Yotashop 2.7 engines worth the money?

Admittedly I just skimmed all the following posts, but I didn't see where you ever disclosed exactly what was wrong with the one you have, other than symptoms, not the 'why'.

I say before you drop all that coin on anything, let a professional give a proper evaluation of what is wrong and what is needed for correction.

It could be that a comparatively simple head swap with a fully refreshed head and valve assembly is all that's needed. Low compression that I saw you mention on testing may or may not be a ring issue. If you have burnt valves or a cracked head, traditional compression and leak down tests loose a lot of diagnostic accuracy.

http://www.cylinder-heads.com/ is a sample of outfits that source complete assemblies. I ran one of theirs on an S10 I4 quite successfully.

 

Vary good point. See these are the things I need to know and learn before I start this because I don't want it to take long or have tons of issues in the process.

But by remove the transmission do you mean just removing it from the engine or removing it from the whole truck? Because I'd prefer not to remove the trans from the truck but the trans relies on the engine and a mount, like it only mounts on the back sides near the drive shaft and makes a pivot point where it can tilt if not mounted to an engine. Maybe just stick a 2x4 in there to hold it up

 

So the back story is that I bought the truck back in 2011 and it always was low on power and I found low compression on 2 cylinders and pulled the head to find 2 burnt exhaust valves. So I had the head rebuilt and decked and valves adjusted. Reinstalled and it ran better but still low on power. After the head rebuild it developed blow by real bad and spits oil out of the filler cap when running. Compression test confirmed low on 3 cylinders. I decided to just drive it since I had no more time and money to invest in the bottom end.

Fastforeward to late last year

Started having a rough idle for about 10-20 seconds after start up after sitting for a few hours. Wouldn't happen if it was within an hour or two. I suspected a leaking fuel injector. I than noticed it was consuming coolant. So I started suspecting head gasket. Outside of the engine from the seam of the head down was wet with something stained the block. Did a block test and it barely changed from blue to a green not really even yellow at all. No oil in the coolant no coolant in the oil. Not burning oil at all I than did a compression test and got low on 1&2 and slightly higher on 3 and like 190psi on 4.
Ok so that's odd right? Spark plugs looked ok but #4 was kinda black
Well I borascoped the cylinders and found all cylinders to be pretty clean as if they were fuel washed or steam cleaned.
But cylinder 4 was coated in black sludge and wet inside.

So in the end it was consuming about 1.5 letters of water every 60 miles of driving and idling like a nova with a big cam.
It even hydrolocked on me one day so I finally parked it.

So I suspect a bad head gasket or more than likely a cracked head. But the bottom end is requiring a fresh set of rings and I'm just all together tired of this engine and want a fresh start.

I do have plans to test the fuel system and send out my injectors for cleaning. I'm going to go over everything. I want a bitchin motor that runs good. I'm tired of having no power. I know it's a 2.7 but Iv owned 2 other 2.7 tacomas and I know this engine has never been 100%
Heres cylinder 4heres what the other 3 look like here's the plug from cylinder 4

 

It's kind of basic really - pull the driveshaft(s), starter, clutch slave if you're manual, cross member, and get nasty with a jack, long ratchet extensions, pry bar, penetrating fluid, and possibly ratchet straps to help with the pulling while you shimmy shake it off. If you're 2wd it's probably not necessary, but I made a jig to support the transfer case on my trans:



It holds it way better with the strap and the particle board jig than the chain and metal pieces that bolt into place that come with it.

Tilt the engine on the hoist and try to get the top bell housing bolts off through the trans hole in the cab and don't forget the inspection plate on the bell housing!

You can get some info here even though it's not your exact setup:

 

You must have got a dud, I got over 200k running strong, seen em easily over 400k, you can always put in a 2rz haha!

 

Can I get some information on the Yota1 shop? I have a valve on Cylinder 3 that is stuck, burnt, or saying goodbye. Have been looking at complete engines for a turbo build.

I googled them and they didn’t have the 3RZ engine option but I’ll give them a call tomorrow.

 

https://209yota1.com/

They don't have a rebuilt 3rz on there website but they do them if you call or email them they will tell you

 

Talked to them today and once I get my ducks in a row I’m getting myself a new engine. I’m glad you posted this thread.

 

Yeah same here I need to get everything prepped and ready because the core exchange needs to be done in a timely manner. I would have loved to get the engine now to motivate me though

I have a sea doo I'm doing an engine swap currently for my step dad, I'll give that another couple weekends of work to be finished than hopefully it will be a little warmer so I can focus on the truck

What's wrong with your engine now? Is there no one closer to Texas who messes with Toyota engines?

 

Number 3 has something wrong with valves. Haven’t had time to get in a shop and I’m wanting to do a turbo build anyways.

I sold my Harley and now have nothing to mess with. I don’t believe in building something half cocked either.