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Yet another Tacoma brake upgrade to Tundra

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by TheFed, Feb 11, 2015.

  1. Aug 18, 2016 at 1:24 PM
    #81
    synergy10

    synergy10 @synergy10.sd

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    Same setup I have.
     
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  2. Aug 18, 2016 at 2:46 PM
    #82
    bayareayota

    bayareayota Well-Known Member

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    you get the 13WL from napa?
     
  3. Aug 18, 2016 at 2:58 PM
    #83
    synergy10

    synergy10 @synergy10.sd

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    I don't think Delta did (it's in his build thread), but I got my set from Napa. Everything else I went with Toyota OEM parts.
     
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  4. Aug 18, 2016 at 3:14 PM
    #84
    BYJOSHCOOK

    BYJOSHCOOK Mr. Mojo Risin

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    He got the Amazon kit, comes with everything except the brake lines
     
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  5. Aug 18, 2016 at 8:55 PM
    #85
    bluebruin

    bluebruin Member

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    hello - just bought a 2001 Tacoma. Its my first Tacoma. I have mostly had jeeps up till now. The truck was just in the shop getting a timing belt. I asked them to check out the brakes that shudder and don't stop particularly well. They said I need:

    Front brake caliper set left/right
    Front brake pad set left/right
    turn font rotors
    turn rear brake drums
    clean and adjust rear shoes
    Inner and outer rear axle seals

    Its $950 and mostly labor. Got me thinking... why not upgrade? Found this thread. Good stuff. My questions are:

    1. does this upgrade really improve stopping power? I use my truck for work and hauling trailers with up to 3000lbs. If there is no major difference, I don't have much time these days with my new business and I might want to just get the work done with stock parts in the interest of time. Unless there is somebody in Denver on this forum I could pay to do it who's already done their tacoma.
    2. I am upgrading to 17" soft 8 rims so I can use jeep take off BFG mud tires. 255/75R17's. I assume this will fit inside the 17 rims ok since it fits 16" rims
    3. how much in parts does it cost to accomplish this upgrade?

    Thanks!
     
  6. Aug 25, 2016 at 8:45 PM
    #86
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    OME 2.5,Tundra 17s,Falken Wildpeak AT3W hitch w/ 7-pin, ARE cap, JVC HU w/BT, HID/LED lights
    If you routinely haul a trailer you will notice a difference. 255/75 are taller and .5" skinnier, you will definitely rub the frame at full turn (unless your rims are different backspace than stock). I do even with the lift.

    If you are mechanically inclined this can be done in an afternoon, having a friend handy with beer makes it more enjoyable :D
     
  7. Aug 29, 2016 at 11:15 AM
    #87
    240less

    240less Well-Known Member

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  8. Aug 29, 2016 at 11:20 AM
    #88
    MatthewMay1

    MatthewMay1 I'm an amateur professional.

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    I looked a week or so ago for someone else and I couldn't find the Amazon kit anymore
     
  9. Aug 29, 2016 at 11:26 AM
    #89
    Delta00

    Delta00 ᕕ( ᐛ )ᕗ

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    Check Build
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    #89
  10. Aug 29, 2016 at 11:32 AM
    #90
    MatthewMay1

    MatthewMay1 I'm an amateur professional.

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    #90
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  11. Aug 29, 2016 at 1:55 PM
    #91
    BYJOSHCOOK

    BYJOSHCOOK Mr. Mojo Risin

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    Fuck! The price went up like $30
     
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  12. Aug 29, 2016 at 10:58 PM
    #92
    bluebruin

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    ok.... I am about ready to do this upgrade. I need the extra braking power for trailer towing. I've asked some shops and they won't do it for insurance reasons since its not equipment that was intended to go on a tacoma, but rather a tundra...

    ebay kit with 13WL calipers, pads, rotors $312 and I guess I can send in my cores for a $80 refund.
    wheeler brake lines $72.50 +ship

    Is there anything else I need to order? Toyota brake fluid? Should I replace the fluid completely? Truck has 165k on it and who knows what brake work has been done. The guy was not much for maintenance I am finding...

    I did brake line replacement on my jeep YEARS ago and honestly don't remember what all was involved in bleeding them. Has anybody done a step by step Gen 1 bleeding post/tutorial? I was reading something in another post about 5 places to bleed not just the 4 corners...etc. pressure bleeder vs not. etc etc. I just want to make sure I do this right. I am driving my kids around in this Tacoma.

