YotaWerx Tuning Services and Development

Any concerns about this being too hard on our little motor?

 

From what I've seen so far, nothing that's jumped out at us, but this is why it's being tested and datalogs reviewed. It wouldn't be difficult to dial back the rails to the 9's seen on the stock rails though if needed.

 

Ya, I don’t think I’ll do the rails but I HAVE ordered the pulley.

Ya think we’re safe at 9 then? I mean, Magnuson was comfortable with the 6-7 they’re pushing with the stock setup right? I would think they’ve got plenty of cushion designed in.

 

I've yet to see anything indicating 9psi is unsafe.

The nice thing about that tvs1900 too is that it's oversized for this application, which means it's got room for accommodating additional mods for more power.

 

Hello!

I've had the Maggy/Yotawerx setup for about a week now and though I would chime in. My truck is currently in the 'learning' process and I am losing my mind..

The maggie tune sucks. I mean, you can barely even use the power for the SC. No low end, and a huge dead spot around 2-3k. At this point, I'm wondering why people get this done..

The Yotawerx Stryker+? WOW. Right out of the gate, it pulls hard from 1.5k RPM which is exactly what I've always wanted from my Tacoma. I've thought about selling this thing 50x because of the trash powerband, and finally I have the truck I have always wanted! City driving isn't great on gas, but I'm seeing a 2L/100km improvement on the highway. I barely have to touch the gas in any situation and it just pulls, even fully-loaded. Absolutely worth 1000$

And then..

A week into this wonderful experience, everything changes. No feeling of power at low speed, no obvious power improvement until 2.5k RPM. Shift response is garbage. I am losing my mind.

We did a full reset of the 'learning' module on my truck so I am praying that this is part of it, however, I need some reassurance, because the power band is dramatically different than it was last week. I've been through multiple tanks of gas, and it's even shifting differently. I am assuming this has something to do with Toyota's ECU. I want my truck from 1+ week ago!

 

This is quite odd to hear, and would be odd for any tune regardless of who made it. Nonetheless, a Learned Values reset (which it sounds like has been performed?) is the first recommendation for any sort of dramatically odd behavior.

How many miles on the truck since the flash? How many tanks of fuel? Or are you still on the first tank?

Was that Learned Values reset last performed at the time of flash, or was it performed an additional time as a follow up? If not and if it's reached the point where the tune would be considered "settled", the latter is definitely recommended, or even a reflash.

Nonetheless, these are ECUs with learning capabilities and they respond to several factors such as driving habits (although that wouldn't necessarily affect it to the level that it seems you're describing), atmospheric and barometric conditions (the ECU even goes off of the conditions from the prior drive cycle rather than the current one, which can be irritating in several scenarios), fuel/octane learning (some "bad" gas can support less ignition and prompt it to pull timing, which will absolutely result in perceived power being less), etc.

 

Added a couple additional questions to my above comment.

 

Thanks for the response! This is a 2021 TRD OR btw

About 500 miles since the flash, about a week ago. The learned reset was done during the Yotawerx flash. I drove 250 miles from A to B and it was great. Did about 30 miles on dirt, and it was great for most of it.

I took on new gas three times during the trip, about 2 full tanks in total. Would a way to possibly diagnose this is put a bottle of Seafoam or Octane boost in and see if that makes a difference?

The drive back from B to A was when I really noticed the issue. Before I left, I would barely touch the throttle and it would pull up hills without any downshifting. Now, even in town, I has to downshift to accelerate up moderate hills.

I hate this ECU.. if was possible to replace it with something aftermarket, i 100% would

 

Supposedly, Motec has a setup for that and is eye-wateringly expensive.

 

Well I have the unpopular belief that the transmission should be used when appropriate to enhance drivability, because there's a lot of people out there who don't want the transmission to ever do anything at all, and that can be carried to some extreme lengths.

All that said, I'd recommend two ways forward: you could continue to drive on it longer to see if it irons itself out again (effectively learning on its own as these ECUs really don't ever "stop" learning), or move forward with a learned values reset and consider a reflash at the same time for good measure.

