Install Subs/Amp to OEM Entune Headunit - 2016

I couldnt find it anywhere on here but I know someone has taken out the stock entune headunit and hooked up amp and subs. I am looking for a tutorial on this and what would be needed if anything to hook up my amp to the stock headunit. Thanks.

 

Just had a chit chat with Crutchfield about this. You'll need an Amp that takes "Line input" as an input since the stock units don't have RCA outputs to feed the signal to the amp.

Options all depend on your budget - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...16NL1UMY4M5A5&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

There is an amp that qualifies for my needs. There are 6 total speakers in Tacoma (AC) for me. The wiring seems to show that the head unit provides signal to the dash tweeters which then feed inline signal to the door speakers (front). There are a set of rear speakers as well that feed off the rear signal.

The amp I showed above has Line Input for front and back, then RCA output for the amp (which is non-filtered). You can filter bass out of the other speakers to clean them up a bit and cut distortion.

I plan on replacing the stock speakers, picking up that amp, feeding the signal basically from the head unit Line Input -> Amp -> (Tweeters -> Front Speakers using stock wiring). Then run the power from the amp to the rear speakers as well.

To put in new speakers, I believe you'll need new brackets, tweeters will need to be custom, I can't find any brackets made yet, the doors are 6x9 or 6 1/2 (don't hold me to that #), and the rears are 5 1/2 and both sets will need brackets which I think are available on *********.com .

Good Luck

 

Line level and RCA level are the same thing. You want an amp that can handle speaker level inputs.

 

Ugh I knew I should look up the term again. I meant speaker level

 

There's a few threads on the Audio & Video forum dealing with audio installs. Mr. Marv has a tutorial thread that's pretty good and he also can provide the brackets that you'll need for the new speakers along with the speakers and amp if so desired. If you send him a PM and tell him what you're looking for he will provide a recommendation on a system, he's also really good at answering any questions. Most that swap out there OEM speakers take it a step further and install sound deadening material while the door panels are off.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2005-tacoma-double-cab-complete-audio-install-tutorial.16252/

Also check out the thread below, he provides some details that are specific to the 2016 not covered in some of the other threads.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-tacoma-double-cab-audio-install-build.402547/

 

Ok so I bought a Line Out Converter and this amp

$77 BOSS Audio Systems R1100M Riot Series Car Audio Subwoofer Amplifier - 1100 High Output, Monoblock, Class A/B, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Low/High Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, Mosfet Power Supply, Stereo

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00 with a 10" pioneer sub. How the hell do I hook this up? I have a 2016 Tacoma with the non JBL Entune HU.

 

*********.com has everything you need

 

http://*********.com

 

I'm currently upgrading my own Taco and here is what I have learned thus far. The OEM head unit is programmed to manipulate the sound to prevent damage and distortion to the stock speakers. As a result, the OEM head unit will require an equalizer (physical or digital) when installing aftermarket speakers/subs. If there is no equalizer, the OEM head unit will only control your bass, treble, and fade and will undoubtedly give poor sound quality. ********* is an equalizer that comes with a harness already soldered so that the OEM connections are not cut.

The same harness can be made with male/female wiring harness and some soldering. ********* seems to be a good product but it's not integral for a new audio system. I'm going to be installing a Kicker 1000.5. It's basically a DSP (digital signal processor equalizer) in combination with a 5-channel Amplifier. I like this option since I didn't want to use a lot of space behind the rear seats for mounting. I just want it under the drivers seat. Some equalizers are so small, they can fit in the dash, which many people decide to do.

I am mounting a 10" sub behind the driver side rear seat. The box is shorter than the seat buckles so I don't have to remove them. Keep in mind that premium car equalizers are sold at authorized dealers and the cheaper brands tend to be sold online.
DSPs have more to offer in terms of manipulating sound with distance, crossover, time-delay, compression, and limiter features.

Amps vary depending on how they are used. I plan to power up my front/rear/sub speakers with my Amp so I am getting a 5-channel. I am also getting new speakers that will be able to handle the increased power. A mono-channel Amp would simply be used to power up a good sub.

