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Zuk on 38's

Discussion in 'Other Builds' started by Tan Zuk, Mar 4, 2012.

  1. Mar 6, 2012 at 11:20 AM
    #41
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    :wave:If there is any interest with the vehicle peeking in on the PS Front Panel pic let me know.:wave:

    This is another build and can post a couple of pics and stats
     
  2. Mar 6, 2012 at 11:22 AM
    #42
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    I had an 8” drop for my steering. This ended up being a 13 degree drag link angle. The Rig will see mostly street use as you know and that much angle would be way too much.

    Here was the solution I came up with.

    1” drop FJ80 Steering Box
    Box DS Frame Rail 1/4x5x24 Plate top, bottom, both sides
    TG Drop Pitman Arm
    4” Custom Extended Arm
    TG 6 Shooters
    Anti-Rotation Deflection Bracket

    With these mods I was able to achieve a 5 degree Drag Link and Panhard bar angle. This was now a safe, clean and expectable mod. IMHO

    This is a closer view of the Extension and the Anti-Rotation Deflection Bracket and in different views to give a better perspective. I believe that I have got them clearanced so there will not be any interference. I will have to start cycling the suspension just to double check.

    The 6 Shooter arm added to the Extension will be Tig welded by a Pro down the street. The welds will be smoothed out on the bottom for the
    Anti-Rotation Deflection Bracket mouning surface. This gets bolted in place with a 9/16 Grade 8 bolt on the arm and (2) ½ Grade 8 socket head bolts on the ears. There will be 2 additional 90 degree gussets welded to the bottom side for piece of mind.


    I got this done on Friday thought I would share some pics.


    Marked View

    [​IMG]



    Front View

    [​IMG]



    Side View

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Mar 6, 2012 at 11:26 AM
    #43
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    Here is some info on the rear 3” extension:

    Thought this needed to be added first. It takes quite a while to save money and build your new project as you all know. With the economy being so bad and merchants closing down this is what happened to me.

    I was buying parts as a group front end first which included some 4.5 Lift Rear Rubicon YJ’s for the front. I got the front suspension in and was going to order parts for the rear. To my surprise Rubicon was under restructure and no one new if or when they were going to be offering parts again.

    That really knocked the wind out of the build until I could get a rear set of springs. After looking at what the aftermarket had to offer the decision was to have a custom set made. They did a good job and got them to me on time. The order was for a pair of 4.5 Lift Springs center pinned. When I went to in stall them they were not the same amount of lift as the fronts. (Just another snag that I will use it as a positive) It will be less stiff in the back know.

    It all worked out in the end I just had to make some adjustments in the length of the new rear shackle mounts and some added ¼ plate for structure support.

    The pics are marked in detail.

    Rear Front Mount Marked

    [​IMG]


    Back Side Rear Front Mount

    [​IMG]




    Inside View Rear Mount

    [​IMG]




    Back View Rear Mount

    [​IMG]




    Outside View Rear Mount

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Mar 6, 2012 at 11:26 AM
    #44
    TheMrGExperience

    TheMrGExperience Because Tacos are too mainstream...and Im poor.

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    Vehicle:
    01 GMC Sierra z85 4x4 4.8L RCLB
    Debadged, 4x6 to 6x9 rear speaker conversion
    why did you choose to put a filter for each individual piston?
     
  5. Mar 6, 2012 at 11:31 AM
    #45
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    The carbs are single side draft for each cylinder. It is better to have the individual cone filters for this app. This also is suppose to create some HP.
     
  6. Mar 6, 2012 at 11:42 AM
    #46
    TheMrGExperience

    TheMrGExperience Because Tacos are too mainstream...and Im poor.

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    01 GMC Sierra z85 4x4 4.8L RCLB
    Debadged, 4x6 to 6x9 rear speaker conversion
    how does a 1.8L engine push a rig like this?
     
  7. Mar 6, 2012 at 11:46 AM
    #47
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    Just a 1.3L. There are a few others here with this type of lift and larger tires using a stock motor.

