XPOTRPR build & BS

Didn't even squat.

 

Hardly! Lol

 

Gonna take a lot of work to fit those on there.

 

Ha!

 

Well... that escalated quickly. The truck still leaked after the shop re-sealed the oil pan so I took it back this morning. Apparently.. its the Upper pan.. what I was afraid of. They found a small crack from the front diff making contact due to worn out motor mounts. Quoted me 1200 for the repairs including a Toyota Upper pan. I'm going to make the switch to Solid mounts during this I think.. Wondering if I should do the Tranny mounts at the same time. I think I remember reading that both need to be solid.. @Torspd any insight? My concern is Solid Trans with my IPT valve body.. is it going to be too much shock with a solid mount?

 

More unplanned upgrades happening.. at least thats how I'm looking at it..

Ordered some Solid Offroad solid motor mounts to hopefully stop this from happening again. Hopefully have the truck all back together the end of the week.

 

Man, I mean, might as well just SAS and V8 swap it now.

 

lol. Saving the v8 swap for the Mini!

 

Before even finishing reading this post, poly engine mounts came to mind. There are now three styles available, I believe. @Bonzen are mine, and the only that I have any experience with. Still profoundly proud of them. With an auto, and a soft trans mount, there will be extra vibes in the cab.

You can do the engine mounts and wait on poly transmission mount. You cannot do the opposite.

Being that you have an '09, you should not need the DMZ Fab engine mount gussets.

The easiest manner that I can think of to fix your Upper oil pan, is IF the cracked area is accessible around the diff.

You do have the option to drop the diff, while still attached to the hubs. Then access the oil pan. Still tricky with the steering rack. Grind a fairly deep groove then fill with TIG or MIG. Doing this however, a risk of aluminum shavings into the pan, is present. With only flushing by oil to remove. Prep by draining the oil obviously. The clean with acetone and preheat the crack with good quality heat gun on high.

The longest method would be to take the pan off, and weld it on a bench.

Time is what will dictate your choice of "field repair" or "shop repair."

I'll upload a video from Welding Tips and Tricks. They use a two part spray to highlight how long the actual crack is.

https://youtu.be/9VDCcAj7Nzw

 

Thanks man! I always appreciate your time you put into your posts. thank you. I thought about doing the quick fix, but I've been on the trend lately of just spending the time and or money to fix/upgrade/beef up whatever I can when that time comes. This is that time.. lol

 

That's the best choice.

 

Here we go..

Should get the truck back tomorrow.

 

Can't wait did the updates after installation.

 

Definitely excited to feel the difference and improvement!

 

Well.. the worry in the back of my mind I've had for years regarding the combination of my URD equal length headers and TC UCA gussets, came to fruition. Trying to get the upper pan and motor mounts replaced, and they can't get the starter out due to the headers, and can't take the headers out due to the TC gussets. Everything is in the way of the motor mount bolts up top. I Stopped in and checked it out and came up with a gameplan. Hoping to just unbolt the driver header and move it out of the way enough to clear the starter. I've been sitting on a replacement starter for years because I haven't been able to swap it. Going to drop it off and have them replace it while it's torn apart. Then reassemble with a new gasket on that side and install the mounts and everything.. including the new upper pan. Which I did get to see now that everything was out of the way. Definitely smacked it good. Good enough to dent the aluminum casting and crack it. At least everything will be taken care of...

 

That sounds not fun

 

Playin it by ear right now.. but the total is definitely creeping up still..

 

Got the truck back with the new upper pan, starter, and solid motor mounts, and immediately dropped it off for an alignment since it needed one after KOH anyways. I'll get it back tomorrow and wash it up real good to keep an eye on everything before I start installing all the skids and stuff again. Motor mounts feel fine. Hardly a difference in vibes or feel considering the truck already had a bunch of vibes and noises to begin with.

 

How did they end up getting to the starter?

 

Pulled the header enough out of the way.