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Ziebart vs. Krown vs. Fluid Film

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by fgeorge097, Aug 21, 2018.

  1. Aug 24, 2018 at 10:37 AM
    #61
    psmura

    psmura Well-Known Member

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    Will do, thanks for the advice :thumbsup:. The sales talk will most likely be directed at how they can't believe how little rust is on the truck for being 7 years old.

    I guess if a Structural Engineer like yourself shows up I may be out of a sale that day.

    Any others out there that actually live in the rust belt with some real world input for this guy?
     
    koditten likes this.
  2. Aug 24, 2018 at 11:57 AM
    #62
    sorgon82

    sorgon82 wanna go for a rip bud

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    Krown if your going to pay someone. Fluid film for diy. Ive fluid filmed mine in the driveway every fall for 3 years and no rust showing up. I live in Ontario Canada where the road salt is horrendous. Made swapping out my suspension very easy
     
  3. Aug 24, 2018 at 12:02 PM
    #63
    fgeorge097

    fgeorge097 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm leaning towards Krown because the cheapest fluid film undercoater I can find in my area is $200, and I know fluid film should be done twice a year. Krown is $150/year.

    Any potential complications that could arise with the Krown?

    Am I OK to go off-roading with the Krown applied?
     
  4. Aug 24, 2018 at 12:04 PM
    #64
    boynoyce

    boynoyce .

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    Tacomaworld is a daily reminder of why I purchase new vehicles....and keep them till they are ready for the scrap yard....lol
     
    over60, Stocklocker and stun gun like this.
  5. Aug 24, 2018 at 2:56 PM
    #65
    lynyrd3

    lynyrd3 STRENGTH DETERMINATION MERCILESS FOREVER

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    Bilstein 6112s top setting ,Total Chaos UCAs ,1/4" top plate spacer driver side ,SS extended brake lines ,Old Man Emu Medium Duty Dakar leaf springs with AAL,OME carrier bearing shim , Bilstein 5125s for 2-3” of lift in rear ,Timbren SES bump stops , SS extended brake lines rear , Toytec dif drop , Hayden high performance transmission fluid cooler,aFe pro dry air filter .Baja amber driving combo ditch lights , Devil horns by Andres ,Weathertecs floor protector, American Racing wheels Baja 17x8,4.5 BS , 285/70 Falken Wildpeaks AT/3W .Body Armor rear bumper . Extra D rings in bed ,Blue sea fuse block and 100amp breaker ,HomerTaco custom grill in Super White , TRD radiator cap ,Birddawg Industries rear view mirror riser bracket ,Coverking NeoSupreme Mossy Oak seat covers , Paranoid Fabrications fuse /relay holder Painted pinch weld.Shorty antenna ,HVAC knob mod ,LED dome and map lights , Tri Fold bed cover ,UltraGauge ,Morimoto XB LED fog lights ,Energy Suspension poly body bushings and sway bar bushings ! Geartech Customs splash guards ,Salex center console organizer . Mobtown tailgate cap ,tailgate anti theft mod .X-Mat sound deadening/insulation cab floor . Mobtown weld on rock sliders 0* with kickout Raptor lined . ,NEW frame courtesy of Toyota !
    It has arrived . Quick shipping !C24FFAF8-2A54-40B9-8809-C7A987968066.jpg C24FFAF8-2A54-40B9-8809-C7A987968066.jpg
     
    psmura and Spare Parts like this.
  6. Aug 24, 2018 at 2:57 PM
    #66
    psmura

    psmura Well-Known Member

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    How much for a case??
     
    lynyrd3[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Aug 24, 2018 at 3:04 PM
    #67
    lynyrd3

    lynyrd3 STRENGTH DETERMINATION MERCILESS FOREVER

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    49.99 free shipping ,just ordered it Wednesday evening!
     
  8. Aug 24, 2018 at 6:43 PM
    #68
    fgeorge097

    fgeorge097 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Do we think it is necessary to drill holes in the doors and spray inside the doors panels, or should just the undercarriage be sufficient?
     
  9. Aug 24, 2018 at 6:47 PM
    #69
    Spare Parts

    Spare Parts Well-Known Member

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    I thought I read the 3rd gen already had holes to use.
     
  10. Aug 24, 2018 at 7:25 PM
    #70
    Lawfarin

    Lawfarin Who me?

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    Ziebart you pay once and they spray it (spot touch) every year for free I believe.

    A lot of places that spray a lithium based product in the door jambs you just stick a small wand in the drain holes and spray away. No need to drill holes
     
  11. Aug 24, 2018 at 7:43 PM
    #71
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    I just did my truck with FF. I bought a gallon can. I picked up an under coating spraying kit for applying it. It worked great! The kit comes with flexible nozzles for getting up in the hard to reach places.

    Like others said, it does have a bad smell. It reminds me of a cat litter box that is 3 days past being cleaned. The smell did not last long.
     