    This one has been extremely modded so there shouldn't be any issues. It also has a lot to do with the gearing.
     
  8. Mar 6, 2012 at 11:53 AM
    #48
    TheMrGExperience

    TheMrGExperience Because Tacos are too mainstream...and Im poor.

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    01 GMC Sierra z85 4x4 4.8L RCLB
    Debadged, 4x6 to 6x9 rear speaker conversion
    gearing has to be over 6
     
  9. Mar 6, 2012 at 12:05 PM
    #49
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    It has a 6.5 transfer case gears and 529 RP. This is more than enough to do what the Rig was intended for with the motor.

    If the motor isn't up for the task for some reason it will go in the DD. There is a backup plan for another motor build that I've been thinking about.
     
  10. Mar 7, 2012 at 5:06 PM
    #50
    TheMrGExperience

    TheMrGExperience Because Tacos are too mainstream...and Im poor.

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    Debadged, 4x6 to 6x9 rear speaker conversion
    big block?
     
  11. Mar 8, 2012 at 5:12 AM
    #51
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    Some progress. The blending of welds takes a long time. I prefer that look because the parts look like a stamped piece.

    Reminder Before Panhard Mount

    [​IMG]


    Panhard Mount welded up and sleeves were added for strength. The welds were smoothed out still have to pop a 3/4 hole for the Heim Joint. There will also be a Bumpstops mount added to the bottom. Bumpstops on order should get them this week.

    The parts were also painted with welder’s primer before tacking together..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Here is the HS Extension clearanced for full steering. Still needs to be welded on. Making triple sure that everything is working before this is done.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Mar 8, 2012 at 5:14 AM
    #52
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    Here is a very rough idea of what I have in mind. I agree with the Bumpstop pressure with the angle as I need it. I have several triangulated basketry and a stabilizer DOM bar. The bar is another thing in the making it needs to function around the steering arm and not bump into the tire at full lock.

    This is probably why I never came across this setup when researching the subject. There is a lot going in 1 place.

    I will be adding the brace to the other side as we discussed earlier. It will need to have some Heim joints so I can remove it. I want to put the engine and trans in from the bottom because of the height issue. This bar will be tied in to a much beefier bumpstop mount on the passenger side.


    To be honest I have tried to get the spring to go down 3" using my engine hoist and some ratchet straps and I haven't got there yet. Don't know how often they will actually come in contact.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Mar 8, 2012 at 5:18 AM
    #53
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    Doing a little flexing to get the proper setting for the DS suspension components. The front shackle is at 46* and the DS leaf is getting close to a flat position. This is where I will set the bumpstop contact point.

    The shocks still have 2” of up travel to go. The clearance between the Panhard Mount and the (shock forward movement is 1.5”).

    To be honest I was more concerned of the shock hitting the mount at full flex because the shock moves forward and the mount is stationary. Worked out and even have enough room for the head of a ¾ bolt to fit.

    Loaded the weight of the motor back in the engine bay also. This brought my steering rod angles in at 3* . Shouldn’t see any bumpsteer with those angles.

    The suspension parts have been made for a while now. They are now going through the altering stage for better clearances or better ideas as more of the parts are added and watching the suspension cycle.

    I have decided to remove the Heim joint from the PS Panhard Bar. This will be replaced with a sleeve to accept a pair of leaf spring bushings welded to the Panhard Bar.

    The reason for the change:

    The Panhard Bar has a 5* bend in it and it tends to want to flop back and forth this will eliminate this issue. Really didn’t want to hear that noise when I was driving either. This will also make what movement there is with suspension cycling not as rigid.

    This means I will have to modify the PS Panhard Bar Mount for the larger sleeve bushing and offset the front portion for new alignment.

    These types of changes add a lot of time probably why it seems like there isn’t much progress made. There are a lot of factors to take into consideration especially when you start cycling the suspension. Better to catch the issues now then be non flexible with your design and have to do it all over again later.

