NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Well it was destroying the boots like yours, but by extension I assume it wasn't great for the shafts either, I will look into more on this diff drop, rather not add something that does more harm then good. Also i took a look at those CVJ boots and those seem pretty nice from what I read. Something to think about for sure....

 

Don't need extended front lines for any mid travel coil over, only if you want a stainless steel braided versus the stock.

As for CVJ boots I love them. Been running mine for almost 2 years with the orange extended boots and haven't ripped any. Liked them so much I got them to build my LT axles with the same boots.

 

Never had to replace due to shafts. You'll hear the CVs grinding when they want replacement.

 

I would not feel confident making my own... I am with with basic maintenance and that's about it lol

 

Since Mike has passed, that's from Total Recall.

With regard to 1.25" vs 1" uniballs: Remember that bigger is not always better, my friends. Try to find a 100% stainless 1.25" uniball setup. First one to find them I'll buy a beer. (Don't waste too much time on it.)

Now, 1" uniballs? Yep, you'll find those in stainless. There's a reason why TC has been leading the charge in IFS suspension/LT components for so long. It's not their higher price tag either =)

 

From my personal experience, get the V6. I have a 4 cylinder 5 speed ACLB. When stock, my wife maxed it out at 22 MPG. Stock v6 is still rated to get something like 19 MPG.
If you plan to dump a bunch of extra money in later to lift, get bigger wheels, and regear, don't bother with the E-locker now. If you don't think you will regear ever, then consider the e locker. Just know it's only the rear axle that the locker engages on, not the front. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but as I recall, the e locker also only works in 4low unless you do some modding.

I've taken my truck out plenty of times and made it through things that I wasn't sure I'd get through, and without a locker. These trucks are impressively capable from the factory floor.

As far as configuration, look to what the primary purpose of the truck will be. If you want to turn it into a trail monster, probably standard cab long bed. My in laws occasionally use the bed of their truck, but more often have others riding with them, so they got a DCSB. I knew I was going to utilize my bed a lot but needed more cab space than standard cab, so I got ACLB. @penguins_cc <----Will has a trail limo, which is DCLB, so he has the longest wheelbase, with full backseats and long bed.

 

http://www.ishock.com/i-18581666-st...ma-uca-misalignment-set-for-1-25-uniball.html

 

Total Recall (original Arnie version)

 

Oops, didn't see your post!

 

Swearing...

 

Got my dakars in the mail! Now I need a mod day at someone's garage. I hate living in apartments.

 

Mod daaaaaaay

 

Come on over. I have tools, jack stands, jack, and space. This weekend won't work though.

 

So that abomination of a snorkel filter flew off at 60 mph. I ain't even mad because it didn't hit anyone and I just found it after it had been hiding for 3 years.

 

Oh shit! I guess that thing was up like a pariscope on a sub! Did it fit securely on there or needed a silicon reducer?

 

It was pretty damn secure, I'm surprised it went as far as it did

 

He did say 100% stainless. Try finding the "cup" in 1.25 stainless.

But seriously moly vs stainless.....in our environment just clean and lube them properly and you wont have an issue. Though if picking between the two Im going stainless

V6. Dont think youll hear much complaints about that! The rest....kind of just depends. If you plan to do things like regear, bigger tires, higher end mid travel/long travel, ect....id go for a more basic model like the SR5/standard. Why...cause you end up replacing and upgrading most of the crap you just paid a premium for. The e-locker is an ok locker but a air locker is strong IMO (an ARB one at least). You can use the e-locker in any mode but you need a small relay and to cut into your wiring harness. Now if you plan to keep it more stock but to say just upgrade suspension...id go for the off-road model. Gets you the locker, atrac, hill assist, couple other things im forgetting. So you get nice things to have if you werent planning to upgrade them anyways. The suspension is meh on any model and well worth upgrading on any model. Anything besides the atrac type stuff you can add yourself if you really want...like a transmission cooler or towing.

As to which model in the sense of Single cab, access cab, double cab, long bed/short bed. Again just comes to use. If you need the room for passengers..DC. I went with the access cab and ripped out the rear area and built a platform. Opens the space up nicely and I can store a lot of crap inside. Not as much room as a DC but plenty of space to keep clothes dry, store my cooler, and some other things. DC with a long bed can be rough in our neck of the woods. Tighter trails so longer truck...you get the idea.

 

Me too it's like living in a motel you can't check out of in the morning.

 

Interesting. Have to look into this.. I think the only part not stainless on the All Pro is the bolt, which is grade 8 or 10. the center part that goes thru the ball and mounts in the top of the spindle appears to be S/S on the all pro as well. Is there some other part that should be S/S? What am I missing?

Far as I can tell, both are chrome moly arms, Teflon cups, S/S balls and guts, high grade bolt.

Edit:
It's the race that the ball cup sits in that is chrome moly on the 1.25" arms! Found it!
Good point @AWilson013 !

 

Cool guys, thanks for the heads up! Guess I can be a little looser now with my search criteria.