Can't shift out of Park (even with Override) - Park Lock Solenoid Failed

I can't shift the auto shifter out of park into gear. I have used the override button next to the shifter and it still won't release the shifter out of park. Yes the pedal is being pressed. I can "force" the shifter out of park but it takes quite a bit of force and of course a loud "snap" sound as I know I'm forcing a release below the console.

Most of the treads I've searched on this seem to indicate a fuse or the brake switch relay. I'm about to check the fuses but I've yet to see a post where someone wasn't able to release the break using the override as in my case.

Help?

 

Nope. I live in Houston....dead flat here lol. (god I wish we had some inclines here).

It started last weekend and has done it randomly through the week. Now its 100% all the time.

 

Checked the fuses. Zip... none blown. Could something be jammed down there?

 

I'm not sure if the shifter is cable drawn or not, if it is, take apart the center console and see if the jacket of the cable has slipped out of it mechanism. You can also check the other side where it goes to the tranny. If it is linkage, check all the joints, take them apart (if you are mechanically inclined) and see if you can manually shift it at the tranny or if it is the lever mechanism. I would start there since my electronic knowledge of the shift lock interlock is not great. Good luck

 

Just checked mine and it is cable drawn, it's like a brake lever on a bike, the nut could be loose on the jacket and not adjusted properly. Hopefully it is not internal (tranny)

Also check for kinks, the cable underneath could have been hit by a rock stick etc and kinked the cable, random thought

 

STICKY SHIFTER / SHIFTER IS HARD TO MOVE
Most of us would disconnect the shifter cable from the transmission lever and then verify the cable is free by hopping in the truck and moving the shifter from park to low . We should feel nothing because the shifter cable is no longer connected to the transmission . If the shifter is still tight to move , we know that the issue resides in the cable or the plastic shifter cover . A quick lube job is going to fix that up .

Next , with the shifter cable removed from the transmission lever , try and manually move that transmission lever by hand . You should feel click , click , click and it should be fairly easy to move with your hands . If you cant move it by hand , remove the PRNDL switch shown on page 16 at this link , it shows the switch in question . Spray the heck out of it . Some guys actually have to replace the PRNDL switch becuase of corrosion .The PRNDL switch gets very tight when it corrodes http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf

When the switch is removed , you can spray the seal on the transmission that sits behind the switch to see if there are additional problems with the lever shaft since the lever shaft is also known to corrode .
, then take a small screwdriver and pry the lever seal away from the shifter selector shaft enough to blast some lubricant between the seal until you get the lever to move by hand .Might have to work it back and forth a little but its going to free up . You should have the wheels blocked when you do this .Both of these issues are very common

Next , place the transmission gear shifter in park and " REMOVE THE KEY "
Throw the key on the drivers seat until your done .
Go to rear of truck and manually push it by hand to verify the truck is actually in park . Go back under the truck and check to see if the shifter cable lines up perfectly with the hole in the transmission lever . If it doesnt line up , adjust the shifter cable until it fits perfectly into the transmission lever . The adjustment is under the shift counsole .
Once the cable is aligned with the transmission shift lever , verify the truck will only start in park and nuetral .

This covers any normal shifter cable and alignment issues .

Now you know the shifter is free with the truck in the off position .
Now , start the truck and verify you can smoothly shift through all the gears . Has the shifter freed up or is it still really tight ?

