Icon Dynamics Stage # Lift Thread

As do I. I noticed the other day as I was pulling through a drive through with my window down, my truck sounded like a rusty old ford and I was concerned, still am...
I was able to go home and recreate the sound by lifting up and down on the wheel well.
The squeaks are gone for now, but I don't think the problem is resolved. I don't really notice the noise with the windows up, AC on and the JBL system bumping, but not to say it hasn't annoyed others. Ignorance is bliss.
Bad news with the warranty is Toyota will replace with another inadequate rubber bushing rather than a beefier nylon available as an aftermarket part.

 

so with you being a dealer and as somebody who pushes it once you get the valving all setup will you be selling a kit with your valving?

 

What UCA are you running? I'm setup with the SPC and was having severe rubbing issues until I was able to get the truck into an alignment shop that knew what they were doing. Granted, I'm only running 275 70 17, but I do have a -12 offset and the stock mudguards still in place with plenty of room to spare at the closest angles.

The prescribed resolve with the SPC UCA is to max out the caster in the Lower control arm, moving the wheel forward/ away from the cab, and balancing out the caster and camber through the upper control arm. Per the SPC UCA forum, best results come from alignment specs with 3 degrees of caster(will vary side to side to account for crown in the road)/ 0 Camber and 0 Toe. Not at all within Toyota factory specs, but neither is your truck anymore.

Hopefully you can get your issue resolved with an alignment shop that knows what they're doing. Good luck!

 

Of all the excellent upgrades you've loaded on your taco, my eyes are drawn to what look like matching orange anodized lug nuts that pull it all together. Nice touch, bad ass truck!

 

I couldn't recreate it. But it sounds awful. I'm going to lube some things up.

 

Once you go through the alignment drill and get your castor where it needs to be jack up each front wheel seperate and lock them both ways to see where they rub, mark it, cut and you may need to Cmc if your gonna off-road. That check will let you know what you have to do.

 

how much?

 

I am running the icon tube uca. Ive had it aligned it shows everything to be in the green which is acceptable. According to factory specs. But I am interested in hearing more about any adjustment that might bring the wheel forward more fromthe cab. That seems like it would be the answer. Care to eleborate more or possibly direct me to a forum that would much appreciated

 

^^ already @RynoDyno contemplating a bounce up? My first choice was a king/tc setup.....just so happens "Donohoe" well Icon branded today gave me everything I need for now in that stage4 minus 20% price tag... I am definitely gonna put this setup through the paces minus 20-25 years of age difference, probably the age for most Tacoma drivers today, mid 30's I am guessing, of what they would consider putting it through the paces...I am just looking for balanced performance and reliability no matter what color my suspension.....

 

Sorry to sound like a total newb what is a cmc? I see where it rubs its on the body mount right behind the wheel. Ivew ground it down but isnt enough after three separate grindings and also 4 wheel parts cutting it away and welding a piece on to block the hole from the cutting

 

Look up positive and negative caster, we are looking for 2.7* caster but it's late and I don't want to steer you wrong, Ha ha,but that castor is going to push the wheel more one way or the other....

 

Cab mount chop, big rubbing point just aft front wheels.
Start here and take the BAMF link in this post to get the visuals and the product to help you get it done.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/danactives-hope-to-be-featured-someday-build.434122/page-2

 

You may have to do some digging specific to the icon uca. The SPC allows for camber and caster adjustment up top, so you're free to crank the cams in the LCA to bring the wheel forward. By doing this, you're increasing caster, but also messing with the camber. Unfortunately, it's an art that most alignment shops don't dabble in. Hopefully there are others on this site who have resolved the same issue. Also, content on the matter related to gen. 2 tacomas is relevant since the suspension has largely remained the same. Best of luck!

 

I would have to agree with @Despized . Full disclosure, that I did not educate myself to the level of knowing that I was purchasing a digressive shock setup (vs. progressive), but I have been surprised at how harsh the ride is with my Icon stage 2 kit. Trust me, I knew there would be a tradeoff going from stock to a high performance suspension setup, but the smallest pot-hole or bump in the road sends a wave of shakes through my truck. At this point I am thinking that in the long term I will definitely have to switch to something else, otherwise every bolt in my truck is going to rattle off eventually. That is extreme, but it can't be good for the truck in the long term. I plan on researching Fox and making the switch at some point soon.

 

Can someone elaborate on the progressive vs digressive system?

 

Progressive has the earlier portion of travel run through easily on impact but as it goes further in the travel it ramps up in stiffness at a non-linear rate. Digressive is the opposite, in that it takes much more force to move through the earlier portion of travel but the later portion of travel requires less force. Therefor, the small potholes and bumps are quite jarring but bigger hits feel a lot smoother on the digressive system. I think that's how it goes anyway.

 

So progressive would be better for daily driving and slow speed off-roading like trails and rock crawling. Digressive is suited best for Baja type off-roading. Glad I chose to purchase an Icon system.

 

Also, kinda new to trucks so, how hard is it to turn the pre-load ring on the Icon coilovers? It seems pretty tight even after I loosen the set screw but that could just be normal, though I'd rather not mess up the threads or anything like that. The reason I ask is I keep getting rubbing, I did the CMC and had it aligned and I still get rubbing on the drivers side. I've cut the inner shroud some but it keeps rubbing a bit which then pulls more of the plastic outwards towards the tire. It really only does it when I have my wheels turned and I go over a bump or when I reverse with the wheels turned. Any help would be appreciated. Also would getting the SPC UCA's instead help add caster? I seem to have lost the alignment sheet so I'm not sure what the numbers are.

 

Perhaps I mean if enough people request it I dont see why not! I mean shock set up is what I do for Race trucks and stuff so I imagine Id be happy to change some things and offer it out to everyone else.

 

Not very hard at all. You have to lift the truck so there is not weight on the springs then loosen the Allen screw and use the spanner wrench to turn the ring.