Yet another Tacoma brake upgrade to Tundra

do they make a single piston caliper for the 2015 Tacoma Pre Runner? I have a set of 17" rims that will not fit over the front brake calipers and just trying figure out what I could do.

 

Get different rims that fit. If you go to a smaller caliper you will go through brakes even faster. Or wheel spacers. Not a fan of spacers.

 

Anyone tried this with Toytec SS brake lines? I have them installed now and would like to have all parts in place before I start this upgrade. Here is the link !!


http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Front-brake-lines-_p_412.html

 

So does anyone still have issues with soft brakes and longer brake pedal travel? I just did my conversion to my 02 Taco. I went with the 13WL 231mm. Getting the air out was a pain in the butt. I am still noticing more travel and a much softer feel. Not the hard and short travel I was used to. I am going to do another bleed and I also have some steel braided front and rear brake lines on their way.

 

The brake lines will help. Plus the 13WL calipers / rotors are 231mm

 

Any updates? I just installed the red Callahan kit and was having issues. Some of which you experienced regarding more travel and loss of pressure. But as well as issues with the banjo bolts not fitting properly (from wheelers mind you, that everyone said to get) so I had to drill those out to get them to seat properly. Along with an extra trip to get more washers. Not sure if the bolts needed to be carefully drilled to a specific depth or what, but I had a helluva time getting them to seal. Had to use some Teflon tape too. Which I'm worried about it degrading and entering the system, but figured it would be fine being on the threads only..

So after all that I didnt get any pressure at all even after an extensive bleed, twice. If I pumped them, they would get pressure about and inch away from the floor it seemed. Then holding it there to test for sinking, it would slowly sink to the floor that inch or so I had! Assumed my master cylinder was bad so I just installed a new oem unit which I bench bled, then bled the rest of the system extensively again. Now I get a bit better pressure and no loss, but the pedal still travels with zero resistance/pressure, nearly to the floor before getting firm pressure. Just an inch or two higher than previously(so just a few inches from the floor now). So I'm wondering if there's still air in the calipers that wont come out(which I read a comment about and does kinda seem like this may be the issue right now).

Or if its the rear brakes needing adjusted. Because my rear brakes havent been in adjustment for quite some time now(figured I'd wait as I have also gotten all new rear drums, shoes and all the hardware to go with, but haven't installed that yet). And that some did have issues until they adjusted their rears (and bedded the fronts in as well) resulting in a much firmer pedal, as well as less travel (like the oem system performed)... But doesnt make sense to me as the rears are only a small percentage of your braking power compared to the front. So how could adjusting them make THAT much of a difference? Just doesnt seem like I'd gain all that much less pedal travel simply by adjusting the rears..

I plan to adjust the rears tomorrow anyways and see what happens.. But it seems like the amount of travel I have now should be able to be rectified by some means. Rather than taking a risky drive and hoping/waiting for them to perform properly... Again, the pedal feels like it has zero pressure going down until it's nearly to the floor, then its firm at that point and stays.. Feels like air to me.. But only place I could think of is the calipers themselves and its just not being forced out, to regain that quick pedal pressure. Because ive bled the hell out of everything. Even bled the lines at the master cylinder... Is there any way to be sure the calipers are properly bled before I continue with this and bed them in?

 

I'll be installing my brake kit in the morning. I'll share how it goes.

 

It sounds like your master cylinder wasn't blench bled all the way, or you have air somewhere between there and the calipers. I wouldn't assume that after changing the calipers there is air in the rear lines or you need to adjust the rear brakes.

When you installed the new MC, did you check the engagement of the push rod from the booster to the MC? It shouldn't really need to change, but it's a good thing to doublecheck anytime you separate the MC and booster.

If you're still having problems, my instinct would be to take it apart and start over - fully bench bleed of the MC, check pushrod depth, hook up brake lines, let the front calipers gravity bleed for an hour or so (keep the MC topped off), then pressure bleed the whole system from back to front.

 

Yeah all that was done. And the system was fully bled twice. Once pneumatically, then again manually. Zero air coming out. Went through two big bottles of fluid now. Pushrod is engaging normally. Its just zero pressure till nearly the bottom. I'm gonna go ahead and install my new rear brakes right now. Then see what happens.
Another thing to note, is when I was bleeding the rear, there seeemed to be more positive pressure and better pedal feel, but when moving on to the fronts, it seems to lose that after bleeding those.

