Zam15's Adventure Build

Ugh...that it is exactly what I said last year the first time I saw the photos buddy...you DO NOT need to go 4 link they just need to learn some basic fuckin' 3 link set up ! That panhard is clearly too damn short which creates too much lateral movement and the upper CO mounts are too narrow too They should give you a 100% refund and let you take it somewhere else !

That is why I was saying you should have had them cycle it completely in front of you so you could see the lateral shift I was describing. I would also make them articulate it 100% in front of you with the CO's in place w/ coils on them and the tires on it too because I swear your tires are going to be dry humping those CO's like an 8th grader rubbing one out looking at a Katy Perry poster...

Here is mine see how the upper mount is outside the frame and the lower mount is right on the back of the drum so my panhard is probably two feet longer than yours.


Really sorry you are dealing with this shit that is incredibly basic design shit that other shops knock out in 2-4 weeks :/

Do you want to meet up and check mine out so you can see exactly what you need to look for ? At this point I think you need to start dictating to them how it is designed ...

 

He got a complimentary stereo theft earlier too.

 

I'll buy those 16" coilovers if you go to 18s

 

So this is what is what going back to square one looks like

 

Well, I don't have have the Tacoma back yet but it still does not stop me from planning and having a stockpile of parts for future mods..

Just picked up a Factor 55 FlatLink and Custom Splice ARB Offset Hawse Fairlead

P.S. Shout out to Custom Splice for amazing customer service, the first hawse fairlead arrived damaged and they immediately responded and sent out a replacement. If anyone is in the market I would give them a look.

 

this build makes me cry.

 

Pretty sure my alcohol consumption has gone up...

 

Maybe I missed it, why didn't they redo the panhard bar and make it the proper length. That will correct the issues with the rear end pulling too much

 

like evanflow said, panhard was too short, another foot and it would have been pretty cherry it seems.

 

Their are other factors that could affect that. 1st gens don't have near as much room as second gens do for out board shocks (especially if you're running a stock width rear end). So depending on how much they notched the frame rails could also affect how much room they have for the rear end to move side to side. You're the first gen 3 link expert so I'm sure you've considered the room available outside the frame rails to the diameter of coilovers as well as the proper angle to mount the panhard bar at to properly bias the movement of the rear end. I'm not really a 1st gen guy so I haven't paid much attention to them

 

hes running a 66 wms 9" so hes got some room for 2.5s but OD on 2.5 coils with springs is like 5" i think so itll take a chunk of frame rail out for sure. at articulation either side wouldnt make it past 5" i dont think cause then the coilwould rub tire. only way to solve this is stuff that coilover to the back of the cab and away from the tire. the TG 3 link is wonky, 2 of our friends crawlers have it and the geometry is all wrong, full flex the tire is pointed almost 45* to the frame. OP has the right idea but just need to rethink it a little.

 

I asked him to have the shop fully flex it on the lift so he could see if the tires would hit the CO's, the problem is that they are doing rock crawler style links and putting the CO on the axle which is worst case scenario for tire clearance. If they did flat links and moved the CO out onto the link the potential tire rub prob is solved, no need to go into the cab.

 

thats what i was saying, just how you have yours right up against the cab, you still rub a tad probably?

 

I have zero rub on the CO and I even have piggy backs BUT the huge difference is that I have different links and my CO's are out on the links way forward.

Derek's CO's are on the axle because they are doing rock crawler style tube links, with the CO's on the axle I have no idea how that big of a tire will ever clear the CO at full articulation ? The weird thing to me the whole time about how they have been setting up Derek's truck is that it looks like a hybrid of a crawler with a "desert" style bed cage...and the location of the CO's and the angle of the dangle on the CO just never seemed right either ?

They would have to do a true crawler set up and notch the hell out of the frame and have the CO's like @JLee did his for the tires to clear the CO's stuffed :

 

exactly. i think if they did another tube under the lower link to give a curve to it then plate the outside itll give some beef if he ever comes down on it, but also gives strength for him to move the CO out of the way from the tire and all the way up against the cab, then he will add more travel numbers. panhard needs to be redone anyway, and i think the upper link will need to be lengthened if he gets more travel depending how long it is now

 

See how far forward the CO is from the tire when the CO is out on the link :

 

At least everyone here understands.

The way it was being done with that short of a panhard they would have to notch the frame a good amount, probably to the point where you would be getting to the gas tank and severally weakening the frame. To make it work like that you'd have located the shock directly above the Axle behind the gas tank where they could notch the frame without any problem. (see attached)

I told them that a longer panhard and mounting the shocks on trailing arms closer to the cab wood eliminate most of the side-to-side movement and it would have greater clearance and would likely have fixed the issues.

They said trailing arms would not be appropriate as the truck is too heavy also they would not be able to spring and tune the coilovers correctly to work. Flat out "couldn't make it work"

 

They said trailing arms would not be appropriate as the truck is too heavy and they would not be able to spring and tune the coilovers correctly to work. Flat out "couldn't make it work"

Bro...get your truck out of there and get your money back and run ...how the F can they say that ? tons of people have 3 or 4 link Taco's and have no issues with proper spring rate or valving !?

 

can make anything work, but the longer panhard and CO on the axle is the proven system on countless trucks, to me, its your truck and your paying for it so you should have it done the way you want. but if they are telling you it wont work then you should find another shop that knows what they are doing. cant stand shops that think they know better when there is clear proven info of a better way then end up screwing the customer cause they were wrong.