The Tacoma Towing Bible

Yes. The Hoppy connectors essentially plug in place between the truck's harness, and the bulbs so you'll have to remove the lights to connect the plugs, and then re-install them. It keeps the connections up in a more sheltered location.

 

Here is my review of the Timbren spring helpers.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...en-spring-helpers-review-pics.html#post290151

 

my little contribution to an updated wiring instalation guide:

http://www.hiddenhitch.com/fitguides/pdf/N118393.pdf

 

Adam, thank you for the Towing Bible, it's very well done and helpful.

We tow a Fleetwood Niagara popup with a GVWR just under 4,000 pounds. We now have a single arm Reese WDH. We got the WDH because the Tacoma was really bouncing up and down with feedback from the camper and was really uncomfortable, the WDH really made a significant difference. I am wondering if the TSB would have made a difference, and would the TSB make a difference if I moved up to a small TT with a GVWR of 5,000 pounds? (I've always religiously observed that the 'real' capacity of the Tacoma was approx 80% of the factory rating.) Perhaps I should go for the TSB anyhow.

You gave me good stuff to think about, thank you again and a most Happy New Year to you.

Jon

 

You're welcome. The TSB is something I definately advise as you increase toward full tow rating. Our travel trailer is a lightweight at 3750 wet and ready to camp, so I am content with just my reese weight distribution hitch and dual-cam sway controll. However, when Towing my father's 24 foot enclosed car hauler with a 54 chevy in it, I definately feel the need for the TSB which I will get arround to having done when I find the time, and probably before this year's camping season starts.

Regards,

Adam

 

nice write up. thanks alot...

 

A great, big thanks to Maverick491 for a tremendous effort putting the "Towing Bible" together! There's an absolute boat-load of good info there.

After reading it 2-3 times, I still have a question regarding the installation of an aux tranny cooler - where does it go? If one isn't a "fair shade tree mechanic," where might a reputable installer be found?

In case it's not easily ascertained, I have a 2008 access cab, 4 L V6, 2 WD, no OEM towing package.

Thanks for any additional info!

 

All automatic transmission have a primary cooler that is contained within the lower core of the truck (or car's) radiator. You are looking for a set of smaller hoses (considerably smaller than the 2 inch diameter radiator hoses) running into and then out of the bottom of the radiator, and connecting to the tranny. You would remove one of those hoses, connect the end you removed to one side of the trans cooler, and then connect the hose supplied with the kit to the other side of the trans cooler, and the original connection point in the bottom of the radiator that you previously disconnected from. Making sure to keep any hose bends to no more than a gradual gentle curve. Then add the correct amount of the correct type of fluid to the system, have someone start and put the truck in gear, and check for leaks.

As far as where to have it done, any mechanic that you trust (ie: the corner garage that you've been going to for years) should be able to handle it for you for roughly an hour's labor rate. As a general rule (and there are always exceptions) I would shy away from any of the chain transmission places, as any of those places generally do not have the world's best mechanics, but then again what should you expect for minumum wage highschool kids. That might just be an un-fair judgement on my part, but I wouldn't trust the kid at best-buy to touch my stereo or alarm either.

Good luck and safe towing,

Adam

 

Hello All,

maverick491, thanks for posting this bible as it has been very helpful to myself and I assume many others here.

I am new to this forum and to towing. I will be moving soon from San Diego to Georgia (WOBC) but I will be taking the scenic route across the southern areas of the country. I will be moving my household goods in a trailer which I will rent from U-Haul as it will eventually get reimbursed through my travel expenses.

After doing some research on the parts and the suggestions by maverick491, I am still unsure if I am getting everything correct prior to purchasing. I would like to save money without sacrificing quality as I would like to tow recreational vehicles later on, so I would like to get a nice towing package without breaking the bank but not having to upgrade later.

