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YumaTRD's Build

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by YumaTRD, Jan 17, 2011.

  1. Aug 26, 2012 at 1:13 PM
    #81
    YumaTRD

    YumaTRD [OP] The Church Of @ODNAREM San Diego Chapter 1904

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    David
    El Cajon, CA
    Vehicle:
    Solid Axle Yota
    Locked, Flat bed, 22R 5 speed, BFG KO2's
    I would also need uniball UCA's and extended 2.5 shocks to get the real benefit of the lowers. I leaning more to option 1 or 2 since it wont kill me as much and still make it a posibility to afford the regear by December
     
  2. Aug 26, 2012 at 1:16 PM
    #82
    PLC721

    PLC721 Well-Known Member

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    Kings, Toyos, Baja Designs, TC, SDHQ
    Hmm I like the fact that it's stronger than factory lol
     
  3. Aug 26, 2012 at 1:35 PM
    #83
    YumaTRD

    YumaTRD [OP] The Church Of @ODNAREM San Diego Chapter 1904

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    David
    El Cajon, CA
    Vehicle:
    Solid Axle Yota
    Locked, Flat bed, 22R 5 speed, BFG KO2's
    It surely is beefy... but i can get some Light Racing UCA's, fix my lowers and get a regear for around the same price. That will make my front setup stronger than stock rather than a bulletproof LCA and tin foil uppers.
     
  4. Sep 27, 2012 at 3:41 PM
    #84
    YumaTRD

    YumaTRD [OP] The Church Of @ODNAREM San Diego Chapter 1904

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    David
    El Cajon, CA
    Vehicle:
    Solid Axle Yota
    Locked, Flat bed, 22R 5 speed, BFG KO2's
    Went to U-fix-it this morning

    [​IMG]

    Replaced my stock size 5100's with extended 5100's.

    [​IMG]

    I was running a temporary spacer so they can work with the Allpro pack. The plan was to go with a 2.0 shock with resi but no manufacturer makes a 11" shock with 27"/16" colapsed sizes other than the extended 5100's. Most were 10" 25"/15" which doesnt work with my springs without potential damage to the shocks.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The shaft is thicker and come with thicker bushings on the extended 5100, really like the girth.

    [​IMG]

    Final install
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Full droop

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Sep 27, 2012 at 3:51 PM
    #85
    YumaTRD

    YumaTRD [OP] The Church Of @ODNAREM San Diego Chapter 1904

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    David
    El Cajon, CA
    Vehicle:
    Solid Axle Yota
    Locked, Flat bed, 22R 5 speed, BFG KO2's
    This bolt

    [​IMG]

    is less than a 2mm gap and spins freely. It is seized and I spent an hour trying to either tighten it or removing it. I am going to end up cutting it off or welding a wrench to remove it since its starting to strip.

    Other than that, I have some SS rear brake lines to install on our next mod day. No plans for future mods on the horizon at the moment
     
  6. Oct 2, 2012 at 10:20 AM
    #86
    dira1987

    dira1987 Well-Known Member

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    David
    Chandler AZ
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    Metal.
    I am having th exact same issue with my lcas. I just picked up a set of stock ones from bmoc and ive been waiting for the weather to cool down before i swap them out. Seemed like the cheapest and quickest solution i found. Im also waiting for some more uniball lca options to drop as well.

    Im pretty sure i saw you by asu the other day those 295s are mean what regear will you go to?
     
  7. Oct 2, 2012 at 10:31 AM
    #87
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Anthony
    San Diego, CA
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    when does yours clunk? i have a super annoying clunk when turning at low speeds....almost sounds like a bj shifting into place or something...anyways it really bugs me and it seems like most guys with spindles have this
     
  8. Oct 2, 2012 at 10:38 AM
    #88
    YumaTRD

    YumaTRD [OP] The Church Of @ODNAREM San Diego Chapter 1904

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    David
    El Cajon, CA
    Vehicle:
    Solid Axle Yota
    Locked, Flat bed, 22R 5 speed, BFG KO2's
    I'd go for a 4.10 regear but still debating if I should. I know I'll get better low end power and city gas mileage but I dont want to lose more highway MGP.
    I was also thinking of refurbishing some LCA's but I want to find the problem first before swaping parts.

