Yet another Tacoma brake upgrade to Tundra

Yep, he showed me the two pieces he had cut off so that it would clear. I think I’m rubbing on the passenger side. I think a small pipe wrench will be perfect to fix that. I’m on to the Champion radiator today. Swinging by the dealership to go grab a thermostat.

 

I just had it done and I’m not having any problems with the ABS. He told me the part of the system that sends brake fluid to the front and rear brakes equally (so that the nose doesn’t dip on a hard brake) will learn itself due to the bigger brakes. But I’m not having any problems braking.

 

I wouldn’t worry about the rubbing from the caliper, you just need to persuade the shield a little bit and rotate the hub until you don’t hear anything anymore.

 

Anyone know or where to buy the banjo bolts or a part number

 

That's interesting. I've had Tundra brakes for about 7500 miles. So far so good for me.

It sounds like in that thread where Sonoran Steel is talking about potential liability is a theory they have and just covering their asses. They don't seem to state what that theory is or where they're actually coming from.

 

OK, Just got done installing the Tundra Calipers and I bled my brakes. Starting from the Rear Pass. to Rear Driver and then the Front Pass. to the Front Driver. My brake pedal feels soft. What's the deal??? A friend of mine told me I should get them vacuumed bled. Is that necessary?

 

Keep bleeding it. You might still have air.

 

That's what I'm thinking. My buddy has a vacuum bleeder so we're doing that this weekend.

 

Did you bleed the LSPV? The Load Sense Proportioning Valve. Often overlooked.

 

Nope. Didn't even occur to me until now.

 

Yep. You’re gonna want to do that. It’s near the rear axle.

 

Thanks. I'll give that a shot. I'll let you know if it all works out.

 

yeah but its not like you drained all your brake fluid and introduced air that far into the system. you really shouldn't have to bleed the LSPV

i have never done it and iv changed brake lines all around. both front calipers.

try bleeding them until new fluid comes out all around. now that i think about it when i did my calipers and lines i also changed out my fluid for new by bleeding them all around till fluid ran clean. never touched the LSPV.

anyway just my 2cents

 

when I did the tundra rotors and calipers my pedal never really got that factory feel again.... they stopped better but were kinda mushy as well

I just got used to them

 

Bleeding the PV gained me a lot of pedal feel after my swap. The pedal won’t be as firm as stock but after you get the air out it’ll stop better

 

I didn't do it right the first time but they are far superior to OEM.
I do have to bleed again as its discolored again.

Pass Rear,
Drivers Rear,
LSPV
Pass Front
Driver front.

@Speedytech7

 

obligatory "I know this post is old" but shouldn't matter, the sensor is on the hub, it detects when it stops moving altogether and will release the fluid pressure to accommodate.

I looked at mine, yay PA rust, the rubber cover crumbled off and so did most of the 10mm "nut" portion. I have to research replacement size bleeder valve.

I get the same still, I know there is air but I get no bubbles and all clean fluid. went through a 32oz bottle at least. tried normal, vacuum, 2-person; but meh, I give one pump and it's solid pedal after that.

I only had the lines off for about 2 minutes each. I connected the braided lines to the calipers first, then switched them out at the hard lines by the UCA. there must have been some air that made its way up.

also as part of research I've read with ABS it needs to cycle to help release any trapped air so that's my next step. i'll have to find some gravel or slick surface to force the ABS to engage.

for ABS the passenger front is actually the closest if you look at the hard lines. so RR/LR then LF > RF. there are only two hard lines "into" the ABS module from the MC, then 3 out (1 to the rear and 1 to each front)?

 

If you have access to a snapon reader with the right program you can activate your abs module while bleeding the brakes instead of trying to slam them to activate abs them bleeding quickly. Dealer can also do it with the normal cost of a brake bleed but that’s $

 

hmm, that's an option. uncle is an ASE self-employed with a few SnapOn scanners

 

So about the ABS. The spindles that I bought from Solo Motorsports do not accommodate for the ABS sensor. I do not have ABS and my brakes were working fine before I did the swap. With that being said, Do I still need to cycle the ABS system if it's disabled?