The Tacoma Towing Bible

[boydg2106]

Thank you Adam for the input!! I was really hoping you would tell me to install a relay and all would work well. I guess I outsmarted myself assuming the plug would be live. I'll wire it as per the bible...thanks again.
Gary

[boydg2106]

Originally Posted by Roland

I'm buying a hitch so that when I find my next daysailer I'll be ready to bring it home. Maverick's link for the hidden hitch via etrailer.com has a good price and with a $150 purchase offers free shipping (savings of $30.06). On the purchase page they recommend this wiring adapter for 39.95. Has anyone bought it while ordering a hitch?

Figuring in the savings on shipping it ends up costing 10 bucks vs. 50 for the hoppy adapter. Opinions?

Thanks for all the towing info Maverick!

If anyone needs one of the wiring harnesses for brakes there is one on eBay for $0.99 and $5.00 shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&it em=300270260253
I went with a genuine trailer hitch with 7 pin connector used from eBay $129 it bolts up really nice. I also decided on the genuine Toyota harness it's $92 but it includes a relay and flasher and fits really slick. Also all the connections are made behind the kick panel...very important here in the frozen north with all the salt on the roads. Also the hitch and wiring harness say not for x-runner but they work perfectly?? Thanks again for your help.

[Roland]

Today I installed the hitch. It took me a couple hours but that was because the idiots at the body shop that replaced the bumper after I was tapped last year screwed things up. 'nuf said about that because the hitch is in place and my bumper is finally square and level.

I was going to install the Hoppy wiring harness but the connecters are not where I expected to find them from looking at Hoppy's install diagram. I was cold, tired and a bit irritated about the bumper issues so I stopped before screwing something up.
From poking around it looks like the connecters must be up behind the tail lights and I'll have to remove the lights to get at them. Is this correct?

[maverick491]

Originally Posted by Roland

Today I installed the hitch. It took me a couple hours but that was because the idiots at the body shop that replaced the bumper after I was tapped last year screwed things up. 'nuf said about that because the hitch is in place and my bumper is finally square and level.

I was going to install the Hoppy wiring harness but the connecters are not where I expected to find them from looking at Hoppy's install diagram. I was cold, tired and a bit irritated about the bumper issues so I stopped before screwing something up.
From poking around it looks like the connecters must be up behind the tail lights and I'll have to remove the lights to get at them. Is this correct?

Yes. The Hoppy connectors essentially plug in place between the truck's harness, and the bulbs so you'll have to remove the lights to connect the plugs, and then re-install them. It keeps the connections up in a more sheltered location.

[tsilliker]

Here is my review of the Timbren spring helpers.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...tml#post290151

[br217398]

my little contribution to an updated wiring instalation guide:

http://www.hiddenhitch.com/fitguides/pdf/N118393.pdf

[jonl9]

Adam, thank you for the Towing Bible, it's very well done and helpful.

We tow a Fleetwood Niagara popup with a GVWR just under 4,000 pounds. We now have a single arm Reese WDH. We got the WDH because the Tacoma was really bouncing up and down with feedback from the camper and was really uncomfortable, the WDH really made a significant difference. I am wondering if the TSB would have made a difference, and would the TSB make a difference if I moved up to a small TT with a GVWR of 5,000 pounds? (I've always religiously observed that the 'real' capacity of the Tacoma was approx 80% of the factory rating.) Perhaps I should go for the TSB anyhow.

You gave me good stuff to think about, thank you again and a most Happy New Year to you.

Jon

[maverick491]

Originally Posted by jonl9

Adam, thank you for the Towing Bible, it's very well done and helpful.

We tow a Fleetwood Niagara popup with a GVWR just under 4,000 pounds. We now have a single arm Reese WDH. We got the WDH because the Tacoma was really bouncing up and down with feedback from the camper and was really uncomfortable, the WDH really made a significant difference. I am wondering if the TSB would have made a difference, and would the TSB make a difference if I moved up to a small TT with a GVWR of 5,000 pounds? (I've always religiously observed that the 'real' capacity of the Tacoma was approx 80% of the factory rating.) Perhaps I should go for the TSB anyhow.