I'd appreciate if you reached out to keep me updated on this regardless of how you elect to move forward. I can be reached on here, or via the YotaWerx social media or YW email. Feel free to loop-in the YotaWerx tuner who flashed your truck unless you're a customer who purchased the tune pack directly.

 

I am tempted.. sunk cost fallacy at play here..

 

I can't really argue with you on that.. but when it changes the characteristics of the vehicle so much, it's hard to be a proponent.

I will 100% reach out. My plan:

1. Give it 2 weeks to continue learning
2. Post-2 weeks, if no improvement, reflash/reset.

Thanks for the support!

 

I know a couple other folks who have said that. I'm looking forward to hearing about the changes if they go through with it.

 

@grooverider It might be worth checking the bypass valve, make sure it is moving freely. When my maggie was new, within only a couple days, I decided play with a vacuum pump and the bypass valve, and noticed that it did not move freely, and that it did not close completely. I lubed the one end with T-2, and worked the valve, and after that, the valve actuator needed less vac pressure to operate it. I think this means it closes faster too. I also adjusted it so it closes tightly, then adjusted it just a tiny bit from fully closing. BTW, elsewhere here, are persons suggesting to use the stop screw to adjust it. I found that has some special tamper-resistant head, and did not mess with that, I discovered that the mounting plate is slotted, so loosen three? bolts that hold the bracket to the SC, and rotate the bracket just a bit, till you can fit a 0.001 feeler gauge loosely in at the stop screw, then keep bumping the bracket the other way (toward open) till you get just a little drag on that feeler, then bump it just a tiny bit more, so the butterfly does not actually touch the casing, but is held by the setscrew. At least that is how I opted to do it.

So oil and adjust, I can tell you that the oil made a notable difference on mine, now with gentle acceleration, you feel the bypass open and close, feels a bit like shifting in and out of lock up. The gauge supports the observation.

Best of Luck!

 

How can you tell if it is closed competely?


I took at look at the valve and it does seem to be moving well. I checked the maggie install guide and there's nothing in there about adjusting this, which is interesting.


I don't feel qualified to adjust this on my own, so I may leave this for now and try a few other things first. Thinking back to how it's driving now, it's clearly not engaging boost at low RPM like it was initially.

 

@Freerdr17 doing 87mm pulley SC tow testing in the mountains on an extended trip, from mid-last week through the end of this week.

 

If it is moving freely, then this is not your problem, I wondered if yours was getting sticky, and maybe not opening like it should, and longer.

As for the adjustment, Maggy does not want you to adjust it, and I'm sure it is close. There could be a tiny gain in adjusting this extremely close, but again, this is not gong to solve your problem.

How many miles are on your truck? Does it burn oil? Do you have a catch can on your PCV line? Have you removed the cap from the Maggy reservoir, and verified that the pump is running and antifreeze is flowing rapidly through the inter-cooler system? Again I am just reaching for what could explain a deteriorating performance over the reasonable short time. Oil covered internal cooling fins, or hot air charge temps, due to lack of coolant flow.

I assume you do not have a boost gauge, that would tell a story.

 

Thanks for the response!

It's new.. 22k kms
Not sure about PCV line
I will check the res tomorrow

I was thinking about installing a boost gauge anyways.. but the fitting isn't installed yet :|

 

Some of the stuff that is going to be in the 87mm pulley tunes is making its way into the 90mm pulley tunes as mentioned before, which will primarily be perceived as drivability enhancements. This includes stuff like some additional smoothing of power delivery in some scenarios accompanied by some additional power that of course remains controllable, and some tweaks that I know the MT guys in particular will really enjoy, but is applicable to the AT side as well also, the cruise control light surging effect that a couple 2020+MY folks have reported is being addressed.

These will be free updates. Thanks as always for this community's support!

 

NICE!

This must mean the 87mm tune is getting closer!
I just installed the colder spark plugs today and the pulley will be here Friday.

Can anybody tell me the easiest way to swap out the pulley? And what was the cost of the 87mm tune again Marc?