Another Kickass Audio Build

Got my Tacoma in, so its time for a NEW build! Waiting for the truck to arrive gave me plenty (too much) time to lay this system out!

I decided that I wanted a simple SQ system with a clean install.. and it needs to be active. I'm thinking of a 2way + sub system with a powerful DSP. I'll make sure to post up the tuning when I get to that point.

I went back and,forth with using OEM HU. Audiophile sound is not really synonymous with OEM integration but still can sound pretty sound good (S/N noise has always been the killer for me). I will try it for this initial build, but if it doesn't work, I'll go straight to the Pioneer NEX4100. The one feature that I will be missing out on is FLAC!

For me, subwoofer and door speaker locations are really straight forward, but the front stage locations are tricky.. I do not have much experience trying to get a good stage bouncing sound off the windshield (I've seen competition cars successfully do it though).. So, I was thinking, what the hell, why not a nice 3" wideband in the left and right AC ports! That's right, you heard me!

The speakers at this location has great potential for awesome sound staging, speaker enclosure, and as my son says, "it will look sick." In any case, I plan to audition two different set of speakers at these two locations (also stock dash) and settle later.. A little concerned since its an AZ truck and summers are 105 F.

So, equipment list thus far:

-Zapco DC656: 6 channel w/ power full DSP ; DSP has OEM EQ adjustments
-Modified wiring harness to RCA interconnects

OEM HU --> ZapCO + built in DSP --> Speakers

Wiring/Connectors: Mostly KnuKonceptz components

Subwoofer: discuss later
Front Stage: discuss later
Door Speakers: discuss later

MrMarv will build speaker door baffles

Build starts this weekend! Any feedback is welcomed!

 

This is going in a '16?

 

yup!

 

I'm very interested in how this turns out! Are you planning on powering everything with that one Zapco amp? If so, look for speakers with sensitivity in the mid/high 90s.

 

Thats going to sound awesome

 

Nice choice on the amp. Ran a good amount of Zapco in the day, never had a bad set-up. Curious as to what you end up with for your front stage. That mid-base will make or break you with the limited space for a sub. I ended up running in the stock locations and it turned out to be a non-issue. My two cents, spend the extra on the components and you won't be sorry. I am not familiar with the DSP in the Zapco amp, but for mine the processor had to de-tune quite a bit from the stock signal. That is what pushed me to the BitOne. It also took in a digital input from a Pure I20 so I could run FLAC files through the ipod. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Yup, I don't have tremendous power, so sensitivity was one of the criteria.. thx

 

Thanks Gary! I think my processor will be key in setting the stage correctly.. Right now, the OEM sound stage is broken into areas, and very heavy on the left.. I'm jealous with your FLAC files! I don't think I have a way to do it??

Right now, I am dragging files onto my iphone using an awesome program called WALTER. However, it converts to the Apple version. Still pretty acceptable

 

A big Thanks to garyinok! He passed on his drawings from his build which was a tremendous help in getting the project kicked off. If you haven't seen his build check it out on this forum.

I really liked the integration of his box, and it turns out to be perfect in my build. There's two changes from his design. 1) My AMP is 6 inches wider than his, so I couldn't really fit two woofers! 2) My watts is half of his, so I elected to have a single Sundown SD-2 (sealed).

I'm taking a ~3dB hit on a single, but if it performs like all the reviews, I should be happy! Nobody doesn't like this subwoofer!

Also, the small compartment (that Gary has his Bitone) will be my storage area for "excess" wiring.. I have some custom cables coming, but its still hard to get exact lengths, so any excess will be neatly stuffed in there and will make the build very clean.

So here's some pics of today's progress.. Too bad my buddy wasn't available, he has a garage packed with wood working tools.. I was stuck with my floor table saw .. ;-(

Removing plastic.. Amazing how much sound passes through when the seats are down!



What do u know, his measurements are working! ;-)



Rough fitment..



There was one issue I had.. The support board could not be flush against the back wall because of these damn white hooks.. The quick fix was going around them (3 of them)..

 

360 RMS watts going into the SD-2.. My friends tease me that the magnet is bigger than the cone!

 

Looking good! Interested to see how this turns out.

 

Ya, those floor table saws are a bitch.

-3 dB ya say? Just give it a few hundred more watts - it's good for it

Good to see this getting started.

 

Subd.

 

My first faux pas!

When I was cutting the material, I was thinking this stuff doesn't cut like MDF.. because its not!

The box is so small , I'm not going to redo it.. However, I have made MDF top cover that the subwoofer sits in.. Also, thinking of sealing the joints so the PB doesn't swell.



Here's the hardware I'm using to attach the subwoofer to MDF.. Has worked great for me in previous installs..

 

Oh, I like this

http://monstaliner.com/

opinions??

 

Looking good. I like that you were able to keep the car seat brackets. I ended up busting mine out, but I am also a long way past my car seat days. At least I hope I am.

Keep us updated.

 

I started doing some CLD pads on the backwall... CLD -> constraint layer damping material..

CLD has its purpose, but folks really tend to over do it.. I'm an engineer and I actually studied CLD on a project. With an Audio system as small as mine, it only makes sense to apply it at the source of vibration and mostly in the "middle" of panels.. In this case, the back wall and door panels. CLD will be used in the doors to minimize any rattling that can propagate into the dash area..

I also have RAMMAT foam which really kills the rattles.. Great stuff. This build I'm using the self adhesion which is really going to be nice to work with..

 

My boat makes an awesome amp bench!

I wanted to try this new amp before getting too far into the build. Up and running and DSP works great!

 

Check this out! I want to use a 3" wide band in the AC duct .. It would be just a few inches closer than a A pillar install..

I want to try some less expensive drivers like the TB W3-881SJF before spending $$ on top of the line (just want to make sure it works)..

Looking forward to auditioning these drivers... There's two locations that I am considering.. the AC ducts and the stock tweeter location on the dash.

I want to cross the driver as low as possible, so I'm guessing it would be better in the AC duct for more direct staging, versus sound dispersion hitting the windshield..

These won't be crossed high like with a tweeter, I'm thinking a low cross will work better.. ~250- ~500 Hz .. This will help maintain sound stage above the dash.. This may be breaking up the vocals between the midbass and widebands (not good), but everything is a compromise. Especially my marriage. lol

 

Making some nice progress on the box build.. I did a twist, I did not want any vibration going into my amp. Vibration can lead to solder fatigue failure, so I put some isolators.. Should work very well..