 

I just ordered the OEM Audio+ solution. Did a ton of research and this system appears to be very well engineered. The selling points for me was the plug and play nature, detailed install video, and overwhelming praise from all online reviews I could find across various forums. Lead time is 2 weeks. I'll post my review once I have it installed.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...r-2016-tacoma-doublecab.420377/#post-12018723

 

Sorry to revive an old thread but I thought I'd share my setup. I just installed an all-in-one unit (Infinity Basslink) in my 2017. The Basslink has a built-in amp that offers speaker level inputs. This is a must for a factory deck setup (or you can purchase a line out converter). I purchased the "add-a-subwoofer" harness from ********* which is plug-n-play and adds lead wires from your rear speakers that can be used as a signal to your amp. I ran the leads from the harness to my Basslink's amp and plugged them in. Everything worked like a charm after getting power to the sub and turning everything on. My Basslink also has an auto-on feature that works with the speaker level inputs so no remote line needed for my setup. ********* also provides a remote plug-n-play harness as well if you need it. One thing to note, *********' add-a-subwoofer harness only adds leads for your rear speakers. So you get leads for two speakers to use as a signal, not four. This is fine as I feel it provides an adequate signal. Yes, you can go further and add a line-out converter to help deliver a better signal but I really just wanted to add more punch and more bass and this setup did the trick. Happy with the setup.

 

Question. I have a 16 limited w/premium jbl. I want to do the speaker in the bed cubby hole for tailgating/unloading/shits and giggles.

I plan to run a small 2 channel amp to power the speaker. What would be the correct way to get audio signal? Does the premium head unit allow for output? I'm just trying to do research.. haven't installed any car radio stuff since I was a teenager in my civic almost a decade ago. Need halllllllp

 

I think the same thing applies here. You can use the ********* "add-a-subwoofer" harness which basically adds a set of rear speaker signal wires. You would then run the wires from the harness to your amp and then run the cubby hole speakers from the amp. You'll just want to make sure the amp isn't filtering out the low level sound (Lpf or low pass filter) and is instead pushing the full signal through to your cubby speakers. Make sense?

 

yes it does make sense. so is the harness all i need? Or do i need that ********* equalizer thing?

In my head its like ... Entune> Head Unit > Harness > AMP > whatever speakers i add.

I also thought of.... I never use my Aux cable. and just for the sake of music in bed...

Could i do.
Iphone > 3.5 jack to RCA> RCA to AMP > AMP to speaker?... i would just have to think of a way to turn the amp and speakers on/off from a switch instead of it being constantly on when im not playing music..


Cuz realistically. I wouldnt need the car to play if the bed is playing too.. even then i could be ghetto and use a splitter right? lol

 

I'm not entirely sure how to get the iphone/3.5 method to work but I'm sure you could figure something out. Sounds a bit complicated and I'm not sure it's worth it.

But yes, you have it right for the most part. You use the harness on the back of the head unit and run the leads to the amp you want to supply power to your bed speakers. Make sure the amp you buy has an LPF on/off switch so that your rear speakers aren't outputting only low levels like a subwoofer. The amp also needs speaker inputs AND full-range speaker outputs. The speaker inputs on the amp is where you would plug the wires from the harness into. The speaker outputs would be where your truck bed speakers would plug into. Also, to make things easier, make sure the amp you get also has an "auto-on" feature. This feature eliminates the need for a remote wire that connects to the back of an aftermarket deck to turn the amp on when the headunit turns on (taco-tunes sells a harness for this as well but if you can find an amp with auto-on, that would be the best way to go). The auto-on feature on an amp will automatically turn the amp on once it detects a signal from the speaker inputs coming from the harness. Also, this is pretty obvious, don't forget that you'll need to run power from your battery to the amp as well as find a good ground wire spot near where you mount the amp (seat bolt is a good place and mounting the amp under your seat would be a good place as well).

In regards to an on/off switch for your truck speakers when you're not using them. The simplest would probably to to install a toggle switch in between the harness leads that connect into the amp. This way you effectively kill the signal to the amp making it so the amp doesn't even turn on when the bed speakers aren't in use. You could probably even get that factory look and install the switch in one of the available spots on one of your switch panels.

 

I personally think you're nuking it.. Buy a nice bluetooth speaker and keep it in the cubby. If you're dying to run some wires you could wire up its own power supply.

 

I did it last year. Here's my thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-bbp-audio-build.430252/

 

@tacogeorge makes a good point here. If I just wanted audio for tailgaters, I'd Bluetooth speaker it for sure. So many great options nowadays.

 

For an amp under the drivers seat, does the seat bolt provide a good enough ground. Thanks

 

There is a perfect bundle of existing grounds directly between the seat bolts at the front that I used.