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step by step removal and installation of e-locker 3rd member

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas' started by MonkeyProof, Dec 19, 2011.

  1. Dec 19, 2011 at 8:22 PM
    #1
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    Since I needed to remove my 3rd member again to replace another broken set of ring and pinion gears. I decided to make a little set by step write up of how to remove and re-install a e-locker 3rd member.

    The overall process and method to remove/install a e-locker 3rd member is fairly easy. I feel just about anyone with the proper and the right tools can do so with out using too many curse words or having any busted knuckles lol.

    [​IMG]


    In order to get started, you should have the following tools and supplies to make your life easy:


    drain pan or bucket
    brake clean/parts cleaner spray can
    shop towels
    ultra grey rtv silicone gasket maker
    3 quarts oil- Lucas 85w140 Dyno oil is what EastCoastGearSupply recommends
    zipties
    paint marker
    small pocket screw driver
    regular size screwdriver
    12mm wrench
    14mm wrench x2
    12mm socket
    14mm socket
    24mm socket
    ratchet driver
    lug-nut tool
    2 jack stands
    hydraulic floor jack
    choke block

    First thing that should be done is to place a wheel choke in front of one of the tires to help secure your taco when it gets jacked up. Now, place a hydraulic jack under the rear differentail and jack that sucker up so you can place your jack stands in place along the frame rail. Don't forget to remove the rear wheels as well. Do the obvious thing and make sure you are working on a nice level flat surface so nobody get hurts.

    Don't be like this guy:
    [​IMG]


    The proper way: :p
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Once everything is up in the air and sitting on jack stands the next step will be to drain the gear oil from the differential. This stuff is stinky. Some of the special additives used in gear oil is Sulphur-Phosphorous and that is what causes the smell.

    Using a 24mm socket, remove both the fill plug and drain plug:
    [​IMG]

    In the Toyota Factory Service Manual it states to remove the brake lines at the drum brakes. I skip that step and i have created my own shortcut that saves precious time. This shortcut keeps the brake lines intact and you won't have to bleed the brakes as a final step when re-installing the 3rd member.

    What I do is I remove the brake line hangers along the axle housing. This allows me to pull out the axles far enough in order to remove the 3rd member.

    Using a 12mm socket or wrench remove these brake line hanger bolts:
    [​IMG]

    Remove the e-brake hanger from both sides:
    [​IMG]

    It's now time to remove the ABS sensors. You should be careful when removing the sensors. You must use a small flat tip screwdriver, there is a little tiny clip inside that you must press down in order to pull each sensor. Using a pocket screwdriver makes your life so much easier when doing this.

    Using a pocket screwdriver to press down on the clip, you have to press down on the clip and pull at the same time:
    [​IMG]

    Now it's time to remove the drive shaft from the 3rd member. You will need (2) 14mm wrenches and a paint marker or something similar for marking. Sometimes when connecting the drive shaft back and in the wrong place can lead to drive line vibrations. That's why it's always a good idea to mark exactly where it was connected to the flange.

    Mark a spot on the drive shaft and pinion flange like so using a paint marker:
    [​IMG]

    Using (2) 14mm wrenches remove the 4 bolts that secures the drive shaft to the pinion flange:
    [​IMG]

    I like to ziptie the drive shaft around the muffler hanger to keep the drive shaft out of the way:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Dec 19, 2011 at 8:22 PM
    #2
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    The next step is to remove the e-locker motor assembly .

    Using a 12mm socket or wrench, remove the nuts securing the cover:
    [​IMG]

    Once you have that little cover off it's time to remove two electrical connectors from the e-locker motor.

    Remove the two electrical connectors by squeezing the tabs while pulling out at the same time:
    [​IMG]

    Remove the two remaining nuts to the e-locker motor and pull the assembly out:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]This next step is vital. It is key to removing the 3rd member form the housing. If you forget to do this step there won't be enough room to pull out the 3rd member and it will stay stuck

    Using a flat tip screwdriver, move the e-locker engagement fork towards the center of the 3rd member:
    [​IMG]




    [​IMG] Side Note: If you are ever on the trail and your e-locker is not engaging for whatever reason but you really need it to. You can remove the e-locker motor assembly by following the above steps. And you can engage it or even disengage it by hand. it's a quick trail fix that i have done myself.
     
  3. Dec 19, 2011 at 8:23 PM
    #3
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    Time to get ready to remove the 3rd member from the housing.

    Using a 12mm socket, remove the nuts and washers that secures the 3rd member to the housing:
    [​IMG]

    Once you have all of the nuts and washers removed from the studs, it's time to get ready and separate the axles from the housing. You will need a 14mm wrench for this step. Be carefull when pulling out the axles so you don't tear or mare the axle seals.

    Using a 14mm wrench, remove the 4 nuts on each side of the axle:
    [​IMG]

    Once you have the nuts removed, pull out the axles away from the housing. You need to pull the axles out a good 3-4 inches away from the housing. You will have to use some force while doing this. You will also notice that the brake lines are pulling out some but that's ok. everything will go back together as normal. i promise lol.

