YotaWerx Tuning Services and Development

I am having the same issue..I actually replaced my MAF sensor with no luck yet.

 

No loose connections or other dirty/fouled up wiring harness connections, or vacuum leaks? What code has it been giving you?

 

I did a scan and came up with P066014 and P010064

It stays off for a few days after I clear the code, then pops back up. Funny thing is I haven't cleared it this week and this morning it didn't show up.

To follow up, I cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner, tube, air filter, throttle body thingy, and checked all wires around the area. No luck with that, then I ordered a new MAF sensor, installed....3 days later engine light popped back up, same codes. Next thing i did was clean the MAF sensor in the SC itself with the CRC stuff, no luck. Unless directed in a different direction, I plan on calling Maggy and ordering the MAF sensor in the SC and maybe the breakout harness.

The truck runs great even with the check engine light on, weird.

 

There isn't a maf in the sc, there is an IAT sensor so you are reading air temps in the blower itself and not from the maf. I would check for air leaks behind the maf. Any air leaks can cause the maf fault, could be a pcv system leak or even an exhaust leak that is causing the engine to run outside of it's normal parameters.

 

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Usually when you clear codes on a vehicle there is a required drive cycle before it pops the check engine light again. What I do when I fix customers cars is I clear the codes then after the first drive cycle I go to "TEMPORARY" codes. If the repair did not fix the problem it would show right away. I was trying to look for the codes that posted but I think numbers are too many. its usuall just one letter and four numbers. Try taking a pic of the scan tool and send it to me directly. maybe I can help you out.

 

Thank you. Light came back on today on the way to work. Sorry for the poor picture quality.

 

The ACIS code is normal.

The MAF code is probably a vacuum leak. Check your PCV hoses first. Make sure they have hose clamps on them! Make sure all the hoses to the supercharger have clamps.

if that doesn’t fix the issue your intake system or the supercharger lid may be leaking vacuum after the MAF sensor.

 

It seems like a wiring issue to me. The connector might have been loose during the SC install. I went trough the wiring diagram of the engine. The ACIS and MAF has one wire that is common for the two. It fis the GREY wire. It is a feedback signal going to the ecm. You might want to inspect the connectors for loose connection on this wire on the ACIS and MAF.

 

The setup is actually a little different for the supercharger, I have the install guide here somewhere. I'll send it over to you so you can see what I mean.

 

PM'd you the install guide with an explanation @Mcbelen

Nonetheless, I'd check the aci harness connection with the cap for loose connection, or dirty connection, kinked wires, etc

 

Thank you all!!

I will check this weekend and report back.

 

Is anyone getting better MPG with this tune vs magnusons? I can tell how much mpg dropped since I’ve installed the SC. Maybe the Texas heat play a big role. I’m considering reverting back to stock and sell the SC. I can do 17mpg but idk about under 15.

 

If you drove it like you're not in a hurry and stay out of boost then MPGs shouldn't change much if at all since the Maggie has a bypass valve that stays open in high vacuum situations. So if you're getting way worse MPGs then try really focusing on your throttle control.

But of course, if you add boost then you have to add fuel. Worse MPGs is a guaranteed byproduct of that. No ifs, ands, or buts.

 

Only time I floor it is if I have to pass or am in a hurry, which is hardly, I have a pretty light foot.

Maybe it’s how bad magnuson tune is since it’s still gear hunts and effects mpg. Idk I’m just trying to hear some reviews.
I just don’t want to continue dumping money to find out. When I purchased the SC I was financially in a good spot and premium gas wasn’t an issue. That’s changed.

 

I can understand that. The driveability with the YW tune is much better than the Magnuson tune that I wouldn't be surprised if you got an increase in MPGs just by the better power delivery and shift logic.

With reasonable driving habits I'm averaging around 19-20 now since I've adjusted tire pressure on my E load ATs. But of course if I let it eat some then you can watch it tank, but that's a no brainer.

 

not sure what speed you do most of your driving at. If it is highway and over 65mph you will not get anywhere near the same mileage SC'd as you would NA. Here SC'd I get 21+ mpg if I keep it 65 max - I know when I tow and or use the skinny pedal the mpg is going to be reduced. Average 17 mpg towing (round trip average), and 20ish combined local street / city driving. NA mpg was higher but the truck was nut-less for power.

 

I only drove the Maggy tune for a few days before switching to YW, so I can’t compare MPG for you between tunes.

With the YW tune I get the same 18-19 mpg that I got pre-SC when I drive gently. When I’m having a lot of fun, I can easily drop it below 15. That’s not the tune’s fault, that’s totally on my driving.

 

I’d be happy with that kind of mpg. Lucky if I get 15. I was getting 17-18mpg pre-SC with just ovtune. I understand having a heavy foot will cause decrease.

I guess I have to think about this a little more because either 1. I remove the kit revert back to stock flash ovtune 2.0 87 octane and be happy with pumping regular with better shifting/mpg or 2. Try Yotawerx tune and see if I’m happy with the outcome. Only downfall will be still to pump 91 or higher and spend more.