XPOTRPR build & BS

Yeah dude. IDK what part of that system specifically, but turning it all off solves it.

I think we can haz.

 

Count me in

 

Got my Airtank from Poly Performance. What a great setup for the price. Screw Powertank. This 10lb Poly tank is half the price.. and it comes with a mount and VLAIR coiled hose. I never understood the high cost of the Powertanks. For what.. some powdercoat and gauges? ..Not needed.

 

Dual viar p425’s and done. No need to refill a tank ever. Just flip a switch and hook up a hose. Fills the 37’s from 12 to 30 in like 3-4 min per tire.

But back to more important topics. When and where is this race?

 

In time. I've liked my air tank setup. I've been running it problem free for years. And it's much faster than 3-4 minutes. Lol. I just needed more room and to save some weight going to an aluminum tank vs my old steel tank.

And you're gonna have to make that drive..

 

Well you’ll have to see how fast it goes now that you got the bigger tires.

And at least you are starting to get better weather down there. I’ll be less opposed to heading that way for a weekend of wheeling

 

The tank should still be faster, but you're right.. it will take more than my 33s. I'll eventually go to a dual arb with a tank under the bed, but want to get my dual battery and power all sorted out first. Then start wiring up accessories.

It's definitely nice out. Prime wheeling and camping weather. Going to be cold up in the PNW... Lol

 

How do you like your baja boss MTs? Road noise?

 

I'm loving them actually. Although, I havent had too much time in the dirt with them yet. Hoping to change that here in the next couple weeks when we head up to Oregon.. get some snow testing in as well.

I have had them long enough though to know I like them on the street too. Road noise isnt too terrible honestly. Asymmetric tread pattern, so its not as bad as others out there.. plus the lighter load rating. The load rating is definitely a game changer, to me anyways, as I always ran E rated tires. These D rated are softer. Definitely not as abusive with the lighter rating/sidewalls. They have less ply's but they have their proprietary sidewall tech, so it helps in that area. no complaints so far. We'll see how they wear and work wheeling..

 

I only ran C range, so I really don't want to go to E's but I think D's would be okay. Yeah their asymmetric tread reminded me of the wrangler MTRs and those have low road noise too. Might have to pull the trigger on these in the future.

 

ahh ok, so yeah, you'll probably notice a slight decrease in ride quality, but still significantly better than a E tire. They are kinda pricey.. I got lucky and scooped them up private sale. Depending on how they hold up wheeling and stuff.. I'm already ok with paying the higher price of them.

 

cross post from the Super Pacific X1 thread. wanted to include this on my build as well.


Alright, found my stick of 6061. Going to cut it to length tomorrow and start playing with it more. So far.. I think it might work out pretty well. My biggest hurdle is going to be figuring out my water tank honestly. I'll need to space it at least another 5/8" off the Molle Panel that's 1/8" thick for a total of 3/4" spaced from the T slot. I'm glad I found this out now though and not up there. I'll get some stock and work or cut some 2x4's up, space it, then strap it back up. That should make enough room for this bar idea and the X1 tab.

Ended up going with 3/4 x 2-1/2" bar. Its over 6 foot long though and hanging off the truck, so its slightly angled when trying to lay it down to fit.

Where it sits with the water tank as is.





Here you can see the ~1/8" gap between the T slot and bed height. It only protrudes 1/4" with the water tank in place as is. I plan to fill that gap with another piece of 1/8" x 3/4" or 1" aluminum flat stock. It will be sandwiched between the top bar and T slot and the bolts ran through it all with nuts inside the T slot.







This is where it "needs" to sit. per our measurements and thinking. 3/4" off the T slot.






Shifting that bar towards the rear to get the 3/4" overhang overall from T slot for the X1 tab to locate on, leaves 1" to mount to the T slot and 3/4" of contact on the top of the bed (total of 2-1/2"). I figured between the bolts (thinking 6) and some 3M tape and or Butyl Tape underneath and in key areas will really stick this thing down and seal it up nicely.

 

SO here's what I'm thinking. I think I'm just going to make it and see what happens. If its an issue, it can easily be unbolted and we're back to square one. I'm hoping this will make it like a 3rd gen and they can just adapt that to mine. IDK..

4x M8 x 1.25 Socket head screws by 22MM long. With appropriate hardware.








and there's my problem.. lol Just need to space it..



Spaced out and a little extra for the X1 tab. I'll just go 1" spacing from the Molle panel and should be good.

 

Are there available unstructured nuts, or "extended"/tall nuts? Getting a wrench or tool on the regular height nuts may be a challenge.

 

I thought about that.. But I think it'll clear.. just gotta angle the wrench a bit vs going straight into the T slot.

 

Strong wing nuts may also be a choice to consider, should you encounter an issue.

 

Ahh true. Good idea.

 

Got some time to kill before our install today.. guess I'll make a little update.

Finished the front bed filler thing.. hopefully it works without issue with the camper. Luckily it is easily removable if not.


1/8" x 1" flat stock fills the gap between bed and T Slot rail.



Secured the top bar with x4 M8 x 1.25 Socket heads.