How To: Secondary Stand Alone Fuse Block Install

About to install this as I'm paranoid that I'll burn my truck down with too much stuff running off of the battery. For you electrical gurus, I already have some stuff running to the battery with small inline fuses (don't know the amps off the top of my head, but nothing crazy). When connecting them to the fuse block, should I get rid of the inline fuse before connecting it to the block, or should I leave it and connect as usual to the block? If I can/should just leave it, any special considerations when selecting a fuse to use on the block? Thanks in advance.

 

The whole point of the fuse block is that it holds your fuses in one central location instead of using inline ones. You should get rid of the inline fuses are re-wire your accessories to the block and then uses the same size fuses that are already in the inline holders.

 

I have everything needed to install, now I'm trying to figure out the wiring. All of my accessories will be ran via relay and I'm using OTTRAW rocker switches, can I daisy chain power and ground off the switches? Also, is the fog light wire a good source to tap for the dash illumination? can I daisy chain all of my switches to one dash light source?

 

http://www.otrattw.com/J66a.pdf
8, 7, 2, and 6 can all be daisy chained across multiple switches. The input wire that will be different per switch is 3 in the diagram. Hope this helps.

 

This helps a lot. I plan on mocking everything up this evening. For pin 6, i've read a good source is the 4th wire on the back of the stock fog light switch, is there an easier wire to tap? I plan on mounting the switches in front of the center armrest as I understand there is a good ground spot under the center dash that i've read from another thread.

 

If I understand correctly you plan on installing the switches in the center console? I put mine there and tapped into the backlight for the shifter. I used this thread to disassemble the console and access the light:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-automatic-shifter-indicator-lamp.22332/

Dd not attach pin 7 to the chassis ground if you want the dimmer to work on your switch, our trucks control the dimmer by changing the resistance of the ground wire. You need to tap into both the positive and negative wires of your light power source. In my case it was the two green wires off the console light (I can't remember off the top of my head which is positive and which is negative, I used a multi meter to find out) If you jump pin 7 with the chassis ground the switch will always be at full brightness regardless of what your dimmer is set at.

...if I misunderstood and you're putting the switches somewhere else then you can ignore most of my post

 

Here is the switch location I was referring to

 

Stole this picture from another thread. Its a ground source located under the center console. I think some owners use this source for their heated seat install.

 

That will work great for a chassis ground but if you ground pin 7 to it your dimmer won't work (I had mine there initially)

 

For illumination follow this:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/switch-panel-gb.352289/page-34#post-9778747

 

Got it thanks!

 

So I'm prepped some of the wiring but noticed that my switch only has 4 pins in the back. All the wiring diagrams I see show 5? I checked all of the diagrams on ottraw site and don't see the specific diagram I need for the style of switch I received. Pic below.

 

What's your switch designation? It should be on the side. Ex: V1d1-ajxx

 

I can't get the switch out of the switch panel for the life of me....I receipt says i have V1D1GHNB-PZCTJ-1WL

http://www.otrattw.net/CONTURA-V-JE...UPPER-LED-INDEPENDENT-V1D1GHNB-PZCTJ-1WL.html

 

V1D1-GxxB wiring diagram
http://www.otrattw.com/wiring/G66.pdf

 

Dagger how did I miss this...thx now it all makes some kind of sense

 

I like it, subbed for future use.

 

I've been mocking up the mounting plate for my setup and I wondering is body flex much (or any) of a concern at that location? I have a TRD off road so real estate is much tighter around all the fun ABS stuff in there. I just want to be sure to give everything enough space. Judging by the pics you sport and base guys have a lot more room to work with in there.

 

I tested my switch/relay with a 9v battery before throwing it into the truck and on the fuse block, so i am starting to familiarize myself with the install. Question - If the fuse block carries power from the battery, and it is hot all the time, how do i make my accessories so that they are not hot all the time? Is that the job of the relay? Also, I guess for the led on the rocker switch to not be on all the time, it must be tapped into an illumination circuit (fog light harness as mentioned earlier)?

 

You'll need to wire in a relay to have the lights go off with ignition. What you'll want to do is use an "add a fuse" (available at any auto parts store) to tap into an accessory circuit to get your switched power and then wire your switch in line with that (the valet switch in the diagram). This will make it so that the relay always switches off when you turn the truck off.

Basically a relay is a electronically triggered switch that can handle more power. When power is applied to pin 86 it closes and completes the circuit between Pin 30 and 87 turning your light on. When power taken off pin 86 relay opens and lights turn off.



Link to add a fuse:

$8 Nilight GA0007 1 2Pin Way 16AWG Waterproof Wire 1.5mm Series Terminal Connector-5 Pack

http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2

EDIT: Here's a link to the wiring diagram image too. For some reason the embedded image shows up on my phone but not on my computer so I dunno what everyone else is seeing:
http://www.mp3car.com/imagehosting/12527647e9129233622.bmp