Adding an aux fusebox

@Lawfarin , @nevadabugle

Hi everyone,

Has anybody here bought an decent quality aftermarket fusebox to add into your truck?
For those who aren't as skilled and have the time to spend like @nevadabugle here who did this insane DIY fusebox mod

If you do, please let me know because I' could use one. I'm looking for part #, information that could be used to buy one.
Thanks!

 

Hello Eden,
There's a number of ways to add an aux fuse block to your truck and there are multiple threads on how to do that. Some of you option include:

Blue Sea fuse block (probably one of the most popular if you want to DIY it):
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/blue-sea-aux-fuse-block-install.340763/


Bussman box:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/


Switchpros panel (a little more expensive, but worth it if you wan a clean and simple setup)
http://www.pelfreybilt.com/#!product/prd1/4261163475/switch-pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXA1eVxxlRM


NSA fuse block from Trail toys (if you want to be wireless and would rather not route wires or add swithes to your interior). This is one of the easiest ways IMO.
http://trailtoys.net/t/electronics

I'll post liks for all these in a minute, but there are pros and very few cons to each choice. Some of it may depend on what your intentions are and what accessories you plan to run of the added fuse block. A little more info about what you plan on running? That way we could steer you in the right direction.

 

Edit:
All links have been added. It's a lot of reading, I know. Let us know what you plan on doing and we can help guide you and narrow down your search. It would also make things a bit easier to wrap your head around if you've never done it before or have no wiring experience.

 

Awesome information!



I'm sure the OP will learn something from it!

 

How cow! That bussman how-to is amazing!

 

Great info!

 

^^What he said! ^^

 

BTW...Not to high jack the thread, but do any of those links include a 'how to' add a "switched" fuse box for power with ignition on only?
Sorry, I do admit to being lazy in asking this :/
Cheers!

 

Thanks @GHOST SHIP , these are exhaustive, lots to read and might need to seek help. I will reach out with more questions soon

 

I know it's a lot to take in Eden, but let us know if you have any questions and we'll help you work through it. What are your plans for the fuse block? What accessories do you plan on powering through it? Anything with huge power draws like a winch or a fridge? This information will help us point you in the right direction. Honestly, I can probably help you pick out everything you need for your project if I knew what you were trying to build.

 

Buried somewhere in the blue sea box write up (first link) is the information you seek. The short answer is you tap into a keyed fuse from your existing fuse block. That wire triggers a relay that then powers the fuse block. I don't remember the specifics of wire gauge or amp/power requirements so you'll have to find that on your own, but it's in there.

 

How about something like this? Mount made by @Pelfreybilt

 

Hi there @GHOST SHIP :

I want to address some:
What are your plans for the fuse block?
What accessories do you plan on powering through it?
I wanted to install one light with articulating mount that sits back of my cab pointed towards my bed to provide light when we have tailgates, camping, cook outs at the beach. Since my truck has an outlet in the back, but the truck bed light is not quite bright enough.
I want to connect the power for the pop-n-lock, and for my dashcam's vico battery box. These ones don't need switches/fuses. I didn't want to connect the wires directly to the battery's positive terminal like I am told for many devices. The ground as well.

 

Gotcha Eden,
Depending on budget and what accessories you have planned for the future (aside from the ones you mentioned), there will be a few more things we could address. I would recommend a 6 fuse Blue Sea box setup (you could go with 12 if you plan on adding a bunch of things later on- 1 fuse per accessory). Mainly because this will be your cheapest option, but also because of the DIY nature of the project will get you familiar with wiring and you'll be a pro by the end of it and be able to diagnose and fix any issues that may arise later on. You could have everything running "constant hot" meaning that the truck does not need to be on for you to use your lights or other accessories. Here's what I would suggest:
Blue sea fuse block:

$30 Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block 6 Circuit with Ground and Cover

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...id=1465623802&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+6+fuse
and a 100 amp breaker:

