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Old 07-21-2010, 12:33 PM   #81
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I also did the D-ring in the Bed screw area and I like the result ! No drilling required and it is a great place and also very secure.
I hate the thought of drilling in my new bed...
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:43 PM   #82
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Adding D-rings to the front of the bed

Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick491 View Post
OK, I had meant to get this up earlier today, but it was raining this morning, and I chose to not go and crawl under my truck in the rain to take pictures.

OK I purchased the extra set of D-rings from toyotapartspeople.com, they had the best price I found @ $18.40 http://toyotapartspeople.com/SearchProduct.asp?Model=Tacoma&catid=3374291816783 093&year=07&productdesc=D%2DRings+%2D+Tie+Downs

I then crawled under the truck with the backing plate that comes with the kit. After looking at my options, and realizing that the Toyota recomended "in the sidewall" install was not suited to my purpose, and that the "use the drain hole" method that I read about in a thread a while back would require cutting a piece of the bed structure away, I opted for my own option.

If you hold the backing plate up so that the center of the bolt is an inch and a quarter (1.25") to the outside of your drain hole and a quarter of an inch (.25") to the rear (toward the tailgate) it will fit perfectly flat on the underside of the bed, be in contact with the bed and provide the maximum strength possible from this kit and you'll still have your drain holes for when it rains. See photo.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/s...to=757&cat=500

(Note regarding the photo, the front of the bed and drain hole have been marked, also note that my backing plate is not square as I have described above. That is because I did the install alone, and used a screwdriver through the drain hole to keep the backing plate from spinning as I tightened it from above. You will need someone under the truck to hold the plate square while you tighten it down. I will fix that at some point when I have a set of helping hands, but right now all they do in my truck is keep my toolbox from sliding around so there is no load on mine to speak of.)

I then marked the hole with a pencil, struck the center of the mark with a cerntering punch, and then drilledthrough from the bottom up. (wear safety goggles.) Go back up top insert the D-ring and bolt assembly through the hole you just drilled, and then go back under and spin on the backing plate/nut untill it is lined up and hand tight. Repeat this procedure for the other side. Then go into the house find your wife/girlfriend/kid to come out and hold the wrench on the backing plate while you tighten the bolt from above so that it remains square.

Finished install picture. Again note the arrow showing the location of the factory drain hole in relation to the D-ring.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/s...to=758&cat=500

Hope this helps.
Your post and photos are extremely helpful. Do you know if your recommended measurements for hole drilling are the same for both short and long beds? I have a 2011 dual cab with the short, 5' bed. I "presume" the frame width is the same on both beds, but not sure about the distance to the rear. Some of the follow-up discussion in your topic thread raises this question. Like the commentor, my wheel well extends all the way to the front panel of the bed.

It's pouring down rain at the moment or I'd measure drain hole, frame bolt, etc. and post, but cannot do now. Sorry...

thanks,
d
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Old 08-27-2011, 11:53 AM   #83
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what I did for my extra tie downs

Here are a few pics of my extra tie downs I used I ties a Camper down to the bed of the truck its weight was about 1000 lb
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:38 AM   #84
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Anyone out ther know the torque for the bed hold down bolts?

I want to move the 2 D-Rings to the front bed hold down bolts.

Thanks, Billy
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:00 PM   #85
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I've been doing a lot of research around taco world, and similar to some of the posts, I'd like to add a whole new rail track system just below the factory one which gets occupied by my bakflip cover.

I've read that the pull rate for the cleats are approx. 200lbs each. Does anyone know what the pull strength of the rails themselves are?