You gave me good stuff to think about, thank you again and a most Happy New Year to you.

Jon

You're welcome. The TSB is something I definately advise as you increase toward full tow rating. Our travel trailer is a lightweight at 3750 wet and ready to camp, so I am content with just my reese weight distribution hitch and dual-cam sway controll. However, when Towing my father's 24 foot enclosed car hauler with a 54 chevy in it, I definately feel the need for the TSB which I will get arround to having done when I find the time, and probably before this year's camping season starts.

Regards,

Adam

[Y0TA]

nice write up. thanks alot...

[rlholling]

A great, big thanks to Maverick491 for a tremendous effort putting the "Towing Bible" together! There's an absolute boat-load of good info there.

After reading it 2-3 times, I still have a question regarding the installation of an aux tranny cooler - where does it go? If one isn't a "fair shade tree mechanic," where might a reputable installer be found?

In case it's not easily ascertained, I have a 2008 access cab, 4 L V6, 2 WD, no OEM towing package.

Thanks for any additional info!

[maverick491]

Originally Posted by rlholling

A great, big thanks to Maverick491 for a tremendous effort putting the "Towing Bible" together! There's an absolute boat-load of good info there.

After reading it 2-3 times, I still have a question regarding the installation of an aux tranny cooler - where does it go? If one isn't a "fair shade tree mechanic," where might a reputable installer be found?

In case it's not easily ascertained, I have a 2008 access cab, 4 L V6, 2 WD, no OEM towing package.

Thanks for any additional info!

All automatic transmission have a primary cooler that is contained within the lower core of the truck (or car's) radiator. You are looking for a set of smaller hoses (considerably smaller than the 2 inch diameter radiator hoses) running into and then out of the bottom of the radiator, and connecting to the tranny. You would remove one of those hoses, connect the end you removed to one side of the trans cooler, and then connect the hose supplied with the kit to the other side of the trans cooler, and the original connection point in the bottom of the radiator that you previously disconnected from. Making sure to keep any hose bends to no more than a gradual gentle curve. Then add the correct amount of the correct type of fluid to the system, have someone start and put the truck in gear, and check for leaks.

As far as where to have it done, any mechanic that you trust (ie: the corner garage that you've been going to for years) should be able to handle it for you for roughly an hour's labor rate. As a general rule (and there are always exceptions) I would shy away from any of the chain transmission places, as any of those places generally do not have the world's best mechanics, but then again what should you expect for minumum wage highschool kids. That might just be an un-fair judgement on my part, but I wouldn't trust the kid at best-buy to touch my stereo or alarm either.

Good luck and safe towing,

Adam

[KLRWLF]

Hello All,

maverick491, thanks for posting this bible as it has been very helpful to myself and I assume many others here.

I am new to this forum and to towing. I will be moving soon from San Diego to Georgia (WOBC) but I will be taking the scenic route across the southern areas of the country. I will be moving my household goods in a trailer which I will rent from U-Haul as it will eventually get reimbursed through my travel expenses.

After doing some research on the parts and the suggestions by maverick491, I am still unsure if I am getting everything correct prior to purchasing. I would like to save money without sacrificing quality as I would like to tow recreational vehicles later on, so I would like to get a nice towing package without breaking the bank but not having to upgrade later.

I own a 2006 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner w/ Access Cab 4cyl/5spd. Here is my list that I have put together. Let me know if I am missing anything here or if I am off on a part number as some of the links within the bible above have changed and do not function any more.

