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Pelfreybilt Off-Road

Discussion in 'Pelfreybilt Off-Road' started by Socalduckslayer, Apr 16, 2012.

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  1. Aug 16, 2015 at 9:58 AM
    #4161
    Allstar780

    Allstar780 Well-Known Member

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    I took some pics...

    IMG_20150816_101942.jpg

    IMG_20150816_102102.jpg

    In the second pic you can see (kinda) the clearance between the body of the light and the piece beneath the headlight
     
  2. Aug 16, 2015 at 10:16 AM
    #4162
    Denk

    Denk Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I'll mess with it some. See if I can't get some pics as well.
     
  3. Aug 16, 2015 at 11:03 AM
    #4163
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    You are definitely going to rub, brother. Out in the desert having fun, i had my bumper clearanced at about 3/8"-1/2" away from my fiberglass fenders...one trip out to the desert and i wore through the paint down to the fiberglas.

    Funny story, i never actually thought about how much the body flexes on the frame until i got my new truck with the 6 speed...if i rest my hand on the stick while driving and hit bumps and stuff i can feel the stick moving around. So small clearances between body and frame are gonna rub, especially if you off road
     
  4. Aug 16, 2015 at 11:27 AM
    #4164
    Allstar780

    Allstar780 Well-Known Member

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    Hmm... Well if it rubs on the light I'll take the snips to the piece under the headlight... My bumper to body gap is much bigger though
     
  5. Aug 16, 2015 at 11:28 AM
    #4165
    FrustrationFabTaco

    FrustrationFabTaco Well-Known Member

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    You're supposed to cut the piece under the headlight
     
  6. Aug 16, 2015 at 12:05 PM
    #4166
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    I would recommend that immediately. Light is attached to bumper which is attached to frame...headlight piece is attached to body. So that 1/8" is nothing as soon as you start driving and hit a bump in the road or something hehe. Just trying to save you some heart ache when you go check and find notches in your new rigid lights lol i would bend or clip that bracket back at least a good 1/2" away from the lights
     
    Allstar780[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Aug 16, 2015 at 12:39 PM
    #4167
    Hunter.V.White

    Hunter.V.White Well-Known Member

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    I can't wait to get a front bumper for my truck :)
     
  8. Aug 16, 2015 at 1:23 PM
    #4168
    RearViewMirror

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    Thanks

    Yeah I used the factory wiring harness for the D2's. If you cut approx 1/4" off the connector coming off of the D2 it will hook directly into the factory wiring harness. I thought about using rubberized heat shrink but the size difference between the plugs was too great. Ended up wrapping the plugs with electrical tape then ziptied the wires to where they can't be seen.
     
  9. Aug 16, 2015 at 1:27 PM
    #4169
    RearViewMirror

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    Not on a 12+. There is enough clearance for the D2. At least there is with mine. I still have about 1/4 inch between the brace below the headlight and the D2. I left about 1/2" gap between the bumper and body panels for body flex off road.


    IMG_0393_zpssxvtjjmd_d2bebf1ad55bf8c7a54d72ddf4055fbf4ba7e2af.jpg
     
  10. Aug 16, 2015 at 1:41 PM
    #4170
    Sacrifice

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    What did you do with the long thin bracket that runs under the grill/headlights? The one that the under headlight piece is connected to. I see mine still so idk if i just need to move my bumper up more, cause you cant take them out right?
     
  11. Aug 16, 2015 at 1:52 PM
    #4171
    RearViewMirror

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    Left it in place. Just moved the bumper up to where I had about 1/2" clearance between the fender since the body and frame move independently from each other. Bumper sits even with that metal piece your talking about
     
  12. Aug 16, 2015 at 6:31 PM
    #4172
    BabyTaco

    BabyTaco Well-Known Member

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    So, retard moment for me this weekend. I forgot the swingout was locked open and took off down the trail to hear a large bang moments later. I sheared the locking pin off completely. Is this part easily replaced?
     
  13. Aug 16, 2015 at 6:48 PM
    #4173
    Sacrifice

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    maybe i just pay too much attention then cause thats about the same spacing i have. I need to pull it off and paint it all black like you had though.
     
  14. Aug 16, 2015 at 7:56 PM
    #4174
    deadhed61

    deadhed61 :notsure:

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    The locking pin on the spindle?
     
  15. Aug 16, 2015 at 7:57 PM
    #4175
    CanisLupus

    CanisLupus Member since 2011

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    Yeah it's just the screw in pin and handle, PM Tyler or Satin about it.

    Matt
     
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  16. Aug 16, 2015 at 7:58 PM
    #4176
    deadhed61

    deadhed61 :notsure:

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    To get my rigids to have enough clearance with the frame flexing I trimmed the sheet metal as much as possible and then added some rubber trim over it so IF it touches, it doesn't make noise or mess with the lights. So far, so good.
     
  17. Aug 16, 2015 at 8:22 PM
    #4177
    Denk

    Denk Well-Known Member

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    I have a bracket for the clip holding the trim piece below the headlight right in the way. Think I'm gonna cut the bracket in half then jb weld the clip part to the top of the sheet metal. Then I can cut and bend the bottom half for d2 clearance.
     
  18. Aug 16, 2015 at 8:24 PM
    #4178
    deadhed61

    deadhed61 :notsure:

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    I was able to leave the clip in place and just trim the sheet metal up to the base of the clip to provide enough clearance :notsure:
     
  19. Aug 16, 2015 at 8:31 PM
    #4179
    Denk

    Denk Well-Known Member

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    Do you mean trimmed up to where the bolt is? Doing that might give me1/8".
     
  20. Aug 16, 2015 at 8:38 PM
    #4180
    deadhed61

    deadhed61 :notsure:

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    Yeah. It gave me enough clearance. My bumper may be a bit lower :notsure: but with the rubber trim added on, it's been solid. No rubbing or cutting into the light or anything...
     
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