Has anyone POWDER COATED a Chrome Rear Bumper??? Outcome?

how much is powder coating? is it hard to find a spot that does it?

 

Try Craigslist.com. I paid $125 to powder coat my rear bumper. You'll save some $ if you drop it off ready to go (i.e. bare metal / no plastics or screws/bolts to remove).

 

If one didn't like the plasti dip, how long would it take to clean it all off? I've been thinking about powder coat too.

 

I just installed my bumper after being powder coated. I removed all of the plastic and support structure then took the chrome skin to a metal stripper to have the chrome blasted off ($35). From there it was able to be powder coated. Cost will vary. If you have trouble finding a place to do it I would ask a local metal stripper or body shop that deals with custom cars as they would know of some shops around.

 

I too would like this done, I'll go the power coated way. Question I have is... How do I remove all of the Plastic and support structures? I've never done this and would like some instructional help.

thanks

 

I dipped my rims as well. I tried dipping my back bumper but it would just flake off after getting hit by small rocks. Im thinking about throwing in the towel an buying a black rear bumper cover

 

I removed the bumper off the truck first. This thread has a good write up with pictures on how to remove it from the truck. Post #39 also has a description of taking apart the bumper.

Once off it was pretty straight forward to remove the bolts holding on the plastic parts. I started with the lower middle plastic piece then removed the large upper piece as it overlaps the end caps. Be careful with the three center screws behind the license plate. They are just fragile plastic screws and removal is easiest if you press from the backside of the bumper on the screw while unscrewing it with a screwdriver. If the bumper is old and the plastic is dried out these will probably break. I'm sure you could replace them with a same size pan head machine screw and a nut.

The end caps are the most tricky as you are unscrewing a nut held on with a thread lock type of material and there is no great way to keep the bolt from spinning if it starts. The bolt head is a flat oval shape that fits into a plastic slot in the cap. The plastic is soft enough that the bolt can eventually spin in place. I ended up using some vise grips to hold on to the very end of the bolt while backing the nut off with an open ended 10mm wrench. It took a little time but is way better than risking spinning the bolt and messing up the ability to reassemble the cap securely. All nuts and bolts were 10 and 12mm.

Hopefully this helps. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures along the way.