 

Sigh.. Welp, scratch that idea for doing the rear brakes. Lol. One thing after another with this truck. What I get for neglecting her for so long I guess.

 

Because your brake cylinder appears to be dry, you may have a leaking rear axle seal.

 

Exactly. Sigh. Gonna see if my brother can do it for a price. But he has limited time just like me to do big jobs like that. Because bearings will be needing done now too. Had planned on getting it done eventually as ive gotten the fronts done recently. But now it has to be done. And I dont have the tools to do it. Brother has a press and lots of bearing tools. But still need the bearing shaft tool. No idea what shop has the capability or what they'd charge for it. But I looked into the process and it ain't fun, more so than the fronts.

 

You are right it's not a easy job. Are both sides bad? If you have a shop do the work make sure you check inside your drums throughout the warranty period to make sure they are not leaking. It is common for a mechanic to not replace the seal properly. Another reason it's not an easy job.

 

Idk. But I'd assume so or its on it's way one. Will be getting done either way. Sigh. Was all set to get this shit done and bed those tundra brakes in!

 

Doing the rear bearings isn't too tough, you just need a 20T or bigger press to make it easy. Build your own press fixture out of round or square tube, with a flange plate that bolts to the drum brake backing plate. This pipe fitting is the perfect size to press the bearing and retainers on and off (although I find it easier to just cut the retainers off - carefully): https://www.mcmaster.com/#45605k655/=1b7rpzs

Although having non-functional rear brakes will affect overall braking performance, that won't affect pedal travel, so I'm wondering if you still might have an issue with the braking system. Best to do the bearings first and then re-evaluate, I suppose.

 

Have you tried taking a vise grips to the brake lines? If you squeeze the line and all of a sudden your pedal is not sinking anymore, then that location is where your issue is. I found out that my rear drivers side drum brake cylinder was bad by using this method. But the post that I wrote that you are quoting, was written after this issue was resolved, so I was still getting a lot of brake travel. So after about a week, I noticed that the majority of the travel worked its way out. Before I installed the steel braided lines, I could already tell there was much improvement in the brake travel. After installing the steel lines, it improved even more. I haven't put the rear steel line on yet but my brakes are awesome and responsive. But definitely getting all the air out was a struggle.

 

Well, I'm a little embarrassed to admit that I have actually installed the calipers backwards. Lol. I swapped them and didnt even realize that they were side specific. So the bleeder valves are currently on the bottom when they need to be on the top! Never replaced calipers before so didnt cross my mind during install. But the calipers arent even stamped! So yeah I'll get to that and hopefully be able to get better pressure once the air comes out of the calipers. Lol. But it's gonna wait anyways until I get my rear axle bearings and seals replaced. Hopefully I can pull that off without a hitch. Big job and gotta find time to do it, let alone order the parts and press tool for it yet. I'll report back once I git r done and get back to the fronts.

 

At least it's an easy fix! Better than chasing brake gremlins around for a while...not that I know anything about that...

 

Welp, got the brakes all done.... After multiple issues. The banjo bolt on one side is STILL leaking. Anyone kniw if I could just get some oem tundra banjos from toyota, and if they'll fit the wheelers lines ok? I guess this Callahan kit didn't pair well with the wheelers bolts. Ugh.

But I also think I may have a booster problem. Ive replaced everything brake wise with the exception of the hard lines, and the booster. This includes the master cylinder which I did bench bleed. But what happens is, at cruising speed, with the rpms up, when I hit the brake pedal immediately after letting off the gas, its hard to push and brakes dont work very good. After about a second the pedal gets a lot softer and goes further down, then the brakes work as they should. If I'm coasting foot off the gas, then use the brakes, the pedal and brakes seem to work as they should. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks either. Kinda tested the check valve by just blowing/sucking on it, and seems to be working fine... Does this sound like an internal booster problem?

 

Did mine yesterday. Pretty simple process, basically take apart and put back together. Braking feels a lot more smooth.