I own a 2006 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner w/ Access Cab 4cyl/5spd. Here is my list that I have put together. Let me know if I am missing anything here or if I am off on a part number as some of the links within the bible above have changed and do not function any more.

Thanks in advance

Hitch:
Hidden Hitch Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver Code: 87581
Price: $160.95
http://www.hidden-hitch.com/product.aspx?pc=87581

Ball Mount:
Hidden Hitch Ballmount Class III 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop - Extra Extra Long, 6,000 lbs. Code: 80232
Price:$26.95
http://www.hidden-hitch.com/p-80232...ise_or_2_Drop__Extra_Extra_Long_6000_lbs.html

or

DrawTite Ball Mount 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop, 6,000 lbs. Code: 2923
Price:$15.95
http://www.hidden-hitch.com/p-2923/Ball_Mount_34_Rise_or_2_Drop_6000_lbs.html

Wiring:
http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.c...ing_kits/toyota_t-100_94-98_tacoma_05-08.html
Hopkins Plug-In Simple 43355 T Connector Wiring Kit For Toyota T100, '94-98/05-08
Price: $43.99
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(5jutbyi3hqgwha30fbufli55)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=8094773

Adapters:??
Hoppy Wiring System Adapters - 4-Wire Flat to 7-Way Blade (RV) Part Number: 47205
Price: $19.99
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=HOP&MfrPartNumber=47205&CategoryCode=4062A

**Trying to order from same place but not seeing same item. Am I getting these items correct?**
http://www.etrailer.com/finder_adapter.asp?vw=7B&tw=4F

No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long (Piece 1 of 2) Code: 18138
Price: $4.99
http://www.etrailer.com/p-18136.htm

Mounting Bracket for 7-Way (2 of 2) Code: 18136
Price: $8.99
http://www.etrailer.com/p-18138.htm

Lock:??
**Not sure which lock to purchase**

 

everything you have chosen is correct. stick with the cheeper of the two ball mounts. the extra long one is un-necessary for most applications, and can contribute to porposing (the trailer bouncing the truck).

you'll also neet a ball, likely 2", but confirm that with u-haul.

any lock you want will be fine for the hidden hitch. the only issue with locks has been on the Toyota factory hitch as it is wider than satandard.

I'll try to fix the links when I have a chance so that they go to the right places again.

regards,

adam

 

You mentioned you want to pull recreational vehicles sometime in the future. Just remember that you've selected a Class III hitch which has a maximum rating of 5000# capacity despite the fact that the drawbar you selected says 6000#. Links are only as good as the weakest point.

The factory hitch that comes with the Tacoma tow package is actually a Class IV hitch which is required to reach the maximum tow capacity rating of 6500#. If you decide to get a trailer at some point just remember that you've put a 5000# hitch on and don't look a the tow capacity of the truck.

 

The 4cyl Tacomas are "formally" rated for 3,500lbs towing (and that's ball-mount on the bumper). However, the 6cyl Tacomas are rated for 6,500lbs (with tow package added). A tow package is not available from the factory for the 2.7L Tacomas. And the 2.7L engine has exactly 66% of the HP and torque of the 6cyl.

My question is this, if a class III trailer hitch is added to the 4cyl Tacoma (incl brake controller), why would it not be rated for 66% of the tow rating of the 6cyl, or 4,300lbs (especially given the 5spd manual trans)? It's my understanding that the frames are the same with respect to elements that could affect tow capacity (i.e., not elements that might be related to managing the increased torque of the 6cyl engine).

Thank you

 

Springs, transmission, electrical system, brake size, and wheelbase all go into computing the tow rating of a vehicle. It is more than just horsepower and torque. 5 lug 4x2 trucks have considerably smaller brakes than their v6 equipped counterparts. Regular cab 4x4 and pre-runners have slightly smaller brakes than their access cab, and double cab counterparts. The tranny is what takes the power, and torque from the engine and moves the truck and everything in it, and hooked to it. perhaps the 5 speed manual and the 4 speed auto are not rated to move that much weight. The shorter wheelbase of the regular cab truck has the potential to completely handle like a turd if the wd hitch and sway contol are not set up perfectly.

