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Tow Package rating - pretty accurate?

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Old 04-01-2012, 03:06 PM   #1
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Tow Package rating - pretty accurate?

I have the tow package on my Taco and I currently have an open 16' alu trailer that use to haul my car (2640 lbs) + a spare set of wheels. The truck hauls it fine (though it doesn't fly up hills) but I'd like to go to a 20' enclosed (will have to be alu as well).

Question for those that haul- how close get you get to 6500lbs gross towing weight with no issues. Not hauling long distances- about 1-3 hrs at a time.
Whats a safe gross weight?
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:44 PM   #2
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Gen 2 Trucks, and their options and tow ratings.
Gen 2 Tacoma (2005-2008)


Gen 2 trucks come with two engine options.

The 2.7L I4 (Standard in all regular and access-cab trucks regardless of drive train, not available in the X-runner or double cab trucks)
159 hp @ 5,200 rpm
180 lb.-ft. @ 3,800 rpm
Max. Towing capacity 3,500 lbs.
Max. Tongue weight 350 lbs.

The 4.0L V6 (Standard on the X-runner, and double cab trucks, and available in Pre-runner and 4x4 Access-cab trucks)
236 hp @ 5,200 rpm
266 lb.-ft. @ 4,000 rpm
Max. Towing capacity 6,500 lbs. (*except X-runner 3,500 lbs.)
Max. Tongue weight 650 lbs. (*except X-runner 350 lbs.)

The Gen 2 trucks are available with a factory “towing package” on V6 models only.

This “towing package” consists of a class IV receiver hitch, supplemental engine oil cooler, transmission cooler (again automatic transmission only), Heavy-Duty battery, 130 amp alternator, fully functional 7-way round plug, and a plug and play brake controller pigtail.

Again Toyota offers a dealer installed hitch and 4-flat wiring for the I4 trucks and the V6 trucks that did not come with the towing package. I4 Gen 2 trucks will require the same aftermarket add on parts that the Gen 1 trucks do. The V6 Gen 2 trucks could have all the factory Toyota parts installed to become a “towing package” equipped truck, or could also go aftermarket. These trucks are the ones where the owner will have to look at what they want to tow to decide how far to go with what parts they need.

Example, if your trailer has electronic brakes on it, you WILL need a brake controller. That is not an option. If you are pulling an RV then you will likely want to have the charging circuit connected so that your coach batteries stay fully charged while you are in transit, you may also want to have the bigger alternator and battery installed. If you have an automatic transmission, and are going to tow anything of substance further than say 200 miles more than once a year you WILL need a transmission cooler, and of course you will need a frame mounted receiver hitch as you should NEVER tow from the bumper. Again, more on all this later.
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heres the linky http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tow...ng-bible.htmln hope that answers your questions


I would agree with 6400 gross. that way u have 100 pounds to play with
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:11 AM   #3
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Thanks- I Searched and found these numbers. Just wondered how that played out in the real world.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:56 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritter View Post
Thanks- I Searched and found these numbers. Just wondered how that played out in the real world.
My 2012 double cab long bed v6 auto tows 6k lbs fine, all day long. I have a 16' car hauler open dekc that weighs 2k and my 85 4runner on 40" iroks that weighs about 4500. I take it out of overdrive but it does great.
Trailer brakes and firestone airbags are needed.
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:00 AM   #5
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That's precisely the feedback I was looking for- many thanks.
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:04 AM   #6
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check out what these guys tow...some of them get pretty close to that max without issue. As long as you have the proper setup like brake controllers, tow package, WD hitch...you should be fine...

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tow...t-you-tow.html
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:13 AM   #7
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I tow a 17 ft travel trailer fully loaded (water, propane, food ) plus generator and tools in the bed with a shell up and down the hills in northern Arizona up to 8500ft with no problems. I have an '08 tacoma AC, V6, offroad, 6sp, tow package. Don
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:22 AM   #8
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I tow thousands of miles every year in the western mountains with 3500 lbs. 4.0 and 6 spd. I also upgraded to 4.56 gears. I'm still looking for ways to lighten my load. If you aren't climbing then you could haul more for sure. When people say they have "no issues" you really have to ask what they consider an "issue". For some people taking hills in 3rd gear at 40 or less is not an issue. For me it is. I know people who never break 60mph with a trailer either. You need to consider how / where you drive. There are also conditions like wind to think about. The heavier the trailer is compared to the truck, the more likely you are to have sway and control issues. Mechanically, most aspects of the truck are up to the task, but the rear diff is too small for heavy towing. You'll need to run a good 75-140 oil like Redline or Amsoil and change it every year. Redline is better at handling heat because of the additive package they use, so that is my choice. Grease the Ujoints every 5K. Frankly, if I were rating this truck I would put the max at 4,500lbs. I wouldn't tow over 3,000 in areas with grades without regearing. You'll need good trailer brakes and controller no matter what the size. Anything more is going to come with real limitations, cause accelerated wear of certain parts, and possibly raise safety concerns. JMHO, take it for what's worth.

For the OP, towing in the South, I think your plans are reasonable. I would keep the speed down on the hills or into head winds to reduce heating in the differential. I would also use a WD hitch, airbags, brakes, and good controller.
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:01 PM   #9
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The Firestone airbags look like a very good idea. AAL as well?

This is the trailer I am considering. Because aero figures into it as well and not just GVW, this trailer is not only under 2000lbs. but also has a low profile and front vee to reduce drag. The trailer + car + extras should < 5000 lbs.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritter View Post
The Firestone airbags look like a very good idea. AAL as well?