    Brakes make me nervous... I am "mechanically inclined" so to speak, but have not done much work on cars. I am looking for the best and most comprehensive step by step instructions to guide me. Would this work (see post #3)?: Thanks
     
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    #92
  13. Aug 29, 2016 at 11:02 PM
    #93
    bluebruin

    bluebruin Member

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    here is some bleeding info that looks helpful
     
  14. Aug 30, 2016 at 9:52 AM
    #94
    synergy10

    synergy10 @synergy10.sd

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    @bluebruin that's the link I posted up on the first page I also followed it to a tee from what I can remember (I did the upgrade a few years ago). Went with Napa calipers, Toyota pads/rotors and Wheeler's extended brake lines.

    This job practically consists of replacing old parts with new. The only thing you really need to "modify" are the dust shields. They need to be trimmed to clear the larger calipers and bent back (at least that's what I did) to clear the rotors.

    As far as bleeding the brakes go, I did all 5 locations and did a gravity bleed. Took a while but worked great for me. Just try to find the sequence for our trucks (most cars start with the farthest from the master cylinder to the closest). This is not always true so look it up and start bleeding.

    Oh and since you're finding out that the previous owner wasn't keeping up on maintenance, I say go ahead and replace as much brake fluid as you can. Siphon out the old brake fluid from the master cylinder, fill with new fluid then start bleeding. Nothing like looking at your brake master cylinder reservoir and seeing clear, clean brake fluid.
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2016
  15. Aug 30, 2016 at 7:57 PM
    #95
    bluebruin

    bluebruin Member

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    sounds good. I suppose, if I can't get them bleed well enough and end up with the dreaded soft pedal, I can take it into a shop and have them re-bleed them right if I can't get it to work completely. the shop is only about 1 mile from my house.... I could make it there on less than perfect brakes I guess.

    so, if I am going to do this, I might as well do the whole shebang. Front tundra upgrade, rear drums/shoes, and axles seals/bearings. fun fun.
    I am looking on Amazon, but don't see many great choices for replacing the rear drums. my local shop wants to turn them, for $110 in labor... so, I figure I might as well put that money towards just replacing them since I can't turn them. Does anybody have a good source for some good drums that fit and work well?

    And then there are the seals/bearings. I have a press so I could do the bearings *I think*. What do you think about this kit? Sounds like you definitely wanted the updated design of the seals to prevent future leaks.
    http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...ra-ultimate-rear-wheel-bearing-kit-w-abs.html

    thanks to all for the input and advice.
     
  16. Aug 30, 2016 at 7:59 PM
    #96
    bluebruin

    bluebruin Member

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    oh, and what do you think of replacing the shoes vs. re-using mine? is this something that is likely worn out if the drums need to be turned? My local shop only had put on the estimate to "clean" the shoes.
     
  17. Aug 30, 2016 at 8:26 PM
    #97
    Digiratus

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    If you aren't replacing the shoes, why would you want to put on new drums? :confused:
     
  18. Aug 30, 2016 at 9:10 PM
    #98
    bluebruin

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    to save money on replacing things that don't need to be replaced? the shop said the shoes only needed to be cleaned. just wondering. guess its probably not worth it if I will have it all torn apart. sorry, I am not much of a mechanic. I am just trying to figure this out as I go.
     
  19. Aug 30, 2016 at 9:25 PM
    #99
    Digiratus

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    Generally, the drums don't need turning or replacing before the brake shoes wear out. I was just curious why the shop wanted to turn them in the first place. Do you have high mileage on your truck? Like more than 200K? Rear brakes usually last a really long time unless they are ruined by leaking axle seals.
     
  20. Aug 30, 2016 at 10:28 PM
    #100
    bluebruin

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    don't know. they just said they need to be turned and shoes cleaned. yes, passenger side seal is bad and they said needs to be replaced. have not noticed a bunch of gear oil, but will check under there better tomorrow. I only have 165k miles. I am wondering if maybe I'll do the front brakes only to start, then see how it is. The reason I was thinking do it all, is if I am buying and replacing the brake fluid, maybe I don't want to do it in 2 stages since I would have to replace and bleed again later? Or, can I somehow replace the rear later and keep the brake fluid. i read I need 5 12oz bottles, and that adds up at $12-15 a bottle for toyota (since it has the right additives etc?) to be honest, doing seals, bearings, rear brakes, and front brakes at once is a bit much. I don't have that much time and money so maybe its better to do it in 2 stages and eat the cost of the fluid. Unless you can pinch off the lines and avoid doing the brake fluid again on the rear. I think I saw that somewhere when reading in here.
     

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