    Yup, its at low speeds while turning. It does sound like a shift of a bolt or rubber bushing, rather than a metal on metal clunk.
     
  9. Oct 2, 2012 at 10:45 AM
    #89
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    and yours is coming from that bolt? its hard to tell what bolt that is....is it holding the bj into the adaptor?


    i always thought mine was the tie rod ends or something
     
  10. Oct 2, 2012 at 10:52 AM
    #90
    YumaTRD

    YumaTRD [OP] The Church Of @ODNAREM San Diego Chapter 1904

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    Locked, Flat bed, 22R 5 speed, BFG KO2's
    It's one of the two bolts that hold the spindle to the BJ adaptor. I got it torqued into spec on Saturday but it didnt fix the clunk sound while turning.

    I first thought it was a siezed LCA bolt because i have a bent alignment tab, but they stay in place when the suspension cycles. It may be our tie rods since they have to be installed upside down with the spindles.
     
  11. Oct 2, 2012 at 10:54 AM
    #91
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    i dont think thats the issue with mine...mine are double shear...i too have a bent tab and seized bolt...LOL

    my tie rods look fucked though
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Oct 2, 2012 at 10:56 AM
    #92
    lembowski

    lembowski Well-Known Member

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    Rolando, CA
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    Mine made the same noise at the same time before I guesseted my cam tabs. It came from ripping a few of them off :eek:
     
  13. Oct 2, 2012 at 11:08 AM
    #93
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    mines not even flat, its halway bent....haha and it comes from both sides. Its very loud at some points too, i dont even know where to start
     
  14. Oct 2, 2012 at 11:17 AM
    #94
    YumaTRD

    YumaTRD [OP] The Church Of @ODNAREM San Diego Chapter 1904

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    David
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    Vehicle:
    Solid Axle Yota
    Locked, Flat bed, 22R 5 speed, BFG KO2's
    XXXX made a thread about removing seized cam bolts and showed how the mounting sleeve got wore out. Since the clunk comes only while in motion, not just by turning while parked, I think it has to do with the cam bolts rather than tie rods for me
     
  15. Oct 2, 2012 at 11:22 AM
    #95
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    mine usually never clunks while parked....but at a stop light one time i was able to get it to clunk multiple times....it clunks then clunks back as you turn the other way
     
  16. Dec 6, 2012 at 6:45 PM
    #96
    PLC721

    PLC721 Well-Known Member

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    2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmax ProKiller
    Kings, Toyos, Baja Designs, TC, SDHQ
    was there a noticeable difference with the super bumps front bumpstops?
     
  17. Dec 6, 2012 at 6:56 PM
    #97
    YumaTRD

    YumaTRD [OP] The Church Of @ODNAREM San Diego Chapter 1904

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    David
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    Solid Axle Yota
    Locked, Flat bed, 22R 5 speed, BFG KO2's
    Yes there was. Dali and I noticed the smoother bump absorbtion the first time we tried then in the dirt. For $50 its worth the mod
     
  18. Dec 6, 2012 at 7:12 PM
    #98
    PLC721

    PLC721 Well-Known Member

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    Kings, Toyos, Baja Designs, TC, SDHQ
    Thanks for the input!
     
  19. Dec 6, 2012 at 7:52 PM
    #99
    YumaTRD

    YumaTRD [OP] The Church Of @ODNAREM San Diego Chapter 1904

    Joined:
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    David
    El Cajon, CA
    Vehicle:
    Solid Axle Yota
    Locked, Flat bed, 22R 5 speed, BFG KO2's
    I was thinking about getting the rears too since they're instock. I have the daystar that are like your pyramids but made of foam right now. Since the rear cost over $100, IDK if they are worth the improvement over the daystars.



    I got my projectors in today. I was excited but then realized they forgot to send out my amber Halo LEDS. Kinda bummed cuz I wanted to install them this weekend
     
  20. Dec 6, 2012 at 8:06 PM
    #100
    PLC721

    PLC721 Well-Known Member

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    Chandler, Az
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    Kings, Toyos, Baja Designs, TC, SDHQ

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