OTRATTW Wiring help

Just got my switches, and have a couple questions before I get them all wired in. Below is the switch layout I am working with:



I have #'s 8, 2, and 3 down and know where/how to wire them in.

Question 1:

on #6, where is the best spot to splice into the dash lighting circuit? Also, Do i just need one wire here for power that will also handle dimming via the stock dimmer switch? (switches are below HVAC controls on my IggyCorp panel)

Question 2:

on #7, can i jumper the ground from #8, or will i need to ground this to the dash light circuit to be able to utilize the stock dimmer switch?

Question 3:

I am also wiring in multiple switches, so if my thinking is correct, I can jumper each wire to the corresponding # on the second, third, etc switches? ( Example: Switch 1, #8 jumpered to Switch 2 #8, etc)


If anyone has any additional advice or ideas feel free to throw them in!

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

depends where your switch is going to be, I put mine in the blank next to the fog so I just spliced into the fog switch. May be a different story since your location is different.
Answer number 2, I just jumpered mine and I'm not sure how to answer number 3 haha but if toe theory is correct sign me up! That's an awesome idea!

 

Because I am not replacing a stock switch, nor installing near an active switch, I have to run wires to other sources.

It should work fine, just jumper everything except #2 or #3, as they are specific to the device controlled by the switch

 

Here's what I'm thinking:

#6 and #7 to the HVAC wiring harness, allowing for the lights to be dimmable like how i spliced in my LED 4x4 switch.

I just don't know how comfortable I feel about having all my switch lights running off that HVAC harness

 

Unless I can jumper #7 and #8, and run #6 to the illumination circut, providing power and dimming ability

 

That's exactly what I did, I should have been more specific but I jumpered 7 and 8 than tapped 6 into my fog light harness to illuminate my switch. If that makes sense. But in your case like you said run 6 else where

 

Hmmm so jumper 7 and 8, and tap 6 into my HVAC harness on the same position (+) wire my 4x4 switch is tapped into

Just worried about putting tooany switches on that harness, not sure what it could cause in terms of negative effects

 

Ya I'm not sure about that, I'm surprised more people haven't jumped in to help. Cause I'm not super savvy on electrical stuff, there's some who are. I'll keep bumping this to see if we can get ya some good help

 

Appreciate it!

 

Bump

 

Bump

 

The switches are illuminated by low-power LED's, so you can wire all the #6's together. If you're concerned about power, then use a bigger gauge of wire, like 18 or 16 or even 14 AWG, and you can use an add-a-circuit to tap into the dash circuit in the in-dash fuse box behind the coin tray to the left of the steering wheel.

If you're going to wire each switch to its own relay, you can even wire all the #2's together to either constant 12V or switched 12V (accessory power)

 

If I jumper all the #2's, I would need a larger fuse correct?

I need an alternate fuse panel.... I don't like running multiple wires direct to my battery...

 

You would only need a bigger fuse (and wire) if you were going to power devices directly through the switches (the switch provides power to the device when on). Technically, you would need a relay when the power rating of the device exceeds the rating of the switch. I think the OTRATTW switches are rated up to 20A? Your light bar will exceed that so a relay will be needed.

Relays by themselves don't make something switchable, but they do act like a switch that can be controlled by another switch. It's a device that allows a low-power circuit to be isolated from yet able to control a high-power circuit. The way they're typically wired, the relay allows the device to draw power directly from the battery when your switch sends power to the relay's control circuit. If your switch is powered by 12V constant, your accessory will turn on whether the truck is running or not, and if the switch is powered by 12V switched, it will only turn on if the truck is on.

 

So where should I run power from to the switch so it only comes on when the truck is on?

 

Use an add-a-fuse on one of tthe fuses behind your coin tray that only comes on when the truck is on.

 

I would do something like what's in this thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ap-into-12v-ignition-switched-circuit.317324/

 

Didn't read all of that but, if you don't care if the switches dim or not its much easier. For example I have mine wired where anytime the key is on the bottom lights up, its not to bright at night i don't really see the point in needing it to dim. This also means you can splice all #6s together and also all 7s and 8s.

 

I have all of my OTRATTW switches illumination pos and neg tapped into my AC dimming wires. Your lower light neg 7 needs to be tapped into your acc dimming neg to dim, if I recall. If you jump it off of a regular ground then it will not dim. If you are just triggering relays like mine are then you canc jump all of your 2''s together. The relay uses barely any current to trigger it.

 

So you have the #6 Lower light Pos (+) running to the Pos (+) in your HVAC harness

Do you have both the upper and lower light Neg (-) going to the Neg (-) in the HVAC harness to control dimming of both lights?

OR

Do I just need to run the #7 lower light Neg (-) to the HVAC Neg (-) to be able to dim both upper and lower lights?


I don't need both lights to be dimmable, just curious.
Pretty sure I am going to run #8 to ground somewhere near the panel, and #6 to HVAC harness Neg (-)