1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Centering my steering wheel after steering rack replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by cynicalrider, Nov 10, 2014.

  1. Nov 10, 2014 at 9:34 AM
    #1
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider [OP] #NFG

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2012
    Member:
    #83399
    Messages:
    16,492
    Gender:
    Male
    Jersey
    Vehicle:
    01 SR5 TRD 4x4, '23 Bronco Wildtrak, 2017 HSQV FE350
    Drop bracket lift and booger welds
    Alright so I followed originally when I did my steering rack this weekend.

    I decided I wanted to do everything while I was doing the rack so I got new OEM LBJ's and OTRE's.

    Everything was going really smoothly. We centered the wheel and strapped it down when we jacked the truck up. The lines came off pretty easy but the shaft that comes down on the splines was hardcore stuck. After 3 hours of many different methods including a pickle fork and an air hammer we finally got the damn thing off.

    I thought the replacement rack would have been centered from the place I got it from since it came with ITRE's and boots already. We got the shaft on the splines of the new rack and put it all back together. We used the old rack and tie rods as reference for the new OTRE's.

    Everything seemed to be great but now my steering wheel is way off from center. I want to get it lined back up but I'm not sure how to do it.

    The steering wheel very closely resembles this when tracking straight:

    steering_64090e94d20ca3b1cb39049026f0abd851314ca5.jpg

    Any help will be greatly appreciated. I really hope to not have to take the entire rack out again.
     
  2. Nov 10, 2014 at 10:05 AM
    #2
    keakar

    keakar Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2014
    Member:
    #139537
    Messages:
    5,259
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    karl
    louisiana
    Vehicle:
    2006 4runner sport 4.7L V8 (white)
    used to have - 99 2.4L I4 5 lug & 04 prerunner v6
    what I would do is with the steering tracking straight like in the picture and the wheels still on the ground to hold them in place, break loose both tie rod ends hanging free then without moving the tires adjust each to where its slips into the holders then it should be pretty darn close and you can test drive to see if it pulls at all and if the wheel is now straight.

    the steering was likely shifted to one side to fit the packaging better or just how it was assembled.

    when its finished the recommend thing is always to get an alignment with any front end work but when I do things like this I try to not let things move so they go back where they should be and if you do things right then its 50/50 you might get lucky and not need it but with your problem there was just way too much work done and parts replaced to think it doesn't need alignment
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2014
  3. Nov 10, 2014 at 10:23 AM
    #3
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider [OP] #NFG

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2012
    Member:
    #83399
    Messages:
    16,492
    Gender:
    Male
    Jersey
    Vehicle:
    01 SR5 TRD 4x4, '23 Bronco Wildtrak, 2017 HSQV FE350
    Drop bracket lift and booger welds
    I definitely plan on getting an alignment and want one. My main concern is the risk of being off a spline on the shaft and how to correct the issue.
     
  4. Nov 10, 2014 at 10:32 AM
    #4
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2013
    Member:
    #100471
    Messages:
    2,266
    Gender:
    Male
    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
    Vehicle:
    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    The TTORA write up is a good one
    The rack should always be centered right before installation. Lightly clamp some vise grips in the splined "control valve shaft", count the # of turns from lock to lock and split the difference. The rack is now centered.
    In your case I'll bet your 1 spline off so the lock to lock thing can be skipped. The splined coupler should not give you much trouble after you already broke it loose. Go back and read post # 59 here http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/252256-how-do-alignment-home-3.html
    You may or may not need to remove the 2 driver side rack mount bolts to get the shaft all the way off.
    With wheels straight ahead, visualize which way your going to turn the int shaft to get the steering wheel "close to straight". By your pic you might be off 1 or 2 splines, try one first. You will know right away if it's enough. No need to drive it or even tighten the bolt till you get it right.
    This is assuming that the OTRs are equal and the steering wheel was centered.
    At this point you can fine tune the steering wheel position (or leave it to the alignment shop) by turning the ITRs in the same direction the exact same amount. "Same direction" in this case means, if one side screws in the other side should screw out" see pic below. Don't get carried away here, try a half turn first to get a feel for what it does. These guys are very sensitive. I mark one of the flats on the ITRs and use the flats as index marks. Turning them just one "flat" (1/6 turn) will move the steering wheel a noticeable amount.

    For quick ref this is how turning the ITRs moves the steering wheel with out changing the toe setting.
    TOEADJ0044_zpse1d4b843_9b8a4bc80858fbc4e26e5d1472bba412bce33ac4.jpg
     
  5. Nov 10, 2014 at 11:21 AM
    #5
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider [OP] #NFG

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2012
    Member:
    #83399
    Messages:
    16,492
    Gender:
    Male
    Jersey
    Vehicle:
    01 SR5 TRD 4x4, '23 Bronco Wildtrak, 2017 HSQV FE350
    Drop bracket lift and booger welds
    Would it be safer to center the rack anyway just in case? Should I wait on getting the alignment before I fix this? It's my DD and I can't really not drive my truck all week.

    I drove it home from my cousins where we did the work and drove it to work today. Do I risk damaging some shit if I drive it this week?
     
  6. Nov 10, 2014 at 12:44 PM
    #6
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2013
    Member:
    #100471
    Messages:
    2,266
    Gender:
    Male
    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
    Vehicle:
    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Well sure it would be safer to do the whole process it but you got to figure it has to be close (with in 1 or 2 splines) because you secured the wheel. Moving it a spline or 2 is quick and will likely make your day.
    If you don't do it, a shop will likely just center the wheel using ITR adjustments. I suppose you could tell the shop what you did (the whole story) and what you want done in addition to the standard alignment. It may cost a few more $ but not much.
    As you might guess, some of us have less than no faith in the average alignment shop.

    As far as damage other than tire wear, I don't "think" you are off enough to damage the spiral cable. To be safe until you get it centered just don't use the last 1/2 turn in the steering wheel.

    Got to go.
     
  7. Nov 11, 2014 at 4:22 AM
    #7
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider [OP] #NFG

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2012
    Member:
    #83399
    Messages:
    16,492
    Gender:
    Male
    Jersey
    Vehicle:
    01 SR5 TRD 4x4, '23 Bronco Wildtrak, 2017 HSQV FE350
    Drop bracket lift and booger welds
    Thank you for explaining everything. I will likely take it to my cousins shop on Saturday to make the adjustment since he has a lift and air tools to make the process a bit easier on me.
     
  8. Nov 11, 2014 at 8:07 AM
    #8
    Mod

    Mod Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2010
    Member:
    #40950
    Messages:
    1,787
    Gender:
    Male
    CR, WA
    Vehicle:
    1999 8 port 3RZ 4WD SR5
    stock
    First rack i did years ago, I forgot to center before install. Some rebuilders put a warning sheet in the box or tagged to the rack to notify of this check.

    Recentering the steering wheel after the old rack is pulled off,,or checking for wheel center before the reinstall is a good quick check.

    Hard to believe your steering wheel is out that much about 1/2 turn it looks?

    Maybe the air drivers, BFH, and such moved it off center while you were greasy and under the rig.

    Can't forget about other front end wear either. It might be a tail chase to an extent.

    I would double check for center,,before turning flats and adjusting ends. Easier that way,,then if you still need to make adjustments take it to a hot rod-ish align shop,,as those guys are into it and will take the time to make it right or let you know. Its pretty crucial to shift those end links exactly. Not real difficult,,but not easy either.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top