Blue Sea Systems 285-Series Circuit Breaker

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Systems-285-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B01ENZVS7G/ref=pd_sim_200_10?ie=UTF8&dpID=51qY+Noj5EL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR112%2C160_&refRID=6MAYSC5K689FX8PYCZCV
The breaker acts as your failsafe for the entire system and should not be skipped. There are cheaper options out there if you're not anal about having everything "match", I personally run a Bussman breaker on mine:

$33 Bussmann CB185-100 100 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB185-100-Type-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00139FQSS/ref=pd_sim_200_8?ie=UTF8&dpID=51x-lREahiL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=6MAYSC5K689FX8PYCZCV
Depending on how much power you plan to pull to your accessories, you will want to add relays:

$16 EPAuto 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V, 5-PIN SPDT Bosch Style - 5 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-...8&qid=1465624182&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=rtelay
From what you have listed you will not need them, but they are worth mentioning.

As far as the mounting plate goes, a lot of people like to mount their auxiliary fuse blocks in the engine bay since there is room right next to the factory fuse box. There are a few members and vendor that sell them made just for these setups such as Pelfreybilt (great company to deal with BTW-http://www.pelfreybilt.com/#!product/prd1/3488834761/blue-sea-fuse-panel), and @Yotamac over at TacomaPros (http://www.tacomapros.com/electronical-bussmann-rtmr/). They list them only for the 12 fuse box, but I'm sure they can get you straightened out if you ask them. Both have excellent customer service. Another option is to make your own panel. The link I posted previously shows how one member made a panel out of plexiglass (or lexan, i forget, but he mentions that there is a difference between the two). I made mine out of a small piece of aluminum i found in the remnant pile at my metal shop. Only cost $5 and some time with my table saw. To be perfectly honest though, you could mount the fuse block anywhere you like (with or without a mounting panel) as long as there is room. Some people have mounted them behind the rear seats, under the center console, etc. You can get creative, but just keep in mind that if you ever have to service the box or change a fuse, you would want it to be accessible.

You'll want a heavy gauge wire to run a positive and negative from your battery to the breaker/box (most likely a 4 ga.), but all your accessories can be run by 14-16 ga wire. You can go a heavy as you like on the supply wires here, but I would try not to go thinner than 16 ga.

I am not sure if you already have your bed lights picked out, but from the sound of it, you might want to look at these as they might fit your needs. It's a nice complete kit that looks really nice and has some flexibility.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/better-bed-lights.396909/
Of course there are other options, but I thought they looked right for you.

Wiring your switch(es) will be tricky depending on what style of switch you want as well as what trim level your truck is (which will affect where you can add switches) so we'll touch on that later if you wish.

One last thing, having your pop-n-lock and dash cam connected to the fuse block in this setup with no switch in between will mean that they will constantly be supplied with power. That may mean that the dash cam will always be on and that your pop-n-lock will also be powered all the time. If you're ok with that, then party on!
I personally have my dash cam tapped into an "accessory on" fuse in the truck which means that they turn on when the key is in the "on" position. Just food for thought.

I apologize if I'm being long winded, but I'm trying to compress a lot of information to a single post. Just remember, you asked or it.
Let me know if this helps or if you have more questions. I'd be happy to help.

 

Thanks @GHOST SHIP
Please also check out our threads on here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bussmann-rtmr-and-rfrm-kits.415781/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bussman-rtmr-fuse-relay-boxs-complete-kits-and-blue-sea-mounting-plates.294195/

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

^See? Good guy!

@Eden4x2 The bussman kit that @Yotamac sells is a more compact version of the blue sea box and it is all wired up and ready to go straight from him. It's an all-inclusive box that takes all the guess work out of the equation and makes things a lot easier for you if you don't want to mess with wiring everything in yourself.