I'm debating whether I want to attach a secondary rail system below it or onto it. :/

I'm doubting Toyota would approve of the idea, but I believe with backing plates placed that the bed would be able to support larger loads onto them.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Carg...ax/AT3976.html

This is something like I'd be thinking.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:08 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesse30002000 View Post
...I'm doubting Toyota would approve of the idea, but I believe with backing plates placed that the bed would be able to support larger loads onto them.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Carg...ax/AT3976.html

This is something like I'd be thinking.
Jesse, it looks like they cobbled a kit together with parts from the U.S. Cargo Control website. If you only wanted specific items you could pick and choose from the source. I too am looking at a similar type arrangement on my truck as the FlipPac makes use of the factory tie downs unusable.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:58 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy View Post
Anyone out ther know the torque for the bed hold down bolts?

I want to move the 2 D-Rings to the front bed hold down bolts.

Thanks, Billy
This thread is what you're looking for good sir.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...-bed-pics.html

@palehorse1; Ha, ya, same sort of thing pretty much eh? I'm just far too baffled as to how I can get behind the bed to put bolts and plates to re in forced the bloody thing haha. The storage compartment would suffice 2, MAYBE 3 of the spots, but I can't get a spot close to the tail lights or the front of the bed @_@

I want a front to back rail, this way I can tie down a couple things at once, like say 2 couches, hot water tanks, maybe even a piano??!!
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:47 PM   #88
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d rings

Why couldn't you add them with the existing bolts that attach the bed to the frame?
Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick491 View Post
OK, I had meant to get this up earlier today, but it was raining this morning, and I chose to not go and crawl under my truck in the rain to take pictures.

OK I purchased the extra set of D-rings from toyotapartspeople.com, they had the best price I found @ $18.40 http://toyotapartspeople.com/SearchProduct.asp?Model=Tacoma&catid=3374291816783 093&year=07&productdesc=D%2DRings+%2D+Tie+Downs

I then crawled under the truck with the backing plate that comes with the kit. After looking at my options, and realizing that the Toyota recomended "in the sidewall" install was not suited to my purpose, and that the "use the drain hole" method that I read about in a thread a while back would require cutting a piece of the bed structure away, I opted for my own option.

If you hold the backing plate up so that the center of the bolt is an inch and a quarter (1.25") to the outside of your drain hole and a quarter of an inch (.25") to the rear (toward the tailgate) it will fit perfectly flat on the underside of the bed, be in contact with the bed and provide the maximum strength possible from this kit and you'll still have your drain holes for when it rains. See photo.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/s...to=757&cat=500

(Note regarding the photo, the front of the bed and drain hole have been marked, also note that my backing plate is not square as I have described above. That is because I did the install alone, and used a screwdriver through the drain hole to keep the backing plate from spinning as I tightened it from above. You will need someone under the truck to hold the plate square while you tighten it down. I will fix that at some point when I have a set of helping hands, but right now all they do in my truck is keep my toolbox from sliding around so there is no load on mine to speak of.)

I then marked the hole with a pencil, struck the center of the mark with a cerntering punch, and then drilledthrough from the bottom up. (wear safety goggles.) Go back up top insert the D-ring and bolt assembly through the hole you just drilled, and then go back under and spin on the backing plate/nut untill it is lined up and hand tight. Repeat this procedure for the other side. Then go into the house find your wife/girlfriend/kid to come out and hold the wrench on the backing plate while you tighten the bolt from above so that it remains square.

Finished install picture. Again note the arrow showing the location of the factory drain hole in relation to the D-ring.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/s...to=758&cat=500

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-30-2014, 01:59 PM   #89
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I have a 2013 so I already have tie down points in the front and back of the bed but I wanted a tie down in the middle as well to strap down kayaks. I ordered the 5 pack of D-rings from Army surplus for $6.
They definitely jingle around and to prevent unwanted movement and noise I squirted silicone into the hinge area. I drilled a couple new holes in the middle of the bed just next to the wheel wells. The composite bed is definitely closer to fiberglass than plastic as you drill it. I just used some hardware I had in my toolbox to bolt it on then shot some flat black paint on top then underneath the bed.
I removed one bed bolt to check it out but it was much larger than the hole on the Army surplus D-ring and I didn't want to spend an hour filing the hole larger to fit. Drilling new holes was much faster.
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