Towing upgrade

More like 5-10 hp. And I have a 2.7 so every bit counts.

The conversion would gain you more hp, more mpg, and your truck wouldnt sound like an airplane taking off at times. It's a good conversion.

 

Just 1 person who loves it. Plenty of threads if you don't believe it.

 

like the 3.4 does any better lol

 

I mean they do 1 thing well and that's giving rides to owners of other manufacturers

 

In a magento, yes. Alternator, no. A magneto has a permanent magnetic field, if it's turning it's producing. An alt uses electromagnetic fields. If it's turning, nothing is happening unless the field is energized. The greater the energy to the field, the greater the output of the alt. High output alts, most are just over or re-winds that increase the field at lower speeds. The greater the field at the the lower speed gives you an increased output without having to turn the alternator faster.

As a sideline the electrical potential of the alternator is limited by it's speed. The same alt turning faster (to a limit) has the *ability* to produce more output, even though it may not produce much at all at top speed because of the lack of need. But that alt at a slow speed with a high deficit may not be able to produce the required amount to recoup it.

The output of a modern alt is controlled by the amount of deficit it sees, by increasing or decreasing the field. If you draw 1amp, your 100amp alt isn't going to slam 100a into the battery. It's going to have a minor field, and produce minor amperage. And the stronger the magnetic field, the harder it is to turn.

A magneto though, the magnetic field is constant. With every turn it will produce the same output, turn it faster it produces more, turn it slower it produces less. It's suitable in some applications, not in all. You'll find them in lawn mowers and other pull start engines that are only firing the spark plug. And when I flew, Cessna's But they had at least 2 as a redundancy system. As long as 1 worked, you stayed in the air!

Copy/paste.

Alternator Output Control

A voltage regulator controls alternator output by changing the amount of current flow through the rotor windings. Any change in rotor winding current changes the strength of the magnetic field acting on the stator windings. In this way, the voltage regulator can maintain a preset charging voltage. The three basic types of voltage regulators are as follows: Contact point voltage regulator, mounted away from the alternator in the engine compartment Electronic voltage regulator, mounted away from the alternator in the engine compartment Electronic voltage regulator, mounted on the back or inside the alternator The contact point voltage regulator uses a coil, set of points, and resistors that limits system voltage. The electronic or solid-state regulators have replaced this older type. For operation, refer to the "Regulation of Generator Output" section of this chapter.

The electronic voltage regulators use an electronic circuit to control rotor field strength and alternator output. It is a sealed unit and is not repairable. The electronic circuit must be sealed to prevent damage from moisture, excessive heat, and vibration. A rubberlike gel surrounds the circuit for protection. An integral voltage regulator is mounted inside or on the rear of the alternator. This is the most common type used on modern vehicles. It is small, efficient, dependable, and composed of integrated circuits. An electronic voltage regulator performs the same operation as a contact point regulator, except that it uses transistors, diodes, resistors, and capacitors to regulate voltage in the system.

To increase alternator output, the electronic voltage regulator allows more current into the rotor windings, thereby strengthen the magnetic field around the rotor. More current is then induced into the stator windings and out of the alternator. To reduce alternator output, the electronic regulator increases the resistance between the battery and the rotor windings. The magnetic field decreases and less current is induced into the stator windings. Alternator speed and load determines whether the regulator increases or decreases charging output. If the load is high or rotor speed is low (engine at idle), the regulator senses a drop in system voltage. The regulator then increases the rotors magnetic field current until a preset output voltage is obtained. If the load drops or rotor speed increases, the opposite

 

I have to agree, they were designed more for comfort, handling, and good daily driving attributes more than they were for hauling loads and towing trailers.

 

BOOM! I stand corrected, and rightfully so. Thank you so much for setting me straight. I absolutely appreciate the info man! I really read for a while trying to be sure I was correct, you sounded pretty intelligent in your reply, so I really dug for a bit. Lol, I missed that part completely.

I have learned something today, and that is an early tick on my todo list!

Although, I do find it interesting that you introduce current, to create an electromagnet, to create more current. It seems like a something from nothing. (An add water, and you get more water type thing.) But you don't really because you are adding power to the formula via the engine. It makes sense, but man what an interesting doodad these alternators are.

 

I've never had any problems with the "piss poor" brakes I wouldn't mind doing the Tundra upgrade but spending another ~$400 isn't worth while with just lift/tires.

not trying to poke the bear but the "butt dyno" is faulty at times, any real world dyno results? (sorry if it was posted somewhere else, it's 2am and I'm going to bed)

 

well the OP said he wanted to improved "towing" and I was addressing his question. i would agree with you, if that question were not asked, but towing involves stopping the truck with more involved then just bigger tires/lift, you have to stop all that weight behind the truck pushing it forward when you want to stop. the tundra brake mod isn't for lift/tires, although it can be, but its mainly for someone who wants to be towing things.

 

there are also plenty of people who tow that do not do the TBU and brake fine. I also tow a trailer with my bike (~1200 lbs) and don't have issues (I should have put that in above).

also the OP never states what he wants to tow or how often, only that "towing capabilities" were on his list. Even with the TBU you won't stop quickly, give yourself a little extra room and read the towing bible. If you tow constantly it will be worth it since you will eat up fewer brake pads over the long run.