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Ujoint replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Pacgas, Dec 11, 2015.

  1. Dec 12, 2015 at 2:06 PM
    #21
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    The outside clip style DC joints are not listed (correctly) by any parts house or Spicer, Neapco or Precision for that matter. The Rockford #2540 is the only known source and they don't even list it in the catalog. You have to ask them for it. It measures 3.18" lock and 1.065" cap dia. Folks have half assed the joint you mentioned by grinding down the caps but the smaller diameter cap still gives a less than perfect fit.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2015
  2. Dec 12, 2015 at 6:08 PM
    #22
    Pacgas

    Pacgas [OP] Member

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    No, it is completely stock!
     
  3. Dec 12, 2015 at 6:13 PM
    #23
    Pacgas

    Pacgas [OP] Member

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    I measure in millimeters, unfortunately I have always worked with metrics.
    Can you explain the term "OAL"?

    I went to Napa today. No luck! They were showing me the exact same joints as Preillys did. In fact their catalogs did not list any part numbers for the double cardan joints. Where do you get your info? Let me know.
     
  4. Dec 12, 2015 at 6:22 PM
    #24
    Pacgas

    Pacgas [OP] Member

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    Are you saying I should ask Napa for that "Rockford 2540"? They did not seem very knowledgeable with regards to my ujoint problem. They kept saying I should send my driveshaft to a driveline specialist. I have been a foreign car tech for far too long to send my work to another tech (ego problem?) maybe, not sure but I know I can replace the cardan joints as I have done that in the past.
     
  5. Dec 12, 2015 at 6:24 PM
    #25
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    OAL - over all length

    I was a counterman for NAPA for 7 years or so. I still have access to their cataloging system. So the info I gave is probably what those guys told you in person.
     
  6. Dec 12, 2015 at 6:26 PM
    #26
    cosmicfires

    cosmicfires Well-Known Member

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    I have always gotten good parts from NAPA, not always from other stores. I don't know much about Oreilly's but they replaced Shucks, I would never buy anything from them (Shucks), their stuff was all crap, possibly why they are gone.

    Oreilly's has nice looking tools so their parts might be good. I haven't needed any parts I could get there.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2015
  7. Dec 12, 2015 at 6:29 PM
    #27
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    Also, everyone has access to their books at www.napaecatalog.com. I'm going to take your dimensions and see if I can get some better numbers.
     
  8. Dec 12, 2015 at 6:40 PM
    #28
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    hmmm a federal mogul/precision u-join number 369 has a cap diameter of 1.063 and an overall length of 3.22. do you think .04" longer would be too long to fit in there?
     
  9. Dec 13, 2015 at 2:04 PM
    #29
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Yes, that's essentially what I said in the post you quoted. Without grinding down the caps you can't get the clips in. Not to be a smart ass but as far as the smaller diameter, ask your boss about classes of "interference fits" and the relevance of .002" to a hole diameter of around an inch.

    I have talked several folks thru a DC joint job one of which had the external clip style that I was not aware of at the time. He bought 2 of the Fed/Precision joints and ended up returning them and "discovering" the Rockford #2540 thru direct conversation with Rockford. The way I took it, the joint was manufactured by Rockford specifically for the later Tacoma application and labeled something to the effect of "Toyota Koyo Replacement". They were well aware and somewhat proud of the fact that there was nothing else on the market.

    As a side note, just taking a look at the current Rockford catalog I see they are now listing the "center ball kits" formally obtainable only from Neapco.
     
  10. Dec 13, 2015 at 2:22 PM
    #30
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
    Vehicle:
    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    No, unless something has changed you must order from Rockford or maybe one of their distributors/dealers.
    I would really not bother with the DC at all "just because your doing the other joints" as long as it is not binding and smooth. With proper and regular lube these things can outlast the truck.

    I hear ya on subbing out work. For your joints at the shaft ends, sometimes parts houses (and the customer) get mixed up with Tacomas. Applications for 2wd, 2wd Prerunner and 4wd frequently get confused with out proper diligence. These joints should not be hard to find at all.
     
  11. Dec 13, 2015 at 3:30 PM
    #31
    Pacgas

    Pacgas [OP] Member

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    can anyone possibly send me the measurements in Millimeters.
    i have not removed any joints yet as I am concerned. Once I get the measurements in millimeters i can mike mine and compare.
    went back to the only place open today (sun. Oreillys) and checked on numbers for a 4 wd instead of my two wheel drive just in case. the same numbers came up for both 2 and 4wd shafts. also checked with the Napa catalog as suggested and it also came up with the same numbers whether 2 or 4 wd.
    I may be wasting a lot of good peoples times and energy, and I apologize. I wish i could send a picture of one of the joints showing the difference between ones i have purchased and ones in use.
    As I said i have not yet measured so the only physical diff I see is that i do NOT have a rubber seal on the inside of each cap, NONE,
    so that eliminates the chance that the seals may have worn off. if you look at my caps (installed), thru the yoke inside to the center section, there is only metal protruding from the yoke caps to the center of the yoke.
    Also, and this seems important, all my joints have zero fittings, NOT outside the caps, NOT in-between the caps, but rather on top of the center section of the joints, and they are angled at a 90 degrees so that greasing them is possible.
     
  12. Dec 13, 2015 at 5:51 PM
    #32
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    I can't believe finding the end joints is causing such a problem.

