1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

SAS vs repairing IFS

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by presto, Apr 4, 2014.

  1. Apr 4, 2014 at 2:55 PM
    #1
    presto

    presto [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2011
    Member:
    #56375
    Messages:
    2,243
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Topher
    san francisco
    Vehicle:
    2000 T4R 4x4
    Fully armored on 33’s
    So i just installed my suspension kit a month or 2 ago and i just looked at my cv axles (they have 170k miles on them) and there is grease coming from the end of the boot. the boot is not ripped or anything the grease is just coming out of the small end of the boot. I only looked because i started feeling/hearing a small clunk when i turned every once and a while. Im trying to see how much it would cost me to just SAS instead of repairing the IFS.

    I would need new UCA's (total chaos) and CV axles. I would probably hire my buddy to install these and would probably cost about 300.

    How much in parts would it cost to just go solid axle in the front? i would be willing to use a junkyard axle but i would prefer if all or most of the parts weren't from the junk yard..

    How much are CV axles that will not break/rip with 3" suspension lift?

    I don't have a welder capable of doing that type of welding so i would have to have this welded up professionally. (was going to ask jerry from BAMF if he does this type of stuffs)

    Thanks.
     
  2. Apr 4, 2014 at 4:36 PM
    #2
    TejasYOTA

    TejasYOTA Countinuous improvement

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2009
    Member:
    #23789
    Messages:
    344
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nathan
    Country of TEXAS!
    Vehicle:
    "WOOKIE" 01 Tacoma DC TRD Limited 4WD
    Check the TTORA Garage Section....
    Here is a sticky regarding est. costs for SAS.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/solid-axle-suspension/138316-sas-quick-guide-cost.html

    As for CVs not breaking...anything will break, depending how you drive... Even SAS.
    Tundra axles are used for LT systems.
    There are two companies that design/ manufactures custom CVs.
    But the cost is similar to getting a SAS, when you add the cost up.

    the leak may be a loose clamp... Easy to fix.
    You still would have to remove the CV, just to make sure no dirt or damage occurred inside and then repack with grease and use a new boot and clamp.
    All easy to do yourself.
     
  3. Apr 4, 2014 at 5:27 PM
    #3
    presto

    presto [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2011
    Member:
    #56375
    Messages:
    2,243
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Topher
    san francisco
    Vehicle:
    2000 T4R 4x4
    Fully armored on 33’s
    Thank you for the link. So basically if I end up just replacing them I should probably just go with the OEM CVs?
     
  4. Apr 4, 2014 at 6:05 PM
    #4
    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2012
    Member:
    #82706
    Messages:
    5,371
    Gender:
    Male
    The Desert SW
    Vehicle:
    2012 FJ
    First off, figure out if your CV axles are toast or if the boot is just ripped/leaking.

    A CV axle can be rebooted for ~$30 with a Toyota kit and you can do the boot slide mod on the inner boot to account for the lift-induced angle. (Part #04438-04021)

    Not sure why you need new UCAs to fix a CV axle.

    If you do need new CV axles, the OEMs are good quality. (Part #43430-04020). They are around $360 ea.

    Also, these guys have a good reputation around here: http://www.cvjreman.com
     
  5. Apr 4, 2014 at 6:12 PM
    #5
    The End

    The End Support our troops!

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2009
    Member:
    #20026
    Messages:
    5,027
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tim
    Lakeland, Fl
    Vehicle:
    09 A/C 4wd M6
    HP60/14 bolt, Atlas 5.0.
    I'm into my swap about 9 grand.
     
  6. Apr 4, 2014 at 6:12 PM
    #6
    The End

    The End Support our troops!

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2009
    Member:
    #20026
    Messages:
    5,027
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tim
    Lakeland, Fl
    Vehicle:
    09 A/C 4wd M6
    HP60/14 bolt, Atlas 5.0.
    With a "junkyard axle".
     
  7. Apr 4, 2014 at 6:16 PM
    #7
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Member:
    #19185
    Messages:
    23,542
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Doug
    Lakeside, Ca / Gardnerville, Nevada
    Vehicle:
    2004 DC TRD 4x
    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now
    As mentioned theres a thread for SAS'd trucks , I'm at a crossroads with the whole IFS thing, well actually already made the decision , I'm going back to a solid axle, for the kind of wheeling i do I'm waaay better off maintenance wise for sure, this was my first IFS & after almost 5 years I've had enough time to evaluate & maybe i get a slightly better ride
    with IFS but not enough to keep me in one, IFS is just too fussy I think

    You better have a fat wallet tho if not doing the labor, its pretty intensive i figure, i have resources for the welding i can't/ won't do & some for parts too
     

Products Discussed in

To Top