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Trailer battery

Discussion in 'Towing' started by robm7, Aug 30, 2014.

  1. Aug 30, 2014 at 9:34 PM
    #1
    robm7

    robm7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Whose tacoma and RV set up to charge the trailer battery while driving?

    Is it true our Tacomas and 4runners have a fuse in engine compartment which does this?
     
  2. Aug 31, 2014 at 6:56 AM
    #2
    wtjl240

    wtjl240 Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure how the process actually works, but when I bought my camper, the dealer told me that the 7 pin harness on the truck will charge the battery while it's connected and the truck is on. I've had a dead battery on my camper with a power tongue jack that I couldn't move. Plugged it into the truck for a minute and had power.
     
  3. Aug 31, 2014 at 7:55 AM
    #3
    campthewestcoast

    campthewestcoast Oceanfisherman

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    Napa, CA
    Power extend/retract towing mirrors,brake controller,30amp charging system for TT,snug top camper
    It depends on the trailer amp draw while towing, most trailers have 2-way refrigerators that use propane while towing which works great with the stock tacoma charge wire on the trailer 7 pin connector
    But the problem I had, on my pop-up modified travel trailer I have a 3-way refrigerator. I run on 12volt power while towing because my propane vent is closed off. While the refrigerator is running on 12volt its using 16 amps and the stock tacoma charge line was not large enough so the refrigerator was using power from my trailer batteries. This cause only one problem, when I got to the campground I had no power to raise the top half of hard-sided pop-up(known as a Hi-Lo trailer)
    The fix,I added a 30amp curcuit breaker from the altenator with 8 gauge wire back to the 7-pin connector for the trailer plug. I had to changeout the stock 7-pin connector to an aftermarket one to support the large 8 gauge wire for charge line. Now I have power to run the refrigerator and charge my trailer batteries. Pictures of my rig with retro-fitted 98 chevy powervision towing mirrors are in my gallery
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2014
  4. Aug 31, 2014 at 8:27 AM
    #4
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    Locking Tailgate & Gas Cap and extra bed D-rings
    Wire sizing is determine voltage loss. The voltage, duration, load and temperature will affect your ability to fully recharge the deep cycle trailer "house" battery while driving. Load and temperature will affect the battery sizing. Tips: Fuse at the sources; vent the battery, especially if wet and in a living space; isolate the house battery; and opportunity charge it with a "shore power" charger whenever practical.
     
  5. Sep 10, 2014 at 11:47 AM
    #5
    Indy

    Indy Master of all I survey.

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    The wiring to the trailer is usually relatively small. Don't think of it being a charge wire for a dead battery, more of a top off/maintainer for a decently charged battery. And just having a 7 pin doesn't mean you have a charge wire. I've run more than 1 truck/trailer with a 7 pin that only had the basic 4 connected. It's easier imo to have all trailers use 1 plug instead of dealing with adapters. Even my little 4x8's have a 7 pin plug. But if all pins are used you have the basic light functions, 12v power and reverse lights.
     
  6. Sep 10, 2014 at 5:18 PM
    #6
    johnnychimpo711

    johnnychimpo711 Well-Known Member

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    Removed the dealer tag holder…that’s it.
    Only if you have a true factory tow package. If you don't, you can always add the high capacity vehicle battery, the 130 amp alternator, and some 8-10awg wiring. You would also have to add your own fuse/relays. Pin 4 is typically reserved for 12v aux power.

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Chevy/tech/Prodigy/images/7-way.jpg
     
  7. Aug 3, 2020 at 9:33 PM
    #7
    JEEPNIK

    JEEPNIK Well-Known Member

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    I could look this up or simply ask. What’s the rating on stock alternators?
    I’ve always run a high output aftermarket one on my Jeep. Two batteries. One for cranking the other for my aftermarket stuff.
     

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