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Fan speed switch not working.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by kbmcmahon, Jan 17, 2010.

  1. Aug 25, 2011 at 9:26 PM
    #61
    melsman

    melsman Member

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    Hi TacomaRebel,

    I cleaned the connector with a small file and/or fine grit sandpaper. Just enough to clean off any corrosion and make a clean, low-resistance connection.

    Also, as a note to all, it's been almost a year since I applied my fix and the fan/switch is still working fine.

    Melsman
     
  2. Sep 12, 2011 at 1:17 PM
    #62
    walthouston7

    walthouston7 Member

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    Cold air intake, 22's are gone (thank god) got 17's and BFG's, Audio system, Flowmaster 40
    After fan speed issues and great advice from this thread I replaced my resistor and my fan worked again but not on high speed. It was pretty much another "low" setting. Then, a week later the whole thing went out again. Its hot as hell in Memphis and I'm on a budget. Can anybody help a bro out?!
     
  3. Sep 17, 2011 at 8:19 AM
    #63
    ibJAE

    ibJAE Member

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    Wow .. haven't checked this thread in a while. Since I did the repair I posted here a year ago I have not had the problem re-occur:

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...-resistor.html

    As I believe it is a design flaw. The terminals are too small for the amount of current they see - I am sure it is due to the Med-High speed being a popular setting. On High the resistor is bypassed via a relay, but they should have used a larger terminal for the resistor 12v supply and a more solid connector design. The female spade is a poorly designed pressure contact that loses tension under repeated heat/cooling cycles of the relay. I avoid long term usage of the Med-High fan speed. Toyota at least should redesign the resistor and supply a new harness connector to make it a permanent fix.

    The cabin filter issue could also be a contributing factor, but not as much as a poor design.

    So when repairing this, like some here have done, clean the supply terminal and re-tension the female connector (careful not to damage it). Dielectric grease helps in keeping the terminal clean and transfers heat from the metal connector to the plastic holder.

    Hope this helps.

    JE

    PS: Walthouston 7: Check the high blower relay (should be in a fuse box) and/or for a blown fuse - if you have a test light use it. Also, although it would be unusual, a completely plugged cabin filter could stop air flow ... not sure it could get that bad.
     
  4. Sep 22, 2011 at 6:08 AM
    #64
    Hadoken

    Hadoken Active Member

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    I'm having a slightly different problem with my blower - It worked normally yesterday on my way home from work, 2 hours later my wife and I went out for supper and the fan would not work on any setting.
    After a mile of driving, it randomly came on and started working as normal all the way to the restaurant. Got in the truck on the way home, same thing, did not work for the first 3-4 miles of the trip and then worked until I turned the truck off.

    Now this morning it will not come on at all, and during my 15 mile trip to work it never did start working.

    I understand that the lower the settings have their voltage divided by the resistor, and I think the high setting is controlled by the relay. Since none of these settings are working, should I go straight to replacing the blower motor? Is there some relay or fuse that would affect all of the settings at once? I was under the impression if it was a fuse issue it would have stopped and never came back instead of being intermittent last night.

    Thanks
    Oh - I have a 2005, 104k miles.
     
  5. Sep 22, 2011 at 6:17 AM
    #65
    MAXTacoma

    MAXTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Mine started doing this last week... How do I know that it isn't the actualy switch itself????
     
  6. Sep 22, 2011 at 7:55 AM
    #66
    Hadoken

    Hadoken Active Member

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    I don't know about yours, but if you turn the A/C on the light for the A/C goes off when you turn the fan off and comes on when you turn it to any speed. If that light is going on and off, that lets me know the switch is still working and telling something to turn on, but it isn't happening.
     
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  7. Sep 22, 2011 at 8:03 AM
    #67
    MAXTacoma

    MAXTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha... THANK YOU... My A/C light comes on when I turn the dial to the first notch. So I guess I need a resistor... I wonder how long I can take only having HIGH?
     
  8. Oct 26, 2011 at 11:01 PM
    #68
    Randy22

    Randy22 New Member

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    Viper 2-way starter, Leather seats, LED cab lights
    My fan was chirping so I pulled apart the whole fan and greased it, but no it wont free spin. Any ideas why? If I try using it, it blows the 50 A fuse. I know it should free spin but its like the magnents are holding it still.
    Any Ideas?
     
