32" LED Light Bar Mounts - Stealth and Flush for 3rd Gens

What are those two back plastic boxes in the pictures

 

Those are the air dams that sit on each side of the grill area. You will have to trim them in order for the LED and mounts to fit in there. It is done very easily and the way it is trimmed, none of the mounting points are removed, just the flap that hangs down into the lower grill that just got filled with the LED.

 

This might be tough as I'm going to the dealer on Monday morning to sign all the paper work and hopefully pick up my truck...!!

 

How do i send you a PM..??

 

Click on my name and select "start conversation."

 

Anybody know of anyone whos installed a 50in curved light bar on the upper windshield of there 2016 tacoma?? I'm curious if anyone has done it yet. I'm waiting for my bar and brackets to ship.

 

FOR SALE THREAD!!!!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/32-led-light-bar-mounts-stealth-and-flush-styles.412396/

 

If the air damn (which is already removed from the OR) is just taken off the truck, would that eliminate any need to file or trim anything? I ask, as mine is a leased vehicle and most of my mods thus far, can just be removed and then reinstalled onto my next Tacoma.

 

The air dam is the only thing that needs modding. So yes, you can just put them on the shelf if you want. Or see how much a new one costs... maybe $40 from the dealer down the road...

 

I'll let Chris post the full update and details but as expected the testing for the Flush mount brackets went great this week. Install was easy and I love how beefy his brackets are. I also purchased the Cali-Raised single row LED through Chris as well. I'm super impressed with the quality and brightness of the LED and the included harness works really well and saves a ton of time. Here's a quick teaser pic of the single row LED flush mounted with his brackets:

 

Also, I thought I'd do a quick write up on wiring up the LED to a factory style switch. To start, I bought this Mictuning switch from Amazon that fits the factory blank on the left side of the wheel. I also bought a really nice little relay holder directly from Cali-Raised here that holds up to 3 relays and bolts on the inner fender into factory threads not being using next to the battery. The Cali-Raised LED comes with a nice wiring harness, relay & fuse so other than some misc type wiring connectors you shouldn't need anything else.

Step 1: Mount your relay in the desired location next to the battery. This will help determine how much you can cut off some of the other cables as they are plenty long. There are lots of ways to do this but as I mentioned above I used a relay bracket to make it bolt on easy and provide for expansion in the future:




Step 2: Route the thick red/black power wire for the LED along the fender and down to the LED. There are lots of places to zip tie to and you should be able to route it nice and clean. Cut to length. I cut off the spade terminals that come on the harness as I don't see the need to unhook the LED in the future and it's just one more connection that can fail. This is nice, thick 14 AWG wire so you'll need the BLUE connectors. I like the weather tight version as they include built in shrink tubing and prevent bad connections down the road:



Step 3: Cut off the switch from that came with the Cali Raised harness. I cut off the white connector and all as you won't need it and it makes it easier to fish the wire through the firewall:



Step 4: Fish the wires (white, blue, black) that will go to the switch through the firewall. I chose to go right next hood latch cable and was able to push right through the rubber grommet in the firewall using a hanger. Then I taped the wire to the hanger and pulled from inside the cab:




Step 5: Remove the lower dash panel from below the steering wheel. This seems much harder to do than it actually is. Just bite the bullet and pull it down, it makes life WAY easier on the next couple of steps and if you don't you will risk scratching the dash or breaking tabs trying to access the switch. To do this, remove the sill plate by the door (it just pulls straight up on tabs), next remove the kick panel (1 thumb screw and 2 tabs - pull towards the center console). This will expose a bolt behind the top of the kick panel that needs to be undone. Then undo the other 2 bolts that are visible. Next, just simply start pulling down on the dash panel, it's held in by 11 clips, they won't break and come out easy. *Note the knee airbag will stay in place so no need to mess with it:



Step 6: Wire up the new switch. This is also easier than it seems. The Mictuning switch comes with a wire harness with 4 wires. 3 of the wires go to the white, blue, black that you fished through the firewall and 1 wire will splice into the Cargo Lamp switch on the dash. Here's how you should wire it:

GREEN = WHITE
RED 1 = BLUE
BLACK = BLACK
RED 2 = GREEN WIRE ON CARGO LAMP SWITCH





Step 7: Plug in the switches and put the dash back together. Should look like this:



Step 8: Finish wiring the relay by hooking up the short RED wire with the in-line fuse to the battery and the short BLACK wire with the ring to the grounding strap:


YOUR DONE!!! The switch has 2 bulbs inside. 1 will illuminate when your parking/dash lights come on. The other will illuminate when the Switch/LED is in use:

 

Great tutorial, Kevin. I have a similar setup coming from Chris and this will be very helpful!

 

Fantastic tutorial. Great photos too. Thanks. I'll be installing mine when it comes in. What grill are you running?

 

Thanks! Rad Industries grille: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/grill-and-skid-plate-feeler-thread.403955/

 

Ok here is the long overdue Flush pictures and info. Two of these have been mounted now and they are awesome! I am taking pre-orders on these until the 5th of Feb and have 9 remaining at the pre-order pricing.

I tested with two different LEDs. The top one is a Baja Designs 30" Stealth and the bottom one is the Cali Raised Single Row Spot. Both are great LEDs. It is hard to see from the pictures but you will have to cut out the slats in the grill and when I did the Baja Designs one, I had to make the opening a little bit wider. I did learn that this plastic cuts very easy with a sharp knife. I used my Kershaw pocket knife and it made very nice straight and clean cuts. This install is straight forward and the hardest part is putting the bolts in the LED, it takes a little patients as it is a tight fit. But if I can get my hands in there, I know it will be something any of you guys can do! Enjoy the pictures and please let me know if you have any questions!!!

 

Do you still have any available for the preorder?

 

Sorry all pre-orders are sold. I will begin taking orders again next week once I get all my parts welded up and at the powder coater.

 

Hey Chris. Do you have an expected ship day for the stealth brackets?

 

Estimated ship date is 12 Feb 2016. However, there is a chance one of my laser cut packages will arrive today! If I am that lucky, then I will weld up everything tonight so I can get them to the powder coater tomorrow. Should allow me to get things out a few days sooner.

 

Very exciting!! Once this project if complete, I can begin my skid plate adventure. Been talking about this with all the guys I work with also, may have some more orders for you down the line I hope. I love to inspire lol.