how to replace front rotors and pads

Hello-

Did a quick search but couldn't find any step by step instructions on how to replace front rotors and pads on 1st Gen 1996 tacoma 2wd. My main question is whether you need to remove the axle nut and bearings to remove the entire rotor assembly from the axle. It appears that the "rotor" is bolted to a separate piece that has the lug nuts and houses the outer and inner axle bearings. Does anyone know if this is correct and where to find step-by-step instructions to replace the rotors?


Thanks,

Okii

 

In for the knowledge. Did you try YouTube? If anyone does find a write up, post a link here. And if anyone decides to write one up, post lots of pictures.

 

*a picture would be nice*
If your is a 6 lug then no, not sure about 5 lugs :
Take picture of brake assembly, this will help you reinstall everything in the correct way
1. remove 2 17mm bolts from rear of caliper
2. Hang caliper with bungee cord off to the side
3. Disc can now be removed, it might need some love tap just be careful not to damage treads.
4. Put New disc on.
5. Put caliper back on and torque to spec.
6. Remove retainer pin, remove 2x slide pin and bracket that goes in between the slide pins
7. Remove 2x pads by pulling up and replace with New pads.
8. Reinstall in reverse order
You should not have to add brake fluid, if you do there is something else wrong with your brake system. For example leak in brakeline
*sorry I don't have pictures*

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6smTU_SnPg

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/127-1995-5-2004/175666-2004-2wd-5-lug-brake-pads-rotors.html

there ya go

 

Before you pull the old pads open up your brake fluid resavour. Take a c-clamp and squeeze the old brake pads and caliper together. Do this slowly and make sure brake fluid doesn't spill out. Brake fluid will eat paint.

What this allows is for you to install the new pads and put the caliper over the disk when you re install

 

The vid gives good instruction, but at 8:11 he starts to repack the bearing by hand... that's the shittiest exhibition of a bearing pack I've ever seen Good entertainment for me.

 

Thanks for the info and video. Since I have a 5 lug like in the video, looks like I'll have to remove the bearings etc. Is there a better way to repack the bearings than what is shown? Any idea what the torque specs are for the various bolts? Doesn't seem to be using a torque wrench in the video. Also, I'm not sure how he knew that the axle/spindle nut was tight enough. He just says "you wouldn't want this on very tight". That seems pretty subjective.

Thanks all.

 

Hey Aught2TaCO,

So what is the right way to pack the front wheel bearings. I never had a problem doing it as shown on the video, but like to learn about your better method.

I replace the front brakes a couple of months ago. The write up is here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-brakes-on-2wd-2-4l.434566/#post-12557947

EJPHI

 

I'm not watching that video but I'm gonna assume your talking about a wheel bearing. Now before you pull it apart is there a pre-load on that bearing? I'd find that out because you can mess up your bearing pretty good. Now saying that.... I'd just use some blue loctite on my calipersite and put those bolts on asshole tight.

 

I didn't check the pre-load after putting things together, but I did confirm that the wheel spun just like it did before I took everything apart. The torques for all bolts are well specified and locktite is not called for in the FSM. If Toyota didn't think it was neccesary, why do you?

 

The guy had the placing of grease in his palm right, after that it was downhill. You're supposed to keep the bearing as clean as possible in order to see the grease being pushed between the rollers from bottom to top. The dude started out okay, but then just dunked the bearing in the grease and smeared it all over the bearing, which lost visual progress of a full grease pack. That's what I found funny, and also he didn't use a mallet while installing the dust cap, he hammered the shit out of it, contradicting his own words of "you don't want to bend the metal while doing this" or something to that effect. IMO the dude is a hack and would never get close to my rig with a clean rag, but that's just me.

 

to pack the bearings (mind you it's been years since I've had to) don't you push the grease thru the bearing by hand and work it around the circle to make sure you get every spot?

lika dis: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-repack-your-wheel-bearings.html

 

Yup, that's how to do it, but the hack in the video starts out OK, but then he dabs at the grease like dunking a cookie in a cup of coffee, then dumps the bearing into the grease and then just smears the grease all over the bearing. Not a good bearing pack. What I was taught to do, is scrape the grease off your hand with the bearing until grease can be seen at the top of the bearing, then move to the next section. Make sure not to let the rollers move, just keep a firm grip on the bearing. When grease is visible at the top, in between all of the rollers, fill in the top of the bearing and THEN smear grease all over the bearing. Then you're good to go.
The video isn't all bad, it was the way the mechanic demonstrated a bearing pack that I found funny(acting like a goofball), and very misinforming. With the internet, people have tackled a project in which they lack skills and knowledge, and have to end up paying way more than expected. If some kid watches that vid and copies what he/she saw, 100% guarantee new bearings will be bought, and hopefully before it might seize up on the highway and create a worse situation.

 

So I’m currently replacing my worn rotors and this video y’all are referencing does nothing for someone who lives well out fiber optic range and cell reception. I just don’t have the patience to spend 45 minutes to watch a 2 min video segment via satellite internet. So if someone could please just let me know if there’s a trick to removing this 17mm located dead fucking center of my hub.

 

I usually leave about 0.001" of preload when I do wheel bearings. Obviously you can't measure it with feelers(or maybe you can?) but what I learned from my old school aircooled VW is that you want to spin the wheel and then turn in the retaining nut. As soon as the inertia of the wheel starts reacting to the nut being tightened, you stop and you back it out about 10-15 degree of a turn.

The wheel should have no wobble at all to it. If the bearing is on too tight or loose, it will fail prematurely.

And yes, like others have said. You want to pack the grease into the bearing before installing. I take a large blob into my left palm and then I put my index and middle finger of my right hand into the middle of wheel bearing and them "munch" at the grease with the larger side. You'll be surprised how much grease it takes. I also pack grease into the spindle.

 

Be careful removing those nuts. I'm not sure how it is on your 5 lug truck but some vehicles have left hand threads on the retaining nuts. Take a look at the threading to find which direction it goes.