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Overheating wires with bed rail LED install

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by jibski, Mar 23, 2015.

  1. Mar 23, 2015 at 4:23 PM
    #1
    jibski

    jibski [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Josh
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    Picked up a double density LED light strip off Amazon. Definitely cheap because the wire connector broke immediately. So I soldered wires to the end leads (see picture). Ran power from my battery to a switch in my bed, and spliced a wire from that connection to one of the LED leads. Ran a wire from the other LED lead to the other switch connection and spliced another wire from that connection to a ground on the body panel. When I connect the wire to the battery it powers the system and the switch will turn the lights on and off, but the wire gets super hot within 10 seconds, hot enough to melt its own shielding wrap in some places. I haven't got my inline fuse in the mail yet but can't imagine that it would make a difference. I think it would just blow. I don't know much about wiring. Anybody have any ideas? Do I need to add a resistor to the system or something? I feel like it getting that hot that quickly would mean that that there were crossed wires somewhere, but I have carefully checked and don't believe there to be any. I also have switched which wire is attached to which lead on the lights and it does actually only light up with one of the configurations, so I guess the wire order makes a difference.
    Any help, suggestions, or ideas are welcomed and will be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Josh
     
  2. Mar 23, 2015 at 4:25 PM
    #2
    jibski

    jibski [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Used 16 ga wire throughout.

    image.jpg
     
  3. Mar 23, 2015 at 4:33 PM
    #3
    EDDO

    EDDO                         

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  4. Mar 23, 2015 at 6:10 PM
    #4
    jibski

    jibski [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just did some further testing. As it is wired up now, if I leave the switch in the on position, the light string lights up and the power wire stays cool. It is only when I switch the lights off that the wire immediately begins to heat up.
     
  5. Mar 23, 2015 at 6:51 PM
    #5
    o0oSHADOWo0o

    o0oSHADOWo0o Just lurking in the darkness

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    Shadow
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    Just a few LEDs...
    Sounds like you have either a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) or a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch that is short circuiting the battery when it is in the position that turns power off to the lights. :eek:
     
    soundman98 likes this.
  6. Mar 23, 2015 at 7:27 PM
    #6
    jibski

    jibski [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My toggle switch only has two terminals so I believe I have a SPST switch. Still trying to figure out how it is short circuiting in the off position.
     
  7. Mar 23, 2015 at 7:44 PM
    #7
    o0oSHADOWo0o

    o0oSHADOWo0o Just lurking in the darkness

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    Just a few LEDs...
    I just re-read how you say you have this wired. It sounds a bit wrong.

    First and foremost: You need a fuse between the + side of your battery and one terminal of your switch. This will keep the wires from melting/burning/starting a fire that could destroy your truck. (we don't want that to happen)

    Second: You should connect the + wires of your LED strips to the other switch terminal.

    Third: the - wires of your LED strips can be grounded or run all the way back to the - terminal of the battery.

    Additionally, your strips don't look weatherproof. This could cause a problem if they come into contact with grounded metal parts such as the bed rails. You should probably get some strips that are at least weatherproof or waterproof to prevent them from getting wet, corroding and failing as well as to prevent unwanted short circuits. ;)
     
  8. Mar 23, 2015 at 9:06 PM
    #8
    jibski

    jibski [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Fuse is on its way in the mail, so I won't hook up the circuit permanently until I have that. I tried switching the wires on the terminals of the switch and have the same issue. I now see that my strip is indoor rated only, but I'm going to roll the dice and I have a nice tonneau cover so hopefully that'll help.
     
  9. Mar 23, 2015 at 9:15 PM
    #9
    o0oSHADOWo0o

    o0oSHADOWo0o Just lurking in the darkness

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    Just a few LEDs...
    "Fuse is on its way in the Mail" ? They do have auto parts stores in CO don't they
     
    soundman98 likes this.
  10. Mar 24, 2015 at 8:12 AM
    #10
    jibski

    jibski [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I ordered everything online, including an inline fuse holder and fuse, just didn't arrive at the same time. Thanks for your help shadow. I sat down to draw up a circuit diagram to show you guys and before I even started drawing I realized I had done something goofy with the wiring. I had some weird quasi-parallel thing set up. I just went back through and made sure I had everything in a basic series circuit and now everything works great. I was just being a retard before.
    Thanks again!
    Josh
     
  11. Mar 29, 2024 at 1:53 PM
    #11
    Lukehugo19

    Lukehugo19 Active Member

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    - Dobinson ext travel coilovers 240lb - Dobinson ext travel rear shocks - Dobinson 500lb leaf packs - Greasable shackle bolts - Dobinson UCA - Dobinson sway bar relocate - Energy ext bump stops - Prinsu rack with PPF - Diode dynamics ss3 fog lights - Fifteen52 turbomac HD classic - Spidertraxx 1.25” hub centric - Mickey Thompson baja ATZ 305’s - Alpharex Pro series headlights - Sequential mirror signal lights - Bed lighting - Plate lights - Tail Lights - Reverse lights - Bed mat - TRD pro grill - Full front end PPF - Black out badges - OK expedition full skid
    Did you ever figure this out? Having the same issue. Wired direct to battery 20a inline fuse, splitter with two leads, one to light strip, and one to toggle switch. Hot when off normal when on.
     
  12. Mar 29, 2024 at 5:24 PM
    #12
    soundman98

    soundman98 Well-Known Member

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    pictures, drawing diagrams in any form, and/or links would be really beneficial here
     

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