Thanks in advance

Hitch:
Hidden Hitch Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver Code: 87581
Price: $160.95
http://www.hidden-hitch.com/product.aspx?pc=87581

Ball Mount:
Hidden Hitch Ballmount Class III 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop - Extra Extra Long, 6,000 lbs. Code: 80232
Price:$26.95
http://www.hidden-hitch.com/p-80232/..._6000_lbs.html

or

DrawTite Ball Mount 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop, 6,000 lbs. Code: 2923
Price:$15.95
http://www.hidden-hitch.com/p-2923/B..._6000_lbs.html

Wiring:
http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.co...oma_05-08.html
Hopkins Plug-In Simple 43355 T Connector Wiring Kit For Toyota T100, '94-98/05-08
Price: $43.99
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(5jutbyi3hqgwha30fbufli55)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=8094773

Adapters:??
Hoppy Wiring System Adapters - 4-Wire Flat to 7-Way Blade (RV) Part Number: 47205
Price: $19.99
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productd...goryCode=4062A

**Trying to order from same place but not seeing same item. Am I getting these items correct?**
http://www.etrailer.com/finder_adapter.asp?vw=7B&tw=4F

No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long (Piece 1 of 2) Code: 18138
Price: $4.99
http://www.etrailer.com/p-18136.htm

Mounting Bracket for 7-Way (2 of 2) Code: 18136
Price: $8.99
http://www.etrailer.com/p-18138.htm

Lock:??
**Not sure which lock to purchase**

[maverick491]

Originally Posted by KLRWLF

Hello All,

maverick491, thanks for posting this bible as it has been very helpful to myself and I assume many others here.

I am new to this forum and to towing. I will be moving soon from San Diego to Georgia (WOBC) but I will be taking the scenic route across the southern areas of the country. I will be moving my household goods in a trailer which I will rent from U-Haul as it will eventually get reimbursed through my travel expenses.

After doing some research on the parts and the suggestions by maverick491, I am still unsure if I am getting everything correct prior to purchasing. I would like to save money without sacrificing quality as I would like to tow recreational vehicles later on, so I would like to get a nice towing package without breaking the bank but not having to upgrade later.

I own a 2006 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner w/ Access Cab 4cyl/5spd. Here is my list that I have put together. Let me know if I am missing anything here or if I am off on a part number as some of the links within the bible above have changed and do not function any more.

Thanks in advance

Hitch:
Hidden Hitch Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver Code: 87581
Price: $160.95
http://www.hidden-hitch.com/product.aspx?pc=87581

Ball Mount:
Hidden Hitch Ballmount Class III 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop - Extra Extra Long, 6,000 lbs. Code: 80232
Price:$26.95
http://www.hidden-hitch.com/p-80232/..._6000_lbs.html

or

DrawTite Ball Mount 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop, 6,000 lbs. Code: 2923
Price:$15.95
http://www.hidden-hitch.com/p-2923/B..._6000_lbs.html

Wiring:
http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.co...oma_05-08.html
Hopkins Plug-In Simple 43355 T Connector Wiring Kit For Toyota T100, '94-98/05-08
Price: $43.99
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(5jutbyi3hqgwha30fbufli55)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=8094773

Adapters:??
Hoppy Wiring System Adapters - 4-Wire Flat to 7-Way Blade (RV) Part Number: 47205
Price: $19.99
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productd...goryCode=4062A

**Trying to order from same place but not seeing same item. Am I getting these items correct?**
http://www.etrailer.com/finder_adapter.asp?vw=7B&tw=4F

No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long (Piece 1 of 2) Code: 18138
Price: $4.99
http://www.etrailer.com/p-18136.htm

Mounting Bracket for 7-Way (2 of 2) Code: 18136
Price: $8.99
http://www.etrailer.com/p-18138.htm

Lock:??
**Not sure which lock to purchase**

everything you have chosen is correct. stick with the cheeper of the two ball mounts. the extra long one is un-necessary for most applications, and can contribute to porposing (the trailer bouncing the truck).

you'll also neet a ball, likely 2", but confirm that with u-haul.

any lock you want will be fine for the hidden hitch. the only issue with locks has been on the Toyota factory hitch as it is wider than satandard.

I'll try to fix the links when I have a chance so that they go to the right places again.

regards,

adam

[j4x4ar3]

You mentioned you want to pull recreational vehicles sometime in the future. Just remember that you've selected a Class III hitch which has a maximum rating of 5000# capacity despite the fact that the drawbar you selected says 6000#. Links are only as good as the weakest point.