This is the trailer I am considering. Because aero figures into it as well and not just GVW, this trailer is not only under 2000lbs. but also has a low profile and front vee to reduce drag. The trailer + car + extras should < 5000 lbs.
The weight should be no problem, no bags needed. With a trailer that large and long, you might consider sway control.

My enclosed M/C trailer has a steel frame and dual axles, with bikes and tools and fuel and all the stuff we bring to the track it's probably at 4000-4500. Plus I have a scooter and other junk in the bed. Still rides pretty level, and I actually have not yet gotten a brake controller (no real grades to deal with in MN though.) I can definitely feel it back there but it tows pretty well.

Oh you will definitely want the rear suspension TSB done though. A trailer that heavy will make it sag noticeably without it.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:46 PM   #11
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Oh and where was that shot of your car taken? I rode at Barber for a weekend once, that track is sick.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:10 PM   #12
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Nice 996 I just took my first course. I did a skills day which now allows me to do a DE. My family is in the business. Do you use any Brey-Krause products?
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritter View Post
The Firestone airbags look like a very good idea. AAL as well?

This is the trailer I am considering. Because aero figures into it as well and not just GVW, this trailer is not only under 2000lbs. but also has a low profile and front vee to reduce drag. The trailer + car + extras should < 5000 lbs.
The Firestone RideRite bags are the ones to get. I used them for many thousands of towing miles before I swapped out for heavier springs. You won't need an AAL with the bags. They can be a big asset when used with the WD hitch. Once you are set up, I don't think that trailer and car will be a problem over level to light grades.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by positraction127 View Post
The weight should be no problem, no bags needed. With a trailer that large and long, you might consider sway control.

My enclosed M/C trailer has a steel frame and dual axles, with bikes and tools and fuel and all the stuff we bring to the track it's probably at 4000-4500. Plus I have a scooter and other junk in the bed. Still rides pretty level, and I actually have not yet gotten a brake controller (no real grades to deal with in MN though.) I can definitely feel it back there but it tows pretty well.

Oh you will definitely want the rear suspension TSB done though. A trailer that heavy will make it sag noticeably without it.
Thx. Which TSB you are referring to?
The pic is from Road Atlanta. Here's a more recent snap from a race at Barber last Nov. and an old (with arachnid).
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:53 PM   #15
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(disclaimer, this is only my $0.02)

I really wouldn't tow a 20' enclosed with a Tacoma, no matter how much you modify the suspension it's too light. Especially (with the trailer + car) with all your tools (easily 500lbs) + spares + extra wheels + misc equipment + friend's stuff which always seems to make its way into the trailer too. You'll be on edge all the time with no room for emergency maneuvers - especially relevant when on the way home all tired on Sunday evening.

I'd say keep the Taco but add a F250 7.3L $14,000, done depreciating, same fuel economy and more sane. This would also allow for buying a less expensive steel frame trailer.
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Old 04-04-2012, 05:21 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorsportsAustin View Post
(disclaimer, this is only my $0.02)

I really wouldn't tow a 20' enclosed with a Tacoma, no matter how much you modify the suspension it's too light. Especially (with the trailer + car) with all your tools (easily 500lbs) + spares + extra wheels + misc equipment + friend's stuff which always seems to make its way into the trailer too. You'll be on edge all the time with no room for emergency maneuvers - especially relevant when on the way home all tired on Sunday evening.

I'd say keep the Taco but add a F250 7.3L $14,000, done depreciating, same fuel economy and more sane. This would also allow for buying a less expensive steel frame trailer.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:53 AM   #17
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I hear you but I don't wrench myself so the tools go with support. In fact many times they will haul the trailer with a dually.
I'd just like to know that when needed or desired I could take it.

And I've considered a bigger truck but if I got an F250 I'd sell the Taco- we have 6 vehicles now and thats 6x the hassle of one (obviously).

The tracks I mainly do are in order 30 mins , 60 mins and 2 hrs away. Also go to Sebring which is 9 hrs away but the guys always take it down. I see that as pretty light duty on the Truck overall.

Finally the demand/resale for that trailer is phenomenal - like 75/80% after a few years so if it doesn't work out I can easily deal it. And/or get a bigger truck.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:02 AM   #18
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Make sure to consider all the weight and occupants in the truck as well, as this weight subtracts from that maximum number of 6500. Also the pulling weight of any trailer rises when going uphill. And conversely the effective stopping weight rises going down hills.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:03 AM   #19
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Didn't read all the replies, however my personal experience. I had around 7k behind mine with no issues as far as handling the weight. Be sure though at that weight you have good trailer brakes, if running a tandem axle trailer I would suggest brakes on both axles. That's what I had and it stopped it just fine. I'd also suggest atleast sway control since your talking enclosed trailer. V nose trailers are great because they help to cut through the wind a little better. I was pulling a normal car trailer with a truck on it so didn't have the crosswind problem that most enclosed trailers experience. Also if you have enough room to play with where you park the car in the trailer you could get by without bags in the rear, that's what I did. Just position the car right to get the desired tongue weight. If you can't do that then I'd suggest either bags or a weight distribution hitch.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:08 AM   #20
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Just noticed the pictures and specs you posted on that trailer above, with brakes on both axles, and good brake controller, and atleast a sway controller OR weight distribution hitch I'd pull it all day long with the Tacoma.

Pulled this several hours up the interstate, ran 75 with traffic most of the time. Had to drop down to 4th (6spd manual) on the one good mountain but I'm talking like mountain that puts 18 wheelers going 30 mpg. I still managed 60 in 4th. When I hauled it back I turned it around facing forward and it did just as well. Just parked the truck back a tad farther to keep the tongue weight down.

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