    This particular area of the build has taken me 6 month to engineer and make the parts. It's finally time to start burning in parts.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  14. Mar 8, 2012 at 5:21 AM
    #54
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    Burned in the Panhard/Bumpstop mount in at 12*

    Burned in the Modified Ford Shock Tower at 8*

    The lower portion of the Bumpstop mount was boxed in. This was to conceal the nuts holding the Heim Joint and the Bumpstop in place. This will also give it more strength and add an additional place for a support bracket for the 1.25 DOM Front Brace Tube.

    Working on the bracket that is on the shock side of the mount. This has many compound angles and will be a full box. I will also try and add some holes with support tubes.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
  15. Mar 8, 2012 at 5:24 AM
    #55
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    Panhard Mount Bracket being made. This is the 1st of 3 brackets.

    This is the lager bracket and will be partially concealed with the shock. This will make it not as noticeable.

    Steps:

    Starting pieces needed to be tacked in place because of their irregular shape.
    Matting box pieces will be fitted and welded in place.
    Bracket will then be removed to weld the inside
    Holes will be popped in and support tubes added while it is out.
    Final Bracket burn in

    Note: Rear side plate still needs to be made to complete the full boxed bracket..


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  16. Mar 8, 2012 at 5:27 AM
    #56
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    This has been an interesting bracket to make. There were no parallel surfaces on any of the pieces and there were a few compound angles. The shapes looked more like a kite then a bracket.

    The first 2 steps are done.

    Steps:

    Starting pieces needed to be tacked in place because of their irregular shape.
    Mating box pieces will be fitted and welded in place.
    Bracket will then be removed to weld the inside
    Holes will be popped in and support tubes added while it is out.
    Final Bracket burn in



    The pieces will be welded together while it is still on the frame. The tacks will then be cut off the frame to make it easier to work on bracket for the holes, installing the support tubes and weld the inside for strength.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  17. Mar 8, 2012 at 6:11 AM
    #57
    IndianTaco

    IndianTaco Well-Known Member

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    Im at a loss for words..... sweet build
     
  18. Mar 8, 2012 at 10:05 AM
    #58
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    This will be a slight distraction and a bit off topic to the build. So, hope you don’t mind.

    Remember this pic and the Hotrod peeking through to the right. Thought that you may have been interested in seeing it.

    [​IMG]

    This is another one of my ridiculous, impractical Bucket List Builds.

    Stats:

    1933 Willys Fiberglass body and I built the frame.Yes, Willys actually make cars for awhile.



    671 Littlefield setup for 1 to 1 ratio, 383 Chevy STROKER all the high dollar internals, 4L60E auto manual valve body beefed up to hold 1000 hp. 8 3/4 456 gears with a 4 bar suspension, Mustang II front, It has 800HP and is a beast.

    Now for the Beast


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  19. Mar 8, 2012 at 10:07 AM
    #59
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    Kept this one separate. It is called a Watts link. It works great for this type of application because it keeps the rearend centered at all times. There is only 2 inches between the frame rails and the back tires. If I used a panhard bar it would have been way too short and would have been pushing the rearend from side to side during the suspension cycling.

    It took me a while to get all the info to make this up. It is a few different ideas put into 1. I also have Mustang II front inner and outer wheel bearings and seal in it and a cap for the top to keep the dirt out and to adjust and grease.

    As I said this was a bunch of different ideas put into 1 and sealing everything off was mine to add. They don't make anything like this. It is a real chore to get it all set up correctly. I works great.


    [​IMG]
     
  20. Mar 8, 2012 at 10:09 AM
    #60
    Tan Zuk

    Tan Zuk [OP] You will Love it or Hate it!!!

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    Here is a rendering that was made before the build was started. This was done to give me a real time look at what the mods would look like. So, there wasn’t wasted time on something that looked bad.

    This rendering has a pie chopped top and the dog house part of the front clip has been removed.

    [​IMG]
     
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