Now all that said 4300 lbs is only 800 lbs over tow rating but that is nearly an additional quarter of what the truck is designed to handle. If you set it up correctly you can probably pull it off, but I wouldn't do it if it were my truck, and i certainly wouldn't make a habit of it. I think you need to consider a different trailer.

 

Not to mention curb weight. You can have all the power in the world, but if you're truck weighs too much less than the load you're pulling it's gonna handle like crap. The trailer is gonna push the truck all over the road.

Even with my V6 DC rated at 6500 lbs UHaul had a hard time allowing me to rent their auto transport to tow a Chevy Lumina because the combine weight of car and trailer was so much more than the truck according to their computer. Once they read the door tag and decided the truck was around 1,000lbs heavier than their computer said it was, they let me. Although even then they had to over-ride the system because the load was still around 30lbs heavier than the truck. They NEVER would've let me rent the transport if they knew I was really hauling an old full size Ford Custom.

Not to say it can't, but for liability reasons Toyota can't advertise or recommend that much weight on the truck. Just like UHaul couldn't let me rent the trailer until they tweaked the weight. If they did and something happened it could come back on them for letting me rent the transport.

 

Thank you. But that's really my point, I acknowledge that the 4cyl version is expectedly not as capable, but would highly doubt that the 4cyl versions are less than 66% of the 6cyl trucks in both terms of structural and the other elements that you cite, leaving only the HP / torque rating as the weakest point. Therefore, with the proper hitch would it not be capable of 4,300lbs max if the 6cyl version is capable of 6,500lbs? Keep in mind that the tow rating is also 3,500 for the 6cyl versions if no tow package is added (i.e., the 3,500 ceiling is related to bumper mount limitations and not the overall structural integrity or pull capacity of both vehicles). On a side note, I would be looking to tow 4,000lbs and not the full 4,300lbs.

 

Thank you. But I think that's really a different issue. The 6cyl versions do not weigh that much more and, I believe, also reflect a lower in-truck total payload capacity (as a recall in the manual) due to the increased weight of the drive train. But your point as to whether someone should actually tow a load matching the manf. tow rating is a good one However, a 4,300lb tow load would be 2,200lbs under what Toyota rates the 6cyl at and which, again, does not weigh 50% more than the 4cyl.

 

Daryl, I had a 2600 pound pop up with a four Tacoma engine at one point and while it could move stuff around out here in the flat lands, it could pass NOTHING not to mention the obstacle we'd have been on any kind of hills. I upgraded to my present V-6 Tacoma (with two package) and the difference on the highway was night and day. You know, you have to kind of enjoy using the Tacoma, when lumber trucks are passing you, it's not enjoyable.

 

If you're looking to pull 4000 lbs, instead of the 4300 you initially asked about then you may be closer to the realm of posibility than you were before, assuming that the 4000 lbs you are asking about is the GVWR of the trailer, and not it's dry weight. However, I did already answer this for you, you get to 6500lbs, by factoring horsepower, torque, transmission, electrical, braking, wheelbase, and springs together with trailer attachment point to the truck.