    Right off hand this is all I got.
    The joints for the ends of the shaft should should be the #'s Mr visage mentioned in post #19. That's the size from the factory of my 99 4wd excab. That would be a cap dia of 29.03mm and a length of 52.07mm.

    Below is an OEM factory joint we are talking about, no rubber shroud, the seal is inside the cap. Aftermarket joints may use a different looking seal so that is not really important for "fit" in itself. Also aftermarket joints may have the grease fittings in the cap typical with Spicer or between the shafts (not desirable).

    Toyota part #0437160070
    UJT2_zps108f2060_84742b1f016a515456e14c43256cacb300db3c13.jpg
    UJT1_zpsa9ed4e29_f83adaad2cf3f65b9ec4c65b541814ab41c04376.jpg
     
  13. Dec 13, 2015 at 10:08 PM
    #33
    Pacgas

    Pacgas [OP] Member

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    appreciate the picture. That is what I have in my driveshaft, and that is what i was looking for at Napa and Oreillys but unable to find. you have greatly clarified the situation regarding the internal seals on the caps and the differences between the seals I was shown by the parts houses. I will go ahead and use new joints for the shaft ends that have the grease fittings in the end caps!

    what about the joints for the dual cardan? can you give me any idea as to what part numbers you suggest and who sells them?
    and what/where the grease fittings should be on them?

    Btw, the picture of the original shaft end joint you have shown, sells for $76.00 each at our local dealer(carson city nv)!
     
  14. Dec 14, 2015 at 12:54 PM
    #34
    Digiratus

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    Mr Dirty Pool has educated us before about the double cardan joint. You might find this link helpful:

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/double-cardan-joint.273119/
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2015
  15. Dec 14, 2015 at 2:03 PM
    #35
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    For your 03 "outside clip" DC joints, review posts 12, 21, 29 and 30.;) Grease fittings will be same as your OEM.
    Contact info here http://rockforddriveline.com/ nice folks.
     
  16. Dec 15, 2015 at 9:46 PM
    #36
    Pacgas

    Pacgas [OP] Member

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    I cannot thank you guys enough!
    you all have contributed greatly with very valuable info.
    i can now go ahead and rebuild this 03 pre-runner shaft with the knowledge you have all given me. I am very confident that I will use the correct parts and methods with which to do a great repair.
    thank you all,
    will post again once job is completed!
     
    Digiratus likes this.
  17. Dec 21, 2015 at 7:06 PM
    #37
    Pacgas

    Pacgas [OP] Member

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    well, it has been way too crazy here with the snowstorms one after another and family coming to visit. i have NOT had a chance to do anything except replace the rear joint. that was a bitch as my hydraulic press did not work (froze the internal seal sitting outside).
    i managed with a vise and a BFH and some sockets.
    i have purchased the only center support bearing available around here. it does not have a seal on either side of the bearing. the original unit does have seals on both sides of the bearing. I took it back today to show them. I was given another box but it too had the lack of seals. parts guys said it should not be a problem as the bearing is a sealed unit (so was the original, yet it also had two seals in it). after further searching for a unit to match mine seal for seal, they came upon one that I could special order and have by Jan 1, 2016?????? I want to give this toyota back to my daughter ASAP. This is taking way too long and tying up space.
    Now, do I install the ctr. bearing without the seals or do i need to wait another two weeks for the matching ctr bearing?
    Sorry to keep harping on this subject but am still at a loss, need advice!
    By the way, I decided against doing the Cardan joints and the front joint as I do not want to go through any more frustrations. all the other joints are very smooth moving anyways.
     
  18. Dec 22, 2015 at 7:07 AM
    #38
    keakar

    keakar Well-Known Member

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    yep, if they are ok its best not to mess with them. leaving them alone they could easily last the life of the truck without any issue

    as to the center support bearing question im not sure I understand what seals you are talking about but if it is the carrier bearing you are speaking of then I would just use the one that the have for it. different manufacturers often use different looking stuff or slightly different designs
     
  19. Dec 22, 2015 at 7:44 AM
    #39
    Pacgas

    Pacgas [OP] Member

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    I cannot send a picture as I do not know how to post it. But, a center support bearing on Amazon Dorman#934-401 has a great picture of the unit with external seals on both sides of the actual metal bearing that sits on the driveshaft.
    I found a good picture of the unit i purchased on (autopartswarehouse.com) part #Timken TMHB26 Manufacturers #HB26.
    you can see the difference between the Dorman unit that has external seals on each side of the actual ball bearing and the timken that does NOT have the same. I am being assured by the local parts people that I can install the unit (without dual external seals), as the actual ball bearings are a sealed unit. I realize that is true but then I question why does one item have seals and the other not(both are sealed bearings).
    I hope i have explained this clearly?
    does anyone have info regarding the differences on the above center support bearings?
     
  20. Dec 22, 2015 at 8:42 AM
    #40
    keakar

    keakar Well-Known Member

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    ok, yep, that is the "carrier bearing" as its most commonly refered to

    the bearings are sealed bearings so what you are seeing on the outside is just dust seals to keep stuff out so I would not be too overly concerned if it doesn't look exactly like the original but if it has only one dust cover, be sure you install it in the correct orientation

    lets face it, most road mist, dirt, and debris, is coming from one direction anyway so the back side dust seal isn't doing much

    that said it would be nice to get one with dust seals on both sides

    also FYI, to post pictures, you find any picture you want on internet, right click it, select "copy" then come here and right click on post and click "paste" to post a picture

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2015

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