today, that the Xrunner Underground website has been suspended. This is where I had the write of the install for the Oil Pan Spacer. As a result, I am reposting that information here.

Coupe Oil Pan Spacer Install


Kit comes with:

1. Oil Pan Spacer.

2. Tear drop oil pick up tube spacer.

3. Stainless bolts, washers & lock washers.

4. Two (2) Toyota gaskets for the oil pick up spacer.

5. One tube of Toyota FIPG.

Drain engine oil.

Jack up front of truck and install jack stands. Chock rear wheels.

Take all of the bolts out of the stock oil pan.

With all of the bolts out, pry off oil pan. Sometimes is you take a soft faced hammer and whack it, it will pop off. Sometimes it is easier to place a flat blade screwdriver between flange and engine block to separate the pan from the block.

Clean off oil gasket material off of engine block. Steel wool does a good job of this.

This next step is suggested, but is not absolutely necessary. Grind the outer flange flush in the area of my fingers. The area around this bolt hole is where the single stud goes (this will come up later in the write-up). Removing this material will help placing and tightening the hex nut that goes on this stud. After grinding down these areas (I used a bench grinder) touch up the area with some black engine paint.











This is the stud that the pan is cut back to access the hex nut easier. You will see more on this as you pan down.




There are two bolts that hold the oil pick up tube to the engine block. Remove these.

I use a Q-tip and clean the oil out of the bolt holes. The kit comes with a tear drop spacer. Place one gasket on each side of this spacer. The oil pick up tube goes on one side, the engine block on the other side. The kit comes with stainless bolts, washers & lock washers. I used a blue loctite (242) on the threads. Toyota says to torque the bolts to 80 in/ft. I went a little higher to 100 in/ft.














Go put your oil pan bolts, washers & lock washers together and place conveniently to yourself under the truck. Lock washer goes on bolt first, followed by a flat washer. (I usually throw in an extra bolt/washer/lock washer in case you drop one.) This is an important step as the Toyota FIPG is time sensitive. You need to install the pan in 15 minutes after coating the flange on the oil pan.



Before applying FIPG to the spacer. Take the oil pan spacer and trial fit to the engine block. Coat the side that mates to the engine block with the FIPG. Just coat the side that mates to the engine. Don’t go crazy with the FIPG. A light coat is all you need. If you put too much, when you snug up the bolts, this will ooze everywhere.



Loosely bolt to engine block. Place all bolts, except one special hole. See, where my finger is pointed, this bolt hole gets a stud instead of a bolt. Hand tighten the bolts (or torque to 20 ~ 30 in/ft lbs.) Screw the single stud into the block. Let this FIPG set for an hour.






After an hour, remove all of the bolts, leave the stud in place (no hex nut installed). The FIPG will hold the spacer into place.


As before, get your bolts, lock washer, and washers together, conveniently located near you.

Coat the flange of the oil pan with FIPG. Locate the oil pan over the spacer. Place all of your bolts loosely into place. Leave the stud for last. Hand snug the bolts. Then torque all of the bolts (except the stud.






I set my torque wrench at 50 in/lbs. Torque from the inside and work your way outward. See diagram. Follow 1, 2, 3, etc.



Then I set the wrench at 100 in /lbs (Toyota says 80 in/lbs). Do the same torque procedure. Do 1, 2, 3, etc.


Go put the hex nut on the stud. You may need to cuss a little to get it on properly. After you get it started, you will have to tighten it with a box end wrench. You will not be able to get a socket on it. Grunt, until you reach 100 in/lbs.

I let the pan set for a few hours to let the Toyota FIPG get a good bond.

Put the drain plug in the pan and tighten.

Replace oil filter.

Fill pan with 6 quarts of oil. Start engine. Let run for a minute and turn off engine.

Check oil. You may need to add ½ ~ 1 quart depending on your oil filter size. We used a large oil filter and the capacity was 7 quarts.

Run for a few minutes and check for oil leaks.

 

I have these ready to ship.

 

Subd for future so I don’t lose track

 

I make an ocassional run of these. I do not typically stock them.

 

Do you have a spacer with the baffle currently ready to go?

 

PM sent.

 

I have two (2) spacers left. One with a baffle and one without.

 

I have two (2) spacers left. One with a baffle and one without.

 

Hi! I was directed here for a spacer, prefer a baffled. But either way, I won't be racing the truck. Just want the additional oil in this desert climate. How much?

 

Do it I just got mine!!

 

PM sent.

 

I was directed here for a spacer with a baffle. I was hoping you had one left

 

pm sent.

 

X-runner FB page?

 

I have two (2) spacers left. One with a baffle and one without.

 

I have one spacer left with a baffle.