The factory hitch that comes with the Tacoma tow package is actually a Class IV hitch which is required to reach the maximum tow capacity rating of 6500#. If you decide to get a trailer at some point just remember that you've put a 5000# hitch on and don't look a the tow capacity of the truck.

[Daryl]

The 4cyl Tacomas are "formally" rated for 3,500lbs towing (and that's ball-mount on the bumper). However, the 6cyl Tacomas are rated for 6,500lbs (with tow package added). A tow package is not available from the factory for the 2.7L Tacomas. And the 2.7L engine has exactly 66% of the HP and torque of the 6cyl.

My question is this, if a class III trailer hitch is added to the 4cyl Tacoma (incl brake controller), why would it not be rated for 66% of the tow rating of the 6cyl, or 4,300lbs (especially given the 5spd manual trans)? It's my understanding that the frames are the same with respect to elements that could affect tow capacity (i.e., not elements that might be related to managing the increased torque of the 6cyl engine).

Thank you

[maverick491]

Originally Posted by Daryl

The 4cyl Tacomas are "formally" rated for 3,500lbs towing (and that's ball-mount on the bumper). However, the 6cyl Tacomas are rated for 6,500lbs (with tow package added). A tow package is not available from the factory for the 2.7L Tacomas. And the 2.7L engine has exactly 66% of the HP and torque of the 6cyl.

My question is this, if a class III trailer hitch is added to the 4cyl Tacoma (incl brake controller), why would it not be rated for 66% of the tow rating of the 6cyl, or 4,300lbs (especially given the 5spd manual trans)? It's my understanding that the frames are the same with respect to elements that could affect tow capacity (i.e., not elements that might be related to managing the increased torque of the 6cyl engine).

Thank you

Springs, transmission, electrical system, brake size, and wheelbase all go into computing the tow rating of a vehicle. It is more than just horsepower and torque. 5 lug 4x2 trucks have considerably smaller brakes than their v6 equipped counterparts. Regular cab 4x4 and pre-runners have slightly smaller brakes than their access cab, and double cab counterparts. The tranny is what takes the power, and torque from the engine and moves the truck and everything in it, and hooked to it. perhaps the 5 speed manual and the 4 speed auto are not rated to move that much weight. The shorter wheelbase of the regular cab truck has the potential to completely handle like a turd if the wd hitch and sway contol are not set up perfectly.

Now all that said 4300 lbs is only 800 lbs over tow rating but that is nearly an additional quarter of what the truck is designed to handle. If you set it up correctly you can probably pull it off, but I wouldn't do it if it were my truck, and i certainly wouldn't make a habit of it. I think you need to consider a different trailer.

[piercedtiger]

Originally Posted by maverick491

Springs, transmission, electrical system, brake size, and wheelbase all go into computing the tow rating of a vehicle. It is more than just horsepower and torque. 5 lug 4x2 trucks have considerably smaller brakes than their v6 equipped counterparts. Regular cab 4x4 and pre-runners have slightly smaller brakes than their access cab, and double cab counterparts. The tranny is what takes the power, and torque from the engine and moves the truck and everything in it, and hooked to it. perhaps the 5 speed manual and the 4 speed auto are not rated to move that much weight. The shorter wheelbase of the regular cab truck has the potential to completely handle like a turd if the wd hitch and sway contol are not set up perfectly.

Now all that said 4300 lbs is only 800 lbs over tow rating but that is nearly an additional quarter of what the truck is designed to handle. If you set it up correctly you can probably pull it off, but I wouldn't do it if it were my truck, and i certainly wouldn't make a habit of it. I think you need to consider a different trailer.

Not to mention curb weight. You can have all the power in the world, but if you're truck weighs too much less than the load you're pulling it's gonna handle like crap. The trailer is gonna push the truck all over the road.