If its still tight with the engine running , remove all ground straps and clean them spotless . Add additional ground straps if you please .
I have seen vehicles catch on fire for this very reason .
When the ground wires on circuits get old and corroded , they no longer function properly and loose contact with ground . Guess what your shifter cable just became ? The ground wire from your transmission to the vehicle body .
I have replaced many melted shifter cables . The shifter cable becomes the vehicles ground and the plastic outer shield will actually melt to the inner cable . This is more noticeable on todays vehichles with all the fancy control motors and electronics as they draw much more amperage in comparison to older cars and trucks . With the non metal box on our trucks all we have is the frame and truck cab to rely on for our grounding needs .
A little sand paper used to clean those ground straps usually fixes the problem but you can always add a couple more straps to be safe . Some guys are too late and the cable is fried . Some guys replace the cable without replacing or cleaning the grounds only to have the same issue again .
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...roblem-putting-truck-automatic-into-park.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...ny-shifter-2006-auto-6-cyl-3.html#post8471496

 

Fantastic write up gearcruncher!!!! I'm gonna check mine for s+g later!

 

Great writeup Greacruncher but I unfortunately I don't think this is my problem

The shifter moving through the gears feels easy and fine. Its just getting out of park into reverse to start shifting. I'm pretty sure there is something that prevents you from shifting the car out of park which releases when you step on the brake? I think its that which isn't working... because when I force the shifter out of Park its a snapping sound. Nothing mechanical or metallic (i.e. not transmission). the sound is clearly coming from the the area where the shifter goes into the center console. I'm pretty sure I'm just forcing the override to let me shift ... but that is why its puzzling because the override button also doesn't work.

 

My next try would be the brake switch. If you are applying the brake, and its not releasing, the switch at the pedal or wherever it is located may be bad and not telling the shifter you are applying pressure on the pedal. If you can find it, maybe see if it can be bypassed to check it out.

Several years ago, my 08 had the same problem. I was still under factory warranty and for the life of me cant remember what they changed, but something keeps telling me it was something around the shifter itself. Sorry I cant remember, but I had same exact issue you had.

 

Hadn't ran in to it yet with a tacoma, but if someone described this to me with any vehicle I'd suggest the shifter lock. The shifter should have a little lock on it where you have to have the brake depressed to get it out of park. I would check 3 things.

1- find the lock in the center console, make sure it is working.
2- If not check the button or sensor on your brake pedal that opperates your brake lights.
3- Make sure your brake lights come on when you push the brake pedal.

More times than not I've found it had something to do with the button/switch on the brake pedal.

 

Chadabear beat me to it.

 

That's the first thing I tried. I think it is the shifter lock as well, but manual button next to the shifter isn't releasing the shifter. Do you suppose the mechanism is jammed or broke?

 

Yah , I must have been half asleep when I posted that troubleshooter .
Anyhow , diagnostics start on page 53 of this PDF http://fjcruiser-club.com/docs/RM/A750E%20Automatic%20Transaxle.pdf

Link works for me but will post again http://fjcruiser-club.com/docs/RM/A750E Automatic Transaxle.pdf

 

Link doesn't work.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/200733-shift-lock-out.html

This sounds like the issue that I'm having, the solenoid? I'm not technically savy enough to figure out how to test or replace this though

 

I agree it sounds like the solenoid or possibly no signal going to the solenoid .
Are your brake lights working ? this will eliminate the brake switch .
Check fuses on that circuit as well

 

Checked the fuses. All ok. Will double check the brake lights again today.

Even if it was the brake switch, shouldn't the manual override next to the shifter release the solenoid to shift? That's why I was leaning more towards the solenoid opposed to the brake switch because the manual release isn't working.

 

Yes , according to the schematic , there are only two wires used with the shift interlock solenoid . By testing the brake switch , it eliminates the brake switch as the possibility and if all fuses are ok ,the over ride would be the next switch to test . All i am doing is breaking the diagnostic down to eliminate you from purchasing components that you dont need and accidently spending those hard earned bucks .
So far everything is pointing towards the solenoid under the shifter counsole .
If you have a 12 volt test light or a digital volt meter , its fairly easy to check this . The shifter counsole comes off super easy

 

I have a multimeter kicking around. Remove the console, start the truck, press the brake and see if the solenoid is getting a signal? I assume of there is a signal and no function of the solenoid then it is bad?

How would I test the brake switch? (where is it)?