  9. Nov 6, 2011 at 3:55 PM
    #69
    Cdee

    Cdee New Member

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    Hi, all. I am new, hope I am in the correct discussion area. I have read this thread and my problem seems to fit in with one exception, my fan is working on low but no other setting. It blows hot air, but the low setting is the only one working. When I set it on anything else....nothing. Would this still be the resistor? Or maybe the blower speed control switch? I tore apart the center of my dash before I found this forum, but do not know what to do next. Should I just try one and then the other if the first doesn't work? Any advice would be appreciated.
    It is a 1996 Tacoma, just turned over 200,000 and I am still in love.

    This forum is the greatest!!!
    Thanks, Cdee
    UPDATE - I took the switch out and it is burned up!@! Looks like I found it!!
     
  10. Nov 20, 2011 at 4:40 PM
    #70
    mtblife

    mtblife New Member

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    Bought a '06 Taco with 120k on it a few months ago. Found this thread after my blower switch quit working- just realized I have a screen where there should be a compass and thermometer that is blank. Sounds like this is a common problem- were you able to come up with a fix? Great thread by the way- probably saved me a pile of money, thanks all.
     
  11. Nov 22, 2011 at 11:21 AM
    #71
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 NBHNC

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    I replaced the resistor and in cabin air filter and all is well
     
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  12. Nov 23, 2011 at 10:37 AM
    #72
    porsgrunn

    porsgrunn New Member

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    The fan & motor should free spin while power is not applied. If it is dragging or freezing, and the fan is not binding on anything, it is probably the motor bushing that have gone bad. Time to replace the motor.
     
  13. Nov 23, 2011 at 5:57 PM
    #73
    Tbaytaco

    Tbaytaco Well-Known Member

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    Note to others... once you have cleaned the air filter, and looked into the cabin filter hole. DO NOT stick your hand into the blower motor to see if you can spin it freely. Or if you are going to do that, then make sure that the fan speed switch is in the off position. Just so happens that my fan must have been slightly clogged, because when I reached my hand in there to spin it, I made contact and it took off ( switch was on high). Luckily still have all my fingers.

    Also copious amounts of alcohol before attempting fix is a bad idea.
     
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  14. Dec 17, 2011 at 12:16 PM
    #74
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    So I've got the glove box out and am getting ready to look for a burn mark on either the wire or the connector body itself. Once I see the burn mark, what exactly do I do to clean the connection? Do I have to pull the burnt wire out of the connector, clean it and put it back in???
    I'm a simple guy so please type slowly. :D

    EDIT: Never mind... found this link (from above) http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/107093-before-you-replace-blower-resistor.html

    It shows what to do to clean the connector. Thanks TW for the help!
     
  15. Dec 17, 2011 at 1:08 PM
    #75
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    Ok, that link doesn't list the correct tool to use to remove the wire so I just used a small flat head screw driver, scraped off some of the corrosion, bent the male pin ever-so-slightly and reassembled everything. My fan now works and I didn't have to change the relay.

    I'd really like to know how to remove the wire so I can thoroughly clean the contact and apply dielectric grease so does anyone know what the correct tool to use is (part number would be great)? If I have to fix this every 6 months at least it's free.

    EDIT: Also, I didn't have a 5.5mm socket but a 7/32 socket is only .002" larger. If you're careful it works GREAT!
     
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  16. Dec 19, 2011 at 6:43 PM
    #76
    yamabiker

    yamabiker Well-Known Member

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  17. Jan 2, 2012 at 9:15 AM
    #77
    1904Tacoma

    1904Tacoma Herp & Derp

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    I fixed my problem without having to replace the resistor...for me it was the connection. that was causing a short...easy fix for me!
     
  18. Jan 2, 2012 at 12:51 PM
    #78
    johnny 5

    johnny 5 Well-Known Member

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    This is such a common failure lets all complain to Toyota till they do something for us. We all complain to each other let's complain to the source.
     
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  19. Jan 2, 2012 at 4:49 PM
    #79
    Asgard

    Asgard Well-Known Member

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    There is a TSB for the problem :
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Jan 2, 2012 at 5:29 PM
    #80
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    A lot of good that does those of us past 3 years or 36K miles.
    TSB's are starting to piss me off. If a TSB is issued, there should be a 1 year window where ALL vehicles are grandfathered in from the date the TSB was issued... regardless of age or mileage.

    Why would the TSB state 2005-2011 vehicles if ONLY 2008-2011 vehicles qualify for the TSB? That's total BS!!! Toyota acknowledges that 2005-2007 vehicles were designed poorly, but don't stand behind their product.
     
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