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Yes or no on wheel spacers

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by busatodd, Jan 10, 2010.

  1. Jan 13, 2010 at 8:56 AM
    #41
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Greg
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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    This is actually a very good point. Aftermarket wheels that are lug centric would theoretically be weaker than hub centric spacers. That makes me feel even better about running Spidertrax.:)
     
  2. Jan 13, 2010 at 10:57 AM
    #42
    TacoSupreem

    TacoSupreem Dirty Trucker

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    Hayden
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    I think u will be ok running the spidertrax hub centric spacers as long as they are installed correctly and torqued to the proper specs!
     
  3. Mar 14, 2010 at 7:10 PM
    #43
    catsikl

    catsikl Member

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    So. California
    Vehicle:
    06 TRD Off Road PreRunner
    Bilstein 5100's Front & Rear Sway-Away Sway Bar AAL Ivan Stewart Rims BFG AT 265-75-16 Full Stereo System Redo Kenwood Head W/ HD Radio & Bluetooth & 360W Amp Boston Speakers JL Sub Alarm Air Horns HID B-Cool Billet Grille InvisaBra Shrockworks Sliders
    For those who have the Spider Trax, did you have your truck aligned afterwards?
    Or do you even need to?
     
  4. Mar 14, 2010 at 7:17 PM
    #44
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Greg
    New Mexico
    Vehicle:
    TRD Off Road 4x4
    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    No steering or suspension geometry is changed. You shouldn't need an alignment.
     
  5. Mar 14, 2010 at 7:25 PM
    #45
    catsikl

    catsikl Member

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    06 TRD Off Road PreRunner
    Bilstein 5100's Front & Rear Sway-Away Sway Bar AAL Ivan Stewart Rims BFG AT 265-75-16 Full Stereo System Redo Kenwood Head W/ HD Radio & Bluetooth & 360W Amp Boston Speakers JL Sub Alarm Air Horns HID B-Cool Billet Grille InvisaBra Shrockworks Sliders
    Cool!
    Thanks for the response! :)
     
  6. Mar 14, 2010 at 8:42 PM
    #46
    BUZZ5

    BUZZ5 Well-Known Member

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    Someone wanted to see pics of the spidertrax installed. Here's mine, front & rear.
    DSC02551_d2e3c44cfbc49bb3c026f576671a3d158de5bc29.jpgDSC02550_3b0e184853baebdbbf53ad72b342f32fde2882d2.jpgDSC02554_52856b9ba18127394cf0ca03e68315b59e4ef38f.jpg
     
  7. Mar 14, 2010 at 8:44 PM
    #47
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    I'm running the Spidertraxx with no problems. Good product. And believe me, I've been preaching how lame spacers/blocks/etc are for years and how they add stress to other parts BUT with running 265/75's on stock wheels I feel that the added stress is insignificant. Now I probably wouldn't use them if I was running 37" swampers with beadlocks, but with small tires (less than 35") i see no problem.

    Spacers have come a long way. My Spidertraxx aren't going to break, they add almost zero mass to the wheel/axle, and they look cool.

    Just install them correctly, use thread lock for peace of mind, and torque them to 80lbs. And get hub centric Spidertraxx, product is legit.

    And the spacers are balanced evenly so as long as your alignment is already good, and your tires are already balanced you're good to go after installation.
     
  8. Mar 30, 2010 at 9:09 PM
    #48
    white sr5

    white sr5 New Member

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    Just bought a 2010 4x4 SR5 with 3" toytec lift, and 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers. The dealer installed the lift and tires. I'm using the factory rims and the tires rub on the frame at full turn. The dealer said that he could order or build a steering stop to avoid this and that it comes with the 6" lift. I'm not opposed to this, being that everything they are doing is covered under waranty. But, wouldn't it be easier for me to just purchase some wheel spacers to fix this problem. I'm not rubbing the UCA, but you would almost need a feeler gauge to measure the clearence between it and the tire. So, I don't know if anyone can help, but by using wheel spacers will it cause me more problems, as far as having to trim anything(which I don't want to do). I think if I spaced it out a little, not only will it give me more clearence on the UCA, but it may solve the rubbing on the frame problem. Thanks for the help in advance.
     
  9. Mar 31, 2010 at 3:56 AM
    #49
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    Icon Extended Travel Coil Overs, Fox Rear Resi 8-Way Adjustable Shocks, Light Racing UCA's, OME Rear Leafs, M/T Classic Locks 17x9, Nitto T/G (285/70/R17), 5mm Billet Aluminum Spacers, Demello Sliders, All Pro Front Plate Bumper & IFS Skid Plate, PIAA 510's, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, O2 sims, Rear Timbren's & U-Bolt Flip Kit , 3* Rear Axel Shims, Extended Rear Brake Lines, 48" Hi-Lift with a ton of accessories, Wet Okoles, TRD bed mat, Borla Air Filter, Garmin Nuvi 765T, Viper 5901 remote start, 50% tint.
    Are you rubbing the cab mount? If so, wheel spacers will just make the problem worse. Many people (myself included) have boxed and welded the cab mount (looks like a black arm sticking out and it has a big mounting hole through the rounded outboard end of it) to clear the larger tires.

    Think of it like this, you are turning the wheel a certain angle about a centerline (Take a string and a pencil, tie the pencil to the string, hold the string at the lose end and rotate the pencil any angle, say 120 degrees. The pencil inscribes a radius. Now, make the string longer and inscribe a radius with the pencil along the SAME ANGLE. What happens is you travel a greater distance due to the increased moment arm.) This is exactly what happens when you add a wheel spacer. It most likely will make your problem worse.

    I purchased a 5mm wheel spacer to move the wheel further away from my caliper. This should also buy you room with your UCA but won't help with hitting your cab mount. Have you tried cranking up your lift a bit more?

    Your choices that I can think of are:
    1. add more lift
    2. run smaller tires
    3. box/weld the cab mount
     

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