  12. Aug 25, 2018 at 11:57 AM
    #72
    TacoManTaco

    TacoManTaco Well-Known Member

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    I'm interested in this thread too. I was going to go to get my 2018 Krown'ed. Aside from them drilling holes in the doors, any negative consequences that may come from the Krown? All the threads I've read says the Fluid Film attracts all sorts of grime/dirt from offroading...will I be OK with an annual professional Krown application, and weekly offroading trips? I live in the Northeast so plenty of salts.
     
  13. Aug 25, 2018 at 12:22 PM
    #73
    Petrol

    Petrol Well-Known Member

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    There's nothing mysterious about the way ferrous metals rust. As long as we make things out of steel and other iron alloys, we will be dealing with rust. The only way to slow the rusting process is to prevent oxygen and water from reaching the surface of that iron alloy (or attempt to prevent oxygen and water from reaching the surface).
    Paints, coatings, plating, oils, grease, whatever are all just ways to keep oxygen away from the surface you're tying to protect. Some work better than others, some are less expensive than others but none of them are perfect. The only way to absolutely prevent rust is to make the item out of something that will not rust in the first place (aluminum, brass, plastic, zinc, etc. )

    We still predominately use steel to make cars and trucks because steel is fairly strong, fairly light for its strength and relatively inexpensive. Ideally all of the steel components would be coated with some type of sealant immediately after being fabricated and before they were assembled into the completed vehicle. That would be prohibitively expensive and probably not worth it in terms of the life span of the entire vehicle.

    The next best option would be to seal as much of that steel as soon as possible after the vehicle is assembled but before it has been exposed to a lot of air and water. And it would be helpful if those coatings lasted as long as the components they were protecting.

    About the best we can do as consumers is to coat as much of the bare steel as possible as SOON as possible when we get a new vehicle. Even that has flaws because the steel has already been exposed to oxygen but that's about the best we can hope for.
     
    Rick111 and lynyrd3 like this.
  14. Aug 25, 2018 at 1:56 PM
    #74
    Wolff

    Wolff Member

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    No Stickers
  15. Feb 8, 2020 at 11:18 AM
    #75
    Gp_moto

    Gp_moto Well-Known Member

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    3" lift, 33" wheels
    https://youtu.be/lyWHF4NoNVk
     
    Tacowin1013 likes this.
  16. Feb 8, 2020 at 12:31 PM
    #76
    Tacowin1013

    Tacowin1013 Well-Known Member

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    I've used both FF and CRC---both have their places in treatment. CRC for the more beaten areas and FF for the hard to get to and areas that need to creep
     
    Big tall dave likes this.
  17. Feb 8, 2020 at 1:31 PM
    #77
    Rick111

    Rick111 Well-Known Member

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    ARE Z series cap w/Bedrug
    When the truck was new I hand wire brushed the weld joints on the frame and suspension parts where the factory paint flaked off and the raw metal was beginning to corrode, then used rattle can Rustoleum. After that I sprayed the red and runny (red cap) Rust Check ‘Rust Inhibitor’ inside or on the frame, lower control arms, differentials, drivetrain supports, suspension and gas tank mounts, stamped body joints, rocker panels, engine compartment, battery tray, body mounts, hood, doors, wheel wells, taillight support structures, tailgate, etc... Every nook and cranny I could find. Once the excess fluid ran off and dried up I sprayed the waxy (green cap) Rust Check ‘Coat and Protect’ over everything. It looks new underneath. The problem with this method is it requires effort, it’s messy, and the Rust Check has to be reapplied occasionally after a good cleaning. To me it’s worth the effort.

    BD2FEEE5-B8EC-4D05-BCF0-746EB8C90E82.jpg
     
  18. Feb 8, 2020 at 1:52 PM
    #78
    5nahalf

    5nahalf I build dumb things

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    To get the doors you can just take off the door panel, or spray it into the drain holes on the bottom of the doors.
    If you want to get the rocker panels, there are rubber plugs all along the rocker that you can remove to spray in there.

    Pretty much just look under the truck, any rubber plug comes out and you can spray in there. Some of the plugs (mainly the big ones) dont really lead anywhere though, there are a few big ones under the truck that just lead you to the carpet inside the truck.
     
    Rick111 and Tacowin1013 like this.
  19. Feb 8, 2020 at 1:53 PM
    #79
    Tacowin1013

    Tacowin1013 Well-Known Member

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    I'm always hesitant to spray up the drain holes in the doors as to not plug them up, otherwise it won't drain right?
     
  20. Feb 8, 2020 at 1:55 PM
    #80
    5nahalf

    5nahalf I build dumb things

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    You can always just take a pipe cleaner and put it through the hole to clear it out.
    I think the best way would be to pull off the door panel to spray in there.
     
    Rick111 and Tacowin1013[QUOTED] like this.

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