Yet Another ECGS Bushing Installation - 2013 Tacoma

Thanks for your help...there are two lips to the side that faces the clamshell...in the smallest diameter lip or the outer most lip?

Thanks again.

 

What exactly does said vibe feel like, my trucks steering wheel shakes back and forth alot when i drive for the first time in a long time, usually gone by the time i get where im going

 

like this?

 

Not exactly sure what you are trying to say but the spring on the new seal should face inward. The smaller diameter lip should be the side that faces inward. Make sure when you put the new seal in you don't push it in too deep.

 

No that doesn’t look right. It goes on the inside


Please just get a new seal since you’re already in there

 

^^^What he said^^^ Definitely buy a new seal while it is apart.

 

Oh, ok. I do see that the new seal already has the garter spring. I wonder if that is the reason my old seal leaked (the garter spring had come off and was floating around). So the side with the spring on the new seal should face inward. Thanks.

 

Correct.

 

You guys rock! Thanks for the help and advice!

 

I heard of people using an abs pipe coupling to drive the rubber seal back in...any thoughts for what to use so as not to damage putting the seal back in?

 

Almost like a groan/humm between 25-45. Best way to test for it is put it in 4wd. If it goes way when you engage 4wd then the needle bearing is your most likely culprit.

What yours sounds like is flat spots in your tires from sitting then once they heat up they even out and you're good. I noticed my load d rated tires did it bad but my new load e rated light truck tires don't at all.

 

I'll be doing it in late May or early June of you still have it then or let me know who does. Pretty please. Looks like it will make the job quite easy.

 

Feels like a hum hum hum, you can feel it in the steering wheel. If you engage 4wd it goes away.

You could have flat spots in your tires from sitting.

 

It did make getting the bearing out a piece of cake. My budddy tried some fancy new expensive Snap-on bearing puller he had and it wouldnt work, the ECGS tool made it a breeze. Biggest PITA was getting the axle out of the diff.

 

Hadnt even occured to me as a possibility lol. Would higher psi help combat that?

 

Ok, my truck is at 107k and I replaced my CVs already with just over the counter ones From oreillys, torn boots made me swap (I cleaned and rebooted my OEMs since I’m sure they’re stronger)

How do you know you need to do this swap? I’m not worried about doing the swap, looks easy easy. Is this what is causing vibration at 45mph? I still need to take my truck in to the dealer for them to check the ujoints. I hope they have to replace some, if so I’m going to have them swap the rest and my carrier bearing while they’re in there

 

Depends what you're currently running. If you are already at 32 or so then I would stay put because you'll get poor wear pattern with a higher psi. For me personally I'll deal with a vibrate that goes away to gain good tread wear. But if you're in the upper 20s then yeah maybe going up woudlny hurt. Will depend what tire size you currently run and psi and how your tires are wearing. I went from running 265 70 16 at 32 psi to a 285 70 17 running 28psi. The larger the tire typically they lower pressure needed. So the reason there is a psi rating is they calculated a certain tire size at a certain psi will hold a certain volume of air. That volume of air required doesn't change but as you increase the container ( your tire) the pressure decreases.

 

You need a new seal. The spring is a part of the seal. Your seal is driven in too far. Outer part of the seal needs to sit flush with the housing. Another thing you can do to prevent future leaks is take some 1500 grit sand paper and polish the surface of the CV that the seal rides on.

 

Also depends on brand. I've heard alot of guys run mid 40s in psi on their good year duratrac.

 

You can get a 2" slip sch 40 or 80 pvc coupling to help drive the seal in.