    Pull the axles away from the housing at least 3-4 inches and place something as a spacer to keep the axles away from the housing. I use large deep 1/2" sockets as my spacers:
    [​IMG]

    Once you have the axles separated from the housing you can now remove the 3rd member form the housing. It's heavy so you will need both hands to do so. It takes a little wiggling to get that sucker out. If you have the axles out far enough the 3rd should eventually wiggle out. Be careful not to drop the 3rd. member on yourself, that sucker weighs around 62lbs.

    Wiggle the 3rd. member while pulling away from the axle housing:
    [​IMG]

    You are done if you have successfully pulled out the 3rd member. :D


    [​IMG] Side Note: In the case of waiting for parts or even a new 3rd for any amount of time, go ahead and slide the axles back into place. This will help in keeping the wieght of the axle and drum brakes off of the axle seal so they won't be damaged.



    Once you have the 3rd out go ahead and inspect the splines on the inner axle shafts just to make sure they are not twisted.



    [​IMG]
     
  4. Dec 19, 2011 at 8:23 PM
    #4
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    instructions for re-installing the 3rd member coming soon
     
  5. Dec 19, 2011 at 8:23 PM
    #5
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    Here's a picture of the gears that I broke last Saturday coming back from the TW 626/909 meet at the Hat. It broke while I was accelerating from a just turned green light. Soon as I got on the gas I heard the infamous PING and I knew right away what it was. This is now my 4th ring and pinion gear set that has broken.

    This set is my original 3rd member with the OEM 3.73 gears

    [​IMG]


    This 3rd member broke in July while I was backing out of my driveway. On this gear set the pinion gear broke, the ring gears looks prestine.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Dec 19, 2011 at 8:25 PM
    #6
    jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

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    Still haven't managed to figure out why marking the shaft is necessary...

    Good writeup. This info needs to be out there...one of the most common failures if these trucks are used as trucks.
     
  7. Dec 19, 2011 at 8:30 PM
    #7
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    meh..i hit post reply by accident instead of reviwe reply...im not done with my write up yet.

    but to answer your question about marking the drive shaft..

     
  8. Dec 19, 2011 at 8:43 PM
    #8
    jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

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    The driveshaft is already phased correctly from factory and the stock flanges only allow it to be bolted on in the correct orientation (not that it matters too much - the output shaft of the tranny, pinion of the rear diff, and DS are all rotary items; so long as they're phased correctly, you can bolt it on at any point in the rotation you want). You cannot change the driveshaft phasing without disassembling the center slip joint.

    If you have a custom shaft with a slip joint at one or other end, same idea applies...have to disengage the splines of the slip joint to rotate one u-joint without the other and change the phasing.

    In other words: Don't disassemble your driveshaft and there's no need to mark it for removal/re-assembly.

    Edit: Not that it's going to hurt anything. I'm just clarifying because this often gets done on the trail and people may not have a marking method handy. Settle some minds maybe.
     
  9. Dec 19, 2011 at 9:04 PM
    #9
    maxamillion2345

    maxamillion2345 Go home if you don't like guns liquor and whores.

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    Good work. Much more clear here than mine. ;)
     
  10. Dec 20, 2011 at 8:04 AM
    #10
    HBMurphy

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    Very nice!
     
  11. Dec 20, 2011 at 8:19 AM
    #11
    silver taco

    silver taco Well-Known Member

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    Did you get a new set of gears yet?
     
  12. Dec 20, 2011 at 8:40 AM
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    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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  13. Dec 20, 2011 at 8:48 AM
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    blitz

    blitz Well-Known Member

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    great write up
     
  14. Dec 20, 2011 at 8:52 AM
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    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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  15. Dec 20, 2011 at 12:38 PM
    #15
    Manwithoutaplan

    Manwithoutaplan the full Monty

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    nice write up. so on the axle where the drum and the axle connect is that like a spacer to make the axle longer???
     
  16. Dec 20, 2011 at 2:57 PM
    #16
    HBMurphy

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    No that is a spacer to house the abs sensor - on in the case of ATRAC vehicles the ATRAC/ABS sensor! :) lol
     
  17. Dec 20, 2011 at 2:58 PM
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    HBMurphy

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    Tom - love the MonkeyProof and the MoneyProof logos!!! lol lol
     
  18. Dec 20, 2011 at 3:05 PM
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    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    thanks Paul..took forever to add my mark to each photo, I don't know how Marlon does it lol.
     
  19. Dec 20, 2011 at 3:06 PM
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    maxamillion2345

    maxamillion2345 Go home if you don't like guns liquor and whores.

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  20. Dec 20, 2011 at 3:08 PM
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    Manwithoutaplan

    Manwithoutaplan the full Monty

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    how long did this take to get everything apart??
     
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