Even with my V6 DC rated at 6500 lbs UHaul had a hard time allowing me to rent their auto transport to tow a Chevy Lumina because the combine weight of car and trailer was so much more than the truck according to their computer. Once they read the door tag and decided the truck was around 1,000lbs heavier than their computer said it was, they let me. Although even then they had to over-ride the system because the load was still around 30lbs heavier than the truck. They NEVER would've let me rent the transport if they knew I was really hauling an old full size Ford Custom.

Not to say it can't, but for liability reasons Toyota can't advertise or recommend that much weight on the truck. Just like UHaul couldn't let me rent the trailer until they tweaked the weight. If they did and something happened it could come back on them for letting me rent the transport.

[Daryl]

Originally Posted by maverick491

Springs, transmission, electrical system, brake size, and wheelbase all go into computing the tow rating of a vehicle. It is more than just horsepower and torque. 5 lug 4x2 trucks have considerably smaller brakes than their v6 equipped counterparts. Regular cab 4x4 and pre-runners have slightly smaller brakes than their access cab, and double cab counterparts. The tranny is what takes the power, and torque from the engine and moves the truck and everything in it, and hooked to it. perhaps the 5 speed manual and the 4 speed auto are not rated to move that much weight. The shorter wheelbase of the regular cab truck has the potential to completely handle like a turd if the wd hitch and sway contol are not set up perfectly.

Now all that said 4300 lbs is only 800 lbs over tow rating but that is nearly an additional quarter of what the truck is designed to handle. If you set it up correctly you can probably pull it off, but I wouldn't do it if it were my truck, and i certainly wouldn't make a habit of it. I think you need to consider a different trailer.

Thank you. But that's really my point, I acknowledge that the 4cyl version is expectedly not as capable, but would highly doubt that the 4cyl versions are less than 66% of the 6cyl trucks in both terms of structural and the other elements that you cite, leaving only the HP / torque rating as the weakest point. Therefore, with the proper hitch would it not be capable of 4,300lbs max if the 6cyl version is capable of 6,500lbs? Keep in mind that the tow rating is also 3,500 for the 6cyl versions if no tow package is added (i.e., the 3,500 ceiling is related to bumper mount limitations and not the overall structural integrity or pull capacity of both vehicles). On a side note, I would be looking to tow 4,000lbs and not the full 4,300lbs.

[Daryl]

Originally Posted by piercedtiger

Not to mention curb weight. You can have all the power in the world, but if you're truck weighs too much less than the load you're pulling it's gonna handle like crap. The trailer is gonna push the truck all over the road.

Even with my V6 DC rated at 6500 lbs UHaul had a hard time allowing me to rent their auto transport to tow a Chevy Lumina because the combine weight of car and trailer was so much more than the truck according to their computer. Once they read the door tag and decided the truck was around 1,000lbs heavier than their computer said it was, they let me. Although even then they had to over-ride the system because the load was still around 30lbs heavier than the truck. They NEVER would've let me rent the transport if they knew I was really hauling an old full size Ford Custom.

Not to say it can't, but for liability reasons Toyota can't advertise or recommend that much weight on the truck. Just like UHaul couldn't let me rent the trailer until they tweaked the weight. If they did and something happened it could come back on them for letting me rent the transport.

Thank you. But I think that's really a different issue. The 6cyl versions do not weigh that much more and, I believe, also reflect a lower in-truck total payload capacity (as a recall in the manual) due to the increased weight of the drive train. But your point as to whether someone should actually tow a load matching the manf. tow rating is a good one However, a 4,300lb tow load would be 2,200lbs under what Toyota rates the 6cyl at and which, again, does not weigh 50% more than the 4cyl.

[jonl9]

Daryl, I had a 2600 pound pop up with a four Tacoma engine at one point and while it could move stuff around out here in the flat lands, it could pass NOTHING not to mention the obstacle we'd have been on any kind of hills. I upgraded to my present V-6 Tacoma (with two package) and the difference on the highway was night and day. You know, you have to kind of enjoy using the Tacoma, when lumber trucks are passing you, it's not enjoyable.