You are missing the big picture here. Neither of the v6 transmissions (the 5 speed auto, or the 6 speed manual) are available on a 4 cyl truck, and that could be part of the limiting factors. Regular cab springs are a different animal from the double or access cab springs as evidenced by the different part numbers and the fact that the regular cab springs are not covered in the spring TSB. You seem hung up on just the horsepower and torque, and the hitch/bumper. These are just parts in a much larger equation, and you really need to consider everything else as well. All that said, you seem to be hoping that someone will agree with you, and you seem intent on this truck and this trailer combination, so put a hitch on your truck, go to the dealer and go for a test tow. I can only offer you my experience, and that comes from our current trailer which is 3100lbs dry, and 3750lbs wet and ready to camp. We bought this trailer around my 2004 4x4 2.7L, 5 speed Tacoma (tow rating of 3500) lbs, I figured what's 250lbs? We'll be fine. Well on the trip home from the dealer, with the trailer dry and empty, so 3100lbs on a 3500lbs tow rating, (400lbs under what it was rated for) I felt that that combination was unsafe, and that the truck couldn't get out of it's own way, that the trailer was pushing the truck, and that if i needed to accelerate to keep my family out of danger I would not be able to do so. So I immediately went out and traded my 04 in on an 07 with the v6 and the tow package. Now I am more than aware, that the gen 2 trucks are heavier so the trailer pushing the truck around should be reduced, and that the 2.7L 4 cyl was tweaked to make more power, but in my opinion it is probably now able to handle it's advertised 3500lbs now not 500lbs more.

I urge you to not do this as in doing so you not only gamble with your life but with the lives of my friends and family who share the roads with you.

 

Maybe I missed this in the comments but I belive the transmissions on the 4cyl and 6cyl are different animals. The 6cyl engine is the same one used on pre 07 Tundra's and so is the tranny which is one of the reasons it's rated for 6500#. The pre07 Tundra is rated for 6800# but that's only because it can be optioned with a V8 engine.

 

Thanks Adam. Yes, safety is my #1 concern and is the reason for my use of the forum. And the 4,000lbs would be the actual GVW (GVWR that you mention is the max rating of a trailer) and not the empty weight of the flatbed trailer which is 1,600lbs.

But I'm not sure why you presume I'm missing the bigger picture given that I'm overtly taking into account the "limiting factors" by using 2/3rds (and actually less at 4,000lbs) the rating of the 6cyl truck. I.e., are you suggesting that the 4cyl version is actually less than 2/3rds the 6cyl truck with respect to structural and all of the other items you list? On a related note, the empty weight of the 6cyl version (incl the added weight for the extended cab) is only 14% heavier than the 4cyl. So, I would propose that the most limiting factor is actually the HP / torque which is why I am specifically using it.

I did test pull a 2,000lb empty weight enclosed dual-axle trailer (only bumper mounted) and the 2006 4cyl did surprisingly well, including no trailer brakes for the test and both gravel and asphalt road. I owned a 2001 6cyl Tacoma Prerunner just prior to the 2006 4cyl and, you know as I do having owned both, that the newer model trucks (2005 and later) are notable larger and beefier. It was also very apparent to me when driving it for the first time that the power of my 2006 4cyl 5spd manual is not that much less than my 2001 6cyl automatic was, and turns out that the 2001 6cyl only had 19% more power (and there is also power loss due to the auto trans, and was only 4spd auto). And the empty weight of my 2001 6cyl (with again the extended cab) was only 5% heavier than my current 2006 4cyl, and the 2001 had a tow capacity of 5,000lbs.

By the way, Adam, I do have to ask, when you pulled the 3,750lb trailer with the older truck did you have a Class II (minimum) hitch with brake controller and trailer brakes? Some states require brakes for trailers with a GVW over 1,500lbs, and they are always required in all circumstances for any trailer with a GVW over 3,000lbs. Trailer brakes that are properly set will not allow a 3,100lb GVW trailer to push a truck around during braking. I do, however, acknowledge that acceleration is a different issue. But, again, we're talking 2/3rds the power / torque with less than 2/3rds the load.

I do absolutely appreciate your advice, help and time. I am not trying to force agreement, but rather simply want to make sure we are actually giving full consideration to all of the factors as opposed to simply presuming a tow rating without qualification (e.g., could it be that Toyota simply determined not to add a tow package that technically would have allowed a 4,300lb tow capacity for the 4cyl in line with the 6cyl 6,500lb capacity, and therefore by default results in a 3,500lb limit due to the bumper mount limitations?).