Fender Trimming for 33s w/ 3.5" BS

I recently installed a set of 285/75/16 AT tires on 16x8 wheels with 3.5” backspacing. I actually ordered wheels with 4.5” backspacing but I was sent the wrong ones and chose to keep them because I got a huge discount on them.

I’m trying to figure out the best way to trim my fenders to eliminate rubbing. I already removed the fender flares to make the truck drivable on the street. It is hard for me to know exactly how much I will need to trim at full lock because I have just driven it on pavement. I have an aftermarket bumper so there is no issue with that side of the front wheel wells.

Will I need to cut around the entire perimeter of the fenders such as done in this thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-modify-fenders-for-bigger-tires.136689/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tools-for-cutting-fenders.435973/page-2

(post #27)

If I use a jigsaw to cut the steel fenders around the entire border and a razor around the fender flare, should I worry remounting the plastic inner fender well?

Should I just worry about the back of the front fender? Will I need to trim the back fenders as well?

I attached some pictures so you can get an idea of how its looking now..

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!!

 

Bump

 

What kind of lift are you running in the front?

 

OME lift with 886 coils and 1/4" top plate spacer.

 

I have 4.5 and I scrape I can't imagine 3.5
you can start cutting and do a cmc or just get 1 inch spacers, I would imagine that would be an easier way to go.

 

I'm sure with just 285's you don't need to trim the entire front fender. Just do a good cab mount chop and trim the plastic and crap above the cab mount.

 

Damn, I was hoping you'd say "Oh I'm stock." so I could tell you to lift your truck and avoid rubbing and save your fenders.

I just can't picture how that extra inch of wheel sticking out causes that much rubbing.

 

With 3.5" bs, his wheels stick out an inch more than yours.

 

3.5" sticks out 1" farther than 4.5" back spacing so spacers would'nt help the issue, just make it worse. Thanks for your input though!

 

You can also max out your caster to gain you a little more clearance.

 

With lower BS, the wheels are further out from the axis of rotation, cause them to move more when turning, hence greater rubbing when turning.

 

I don't know what else to tell you man. You don't need to trim your entire fender. Good luck!

 

Crap I went the wrong way.

 

So I've decided I am going to do the cab mount chop, bash in the pinch weld, cut the backs of the front fenders and probably adjust the caster to move the wheels forward.

Does anyone know if I will have to trim the rear at all? Because the wheels stick out so far I'm concerned they will rub at full lock because they won't stuff completely inside the wheel well but will rub on the fender. Thanks everyone for all the help!!

 

I think you should be fine with just doing a little trimming on the flare vs the actual steel fender. I just cut a little off the front and rear very bottom corners. As mentioned by another member set castor to move wheel forward, cmc and flatten pinch weld. I have trd fjc trails team wheels and am running 1.25" wheel spacers ( have to run them to clear shock tabs on tc lower arms) so I'm pretty close to where your at. At this point I still have not had to flatten pinch weld but did cmc even before lift was added. Good luck

 

You can also grab a ruler and measure up from the top and edges of the tire to the body to get an idea.

Especially on the rear, estimating available up travel is easy.

 

take the coilover out and stuff the wheel fully while turning lock to lock, see where it rubs and cut said metal out. Pretty simple really.