Zero Undercoating!

I have an Infiniti that has undercoating from the factory. At least I assume it's from the factory as I didn't pay extra for anything unless the dealership just threw it in for free.

Overall the car looks great. I'm under it several times a year and no rust anywhere and it's a 2010. That is unless the rust is hiding under the undercoating.

 

I am no expert in undercoating, the last car I had undercoated was probably 30 years ago. I have a feeling that there is good undercoating and bad undercoating. I also believe that not every vehicle needs it. I had a BMW that was clean after 10 years (body rusted out though). I would not hesitate to undercoat a Tacoma, rust seems to be their Achilles heel.

If I remember correctly, the 80's pickup had rust issues all over the place. the famous 2 piece pickup bed with a gob caulk... that was not one of their better ideas. That was the truck that got me wanting a Toyota pickup, I loved the one in back to the future. by the time I got around to getting one it was a 91 and the two piece bed was gone.

Carl

 

Someone posted this on another thread. I cannot attest to these guys in particular, but most folks who live in severe weather environments swear by
oil spraying in general. I see they have a DYI kit.

Rotten - how are the Krown shops? My problem with them is they aren't close by.

http://nhoilundercoating.com/Do_it_yourself_kit.html

 

Shame on me for going by the thread title of 'Zero Undercoating'

AFAIK this doesn't translate to 'unpainted frame'. But I've been wrong at least once a day for a long time.

 

My Z cars and my Mazdas did have some factory treatment, so I understand what you are talking about. While it's a rust preventative for sure, it's not the traditional 'tar like' undercoat that is often applied when we think of the term 'undercoating'. The stuff you speak of is well bonded to the metal, and hard as a rock! Toyota would do well to use that in key places prior to assembly.

In fact, my '90 Z had lots of cosmoline underhood as a protectant while shipping. Didn't care for that too much, as it made the bay more difficult to have look nice.

 

My plan is to do it myself... for the frame. I was planning on using POR-15 and then paint over it. Since POR-15 is not UV resistant, you must coat over it with something that is.

I was thinking of doing it immediately after getting the truck to avoid dirt to build up and then have to spend more time cleaning stuff out.

 

Haven't used them yet, but by doing rust prevention research on here I found a few people recommending them. They have the oil type spray that everyone says won't collect moisture. Will report back after I have it done (will be soon before winter)

 

that will be one rock solid frame. I have read others on these forums who did the same thing. they ended up only painting the outside of the frame where the sun could hit it, the rest they left with POR-15.

 

Not sure why you'd have a UV resistance need for the frame area, unless you park upside down a lot.

However, you might look into the encapsulator (what POR-15 is) from www.monstliner.com

I think it can be left plain.

 

Theoretically, just about anything works. The reason they seldom do, is workmanship and the idea you can treat metal just once. Sloppy workmanship clogs drain holes and if it hardens and cracks, it actually promotes rust. That 's why you only use stuff that must be reapplied every year and you do it yourself. When you store a motor, you fog the inside with oil because it runs and coats with the help of gravity to reach areas you normally could not after assembly in enclosed areas. But like you motor oil, you still have to reapply it as it does wash away eventually.

 

I have painted a few things with just POR-15 and leaving it outside, unprotected, gives it a dull/cloudy look over time (even if not directly exposed to the sun). So best to coat it with some paint that will hold and look great.

I will take a look at that encapsulator. Thank you for the link.

 

www.monstaliner.com

Spelled it wrong in the first link. Sorry.

 

Long lasting coatings will be waxy, which then you should read the threads about removing and cleaning that stuff off, and the dirt it collects.

I take the boat/Marine approach. A light, water displacing oil. It only takes a minute or two to go around the truck and spray everything. Easily cleaned off, easily applied, displaces water, electrical safe. If it collects dirt, once again it's easily cleaned off for reapplication.

My process is every couple months, I go around the truck with Marine Simple Green, rinse, then spray CRC 6-56 on metal, and 303 on the rubber/plastics.

I've been planning to pick up a six pack of 4oz POR-15 cans. I've read that you want to use the whole can once you open it, so you don't want a huge can unless you plan to knock out the entire frame in one sitting.
For me, I'm starting to get a little rust around welds.
My plan there is since it's an encapsulator, and actually prefers a little rust to grab onto, just get a fresh stainless brush from the welding area at the Depot, brush the weld area, wipe off with acetone, apply the POR-15 with a small brush. Once it's cured, hit it with some chassis black spray paint, let cure, then reapply CRC.

 

@DeTako We'll probably meet up at some point to cruise the Eglin range, then you can check out my truck and judge for yourself.

 

Too bad he doesn't have any cool stories.

 

After your careful work, doesn't seem like CRC would be needed (in those areas) again. Encapsulated is pretty much it, no?

 

Dude! Solid advice... Thank you!

 

At least the new Chevy trucks dip or spray their frames before assembling with a black waxy substance.

 

Has anyone noticed that there's no more radio antenna.