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Locking differentials 2013 Tacoma (Not TRD) suggestions

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by BigHoss89, Sep 8, 2015.

  1. Sep 8, 2015 at 5:43 PM
    #21
    BigHoss89

    BigHoss89 [OP] Member

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    I appreciate the clarification nor am I trying to start a forum argument haha I don't think i will re-gear because i don't plan on getting bigger tires or lift and it does great right now. It's still my daily driver and freeway speed limits where i live are 70-80mph so I'm not looking to struggle on the top end. Lots of knowledge around it seems and I appreciate all the help!!!
     
  2. Sep 9, 2015 at 8:28 AM
    #22
    Jefes Taco

    Jefes Taco Well-Known Member

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    ARBs. Do you really need a front locker? I did Moab in the Spring twice. Once w/o lockers and once w/ a rear ARB. Had minimal issues with no lockers and no issues w/ just a rear locker.

    Other than that I recommend ECGS and a complete 3rd member. Quick and easy install. If you're rehearing then get both the 3rd member and front clamshell from ECGS with the gears you want.

    The compressor install is easy as well and the benefit is onboard air for airing up.
     
  3. Sep 9, 2015 at 2:52 PM
    #23
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    You don't have to regear..... it all depends. If you've got larger tires - say 33" - and you're feeling a lack of power when driving.... Regearing will help get that power back (so to speak, hard to explain).

    If you ever regear....you have to do both front & rear diffs at the same time. You can't regear one....without the other.
    There are many charts & information to let you chose what ratio to go with - if you ever decide.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/gear-ratio-calculator.55364/

    Did you say the truck has 33" tires now? How's the power? Do you feel its lacking?
     
  4. Sep 12, 2015 at 12:48 PM
    #24
    BigHoss89

    BigHoss89 [OP] Member

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    It came with the tires on it and i'm fairly sure they're 33's (285/70R17). The previous owner had also put in a pretty sick cold air intake and exhaust so it feels awesome to me, i never have issues getting up to speed or passing @75+ mph. It seems every time i get to messing with it i discover something else pretty cool already done to it. I'm still trying to figure out what all the intake has with it or does, there seems to be a turbine/turbo looking thing in the top corner connected to it that makes a whizzing noise when I turn the truck off.....? need to ask my mechanic step-dad what he thinks it is....

    I'm thinking i'll only do rear lockers for now, I consider myself to be fairly mechanically inclined. Is this something I could most likely study up and install myself?
     
  5. Sep 12, 2015 at 3:10 PM
    #25
    gottaToy

    gottaToy Well-Known Member

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    movin' on up to the east side
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    Rancho RS66903R7 @2.5", 2x4 block in rear. strait pipe, 37" super swampers
    It requires drilling through the bearing caps and rear housing, along with preloading bearings
     
  6. Sep 13, 2015 at 8:03 AM
    #26
    Jefes Taco

    Jefes Taco Well-Known Member

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    It's VERY easy and there's a writeup stickied in the 2nd Gen forum. The "trick" is to not remove the rear axle shafts and brakes completely and you won't need to bleed the rear brakes. I needed two helpers to pull the shafts apart while I inserted the 3rd member. You could easily use some lumber or something to hold the axles shafts out. The only hard part is the sheer weight of the 3rd members. Not a big deal removing the OEM but getting the ECGS one in was 'fun'. I just laid it on my chest and bench pressed it into place. It's about 70 lbs.

    EDIT: Here's the sticky.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-installation-of-e-locker-3rd-member.193828/
     
    BigHoss89[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  7. Sep 13, 2015 at 12:37 PM
    #27
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    Access cab with child seat in the back, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite air bags with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to under bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, BAMF Tcase skid, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Backcountry MT 3 load E tires on stock steel rims, Toyo M55 tires (same size) on another set of stock steelies, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 24F battery under the hood, Northstar 27F in the cab, Redarc 25 amp DC to DC charger, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, OME rear shocks, OME 90021 front shocks with 885 coils, SPC LR UCAs, Up2NoGood 2wd low range mod, 4 Wheel Campers Grandby slide in camper, 4xinnovations high clearance rear bumper, Uniclutch 800 lb/ft clutch
    I'm going through a similar dilemma. I'm on 33s (might go 35 eventually). Here are my thoughts:

    If regearing, you have to do front and rear simultaneously. My truck pushes 33s pretty well, but definitely lacks some power, especially in reverse (manual trans V6). I am going to regear for sure, just not sure if I want 4.10 or 4.56. I'm leaning toward 4.10 to keep my MPGs under control with 33s, but If I go 35 I'll be in about the same power range as I am now - I think I can live with that. 4.56 will be great off road and will be fine for daily driving, but I do road trips several times a year where I drive 75 - 80 mph for hours at a time. That would mean high rpms and low mpgs, and hot gear oil.

    If you do one at a time, don't regear. If you find you need more torque, get a Taco Box from Marlin (modding required, to truck and drive shafts). I'm leaning toward 4.10 and then the crawl box in a couple years.

    Hope that helps a little.
     
    BigHoss89[OP] likes this.
  8. Sep 18, 2015 at 6:57 AM
    #28
    BigHoss89

    BigHoss89 [OP] Member

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    What ratio is the stock gearing at?
     
  9. Sep 18, 2015 at 7:41 AM
    #29
    gottaToy

    gottaToy Well-Known Member

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    movin' on up to the east side
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    probably 3:73, but when you order the lockers, they should take down your VIN and check what the truck has
     
  10. Sep 18, 2015 at 4:27 PM
    #30
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    2012 AC Manual 4.0 4x4 Base Model
    Access cab with child seat in the back, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite air bags with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to under bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, BAMF Tcase skid, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Backcountry MT 3 load E tires on stock steel rims, Toyo M55 tires (same size) on another set of stock steelies, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 24F battery under the hood, Northstar 27F in the cab, Redarc 25 amp DC to DC charger, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, OME rear shocks, OME 90021 front shocks with 885 coils, SPC LR UCAs, Up2NoGood 2wd low range mod, 4 Wheel Campers Grandby slide in camper, 4xinnovations high clearance rear bumper, Uniclutch 800 lb/ft clutch
    All V6s have 3.73. 4 bangers are 4.10
     
    BigHoss89[OP] likes this.

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