Zam15's Adventure Build

The beast is waking up from its long slumber!








With the extra track width, clearance, and 35s the truck is massive... Going to be fun to park.

 

whats the specs on your axle? any more pictures?

 

I'll try to dig up the order form from the previous owner, has a full breakdown from Currie of all the specs/hardware. Don't believe they make this specific housing anymore, most places switched to fully fabbed housings by now. I didn't want to spend $7K on a new fabbed axle just because it looked cool.

He only ran the race truck a few times and blew the engine and it sat, then he had kids. Then I ended up getting great deal on an axle lol

 

im gonna run a burg housing and was looking at running other options than a full floater

 

Taco Tuesday update! Getting close! Just waiting on a pair of Northstar batteries to arrive before we can fire her up! I'll likely get her for a few days for some shake down runs. Then back to the shop to finish up paint, rear bumper and a several other little items.

 

Batteries are in! Now the shop is trying to track down an electrical gremlins so they can fire the thing up! That's always the fun part... Hopefully with some luck she'll be up and running tomorrow!

Cover is on the fuel tanks and it looks way cleaner now! I'll need to take her on a nice trip to the car was once she's mobile

 

am i high or is there no upper shock mounts to the towers

 

If you zoom in you’ll see that they are covered.

 

ahhh si si

 

Truck got so close today! Drove out of the shop under its own power today, they also got the alignment done. Only issue is that with the Tundra discs up front and the explorer discs out back it's maxing out the stock Tacoma master cylinder. They're going to look at upgrading to a newer Tundra master cylinder help push the brakes.



Also up front with the 35" there will need to be some chopping.

 

@Zam15

Put a 2lb residual valve on the rear brake line and ditch the LSPV if you haven't.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-13783/overview/


I have a full floater Diamond using D44 hubs and large single piston calipers and had the same symtoms as you at first but got a ton better with the 2lb valve. I would try that before replacing the master cylinder.

 

Yea, they swapped in a 2lb and even gave the 10lb a shot. It helped but not enough. Also LSPV is gone. Eventually want to fully delete ABS. Swap in another battery or something in the freed up space.

 

Ditch the ABS now before you do anything else. It is just one more thing to catch and air bubble and mask the root cause of bad pedal pressure.

I just swapped tundra's on the front of mine and can get decent pedal throw out of it. I haven't driven it yet but hope to get it running soon.

 

Well, luckily it looks like there are plenty of options out there.

Found several "Toyota Booster to GM Master Cylinder" mods

This master cylinder has a 1.25" bore.

Thoughts? May float this by the shop. Seems like it would offer a serious upgrade.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyota-booster-to-gm-master-cylinder.html

 

I got to drive my truck with the Tundra fronts and D44 metric calipers in the rears. Truck off the pedal gets hard at 80% of travel, Truck running it never gets hard before running out of throw. I have a 2lb residual valve on the rear circuit with an manual adjuster and with it all the way out still lock the rears way before the fronts. I have another 2lb valve on the way to add to the fronts to see if that makes up for the smaller MC bore.

Also bigger isn't always better with MC bores. I've done a ton of testing with race cars and different sized bores and a 1/16 (.0625) size difference makes a huge difference in braking performance.

Plus you have the newer booster with only 2 bolts and that adapter won't work.

 

Yea, I'll let the shop decide what to do next. There are a variety of combos that people run. T100 booster w/GM Master seems to be like a winner in a lot of cases.

 

It might just be air in the front circuit still. But I air bled then pedal pumped. Still shit brakes so I swapped MC (Tacoma, same) I had and same shit. I will put some miles on it and see if they improve or maybe another round of manual bleeding. FYI I don't have ABS, never had it in either trucks.

 

So brake master cylinder got swapped out, deleted the ABS, brake proportioning valve added, bled the system several times and now she stops with no problem!

She's home safe in the driveway for the first time in a long time! She will make a few return trips to dial her in and tighten everything down. Will eventually have rear bumper made she is set.

 

What master cylinder did they put in?