 

Wow @GHOST SHIP : Thanks so much for that write up. I like clearly written verbose instructions or else it would invite questions and back and forth which I try to avoid, so this write up was excellent for a newbie girl to get hands dirty in your world. I like every bit of the write up. As much as I want to buy these parts and wire them up myself (I do some projects like those at home), I'd rather take your advice and buy a kit like the one you mentioned. Thanks for that. I'd like to have my fusebox with relays then, at-least for 3 out of the 6. 6 accessories is way to much anyway. In all honesty I won't need more than 2. I have some doubt about though, The box from the vendor there has the base plate to mount it on my truck and fusebox and breaker, and all the relays seem to be hanging loose. Where do they go?

Also, I'd have to find a spot to mount this plate in the engine bay itself, and the room behind the battery, friend said he's going to put the oil catch can we bought, that is small though, so perhaps there might be room left. I've got to see, I can take pictures and update here.

The bedlights you picked out is far better than what I've anticipated. I was wondering how I am going to install a light, and this is such a brilliant idea to mount them on that light fixture. I am going to place an order for that tonight, I like it. I' want to ask him if that frame fits a '16 model's back light too. As for the switches, my model is a sport TRD, and I have this little cubby coin box to the left of my steering wheel next to the switch panel there. I am not too sure which ones to go with yet either, but something that looks similar to standard ones. I know it would depend on my fusebox, but I'm certain 6 is wayy too many switches to install there, the max I think might fit would be 3, no more.There is also a spare switch thing there to install a switch perhaps.

The popnlock device I did the way somebody here mentioned, I believe he corrected a Youtube persons wiring and posted how to's. It was very helpful, its connected to some wires inside the passenger side kick panel, it was fairly easy and I felt thrilled doing that all by myself . The dash cam I have is a JooVoo X, and i also got a Vico vision battery manager for it, it's this one, so the camera is connected to that battery manager (not connected to hot yet) which requires to be connected to the positive terminal. The box has a timer on it that will automatically cut off power after some time. The camera has some motion snap feature I use. So like the popand lock device this one needs to be connected to positive as well, but I don't want to directly connect this wire straight to the battery's positive. Is there a built-in fusebox in the truck where I can connect it's power to? I saw a YouTube video how to use it a while back. Currently the dashcam is just plugged into the trucks power supply directly, so it starts when the truck starts, but this I plan to put into my truck next.

 

I'm not sure what to buy from that tacomaprop website . I just want an already wired fusebox with wires for the appliance and switches and wire to connect to + and - of my battery.

 

PM me with what your looking for, I can help and will get you set up.

 

Relays are do not necessarily cut off the parasitic draw you get from having accessories connected to your battery. Relays are more for enhancing or amplifying a power signal for high draw accessories (such as a 50" LED roof bar). If you tried to run something like that straight to the battery, you run the risk of tripping fuses or worse like burning wires. There is always going to be some parasitic loss, but in your case and the accessories you mentioned, I would not worry about it running your battery down. As long as you plan on turning the truck on once every 30 days, you should be ok. The Bussman box that Yotamac sells has everything enclosed in a weather resistant enclosure, (relays and all) so there is nothing else to mount other than the breaker. The two items are very small and could fit almost anywhere I don't have the exact dimensions, but they are somewhere around, 4"x4"x2" for the box and 2"x2"x.75" for the breaker. The closer you can have them to the battery the better, but again, not necessary.
Those bed lights are snazzy. I haven't seen them in person, but the pictures look promising. I did not know you had a '16 so I'm not sure if he has a kit to fit them yet.
CaliRaised has a small panel that could fit the open coin cubby and provide space for 3 switches:
http://www.caliraisedled.com/product/2016-toyota-tacoma-switch-panel
I think there is someone else that makes one too, but I can't remember at the moment.

With something like the Switchpros box or the NSA box, all these concerns would be moot since they are far more complete kits.
The Switchpros unit comes with it's own small "switch" faceplate (they are small buttons rather than traditional rocker switches) that you can mount practically anywhere you have a 2"x3" space.
The NSA box comes with a small keychain sized remote you can again put anywhere. This unit is wireless to the remote (you still have to wire your accessories to the box just like everything else) so you don't have to run separate wires into the cab for switches. It essentially cuts your wiring work in half if you think about it that way.