Improving AC?

Here is how this member added a fan to his truck.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-c-condenser-fan.239576/

 

check your 134a for service....mine was blowing hot air and I topped it off to middle of the green on the gauge and it works great now.

 

Truth there..... my buddies GMC would go full heat sometimes because the actuators were all messed up. that sucked.

 

If you guys are having this much of an issue with your A/C then you're probably not doing something right. I've lived in the desert of Arizona and the humid as hell Wisconsin and I've never had a problem.

Use a high quality windshield visor and crack your windows when parked. Leave the windows wide open and drive for a few blocks to get the hot air out. Close the passenger air vents.

 

I added morimoto fans and a insulated dash cover. Ac is nice and cold even at long idle sittings. The cover just keeps the dash from getting hot . So your not trying to cool the hot dash and the cab . You know when you get in on a hot day and the dash is so hot you can't touch it . The dash gets hot just driving around.

 

Looks great thanks for the photos. Here is an example of the temps I'm seeing according to the scan gauge.

177 is intake air
210 is transmission
224 is water

 

Forgot to ask:

#1 Did you make those brackets? They look really nice.
#2 what model number are those fans? I'd like to order the same.
#3 any tips? I'd like to repeat your install on my truck.

Thanks Chuck.

Ps doing this from my phone, sorry about the grammar.

 

Thanks!

 

Woah! I never see anything close to any of those. Transmission is the closest, and I've only approached that number towing up hill on a hot day. Guess that's the difference in AZ!

 

Yeah, stop and go on the i10 when it was 110 out gave me those temps!

 

Yes I made aluminum brackets. I used paper to make the shape then traced it on aluminum, cut with jigsaw,file the sharp edges. Riveted them in place. It's 1/8" thick aluminum . Bent on regular bench vise with rubber mallet. I bought fans at Amazon. Driver side is 10", passenger side is 12" about 60-70 bucks each. If you want the specs just go to morimoto.com under fans . There the slim ones . I bought a switch the (air on board) kind from eBay . It has a fan image on switch . And used a relay to power them cause the switch is only 3 amps. So to use them I turn them on with a dash switch. Same to turn them off the relay is ignition controlled so you don't forget when you turn truck off and drain battery. There are cheaper fans on eBay that look just like these. I've used them but they go bad in less then a year. ive had this and other moto fans on my other trucks and they haven't gone bad and some are 5 years old.

 

My bad it's mishimoto not morimoto. Sorry for confusion they so similar. Mishimoto.com Model MMFAN-12 12" MMFAN-10 10"

 

Coolant seems really high, intake seems a little high but understandable for AZ city driving. Do you have a short ram/ hot air intake?

224° is pretty darn high for the V6 but not enough to cause damage. If it were me I'd run Engine Ice or similar high end coolant. I've never seen my temps above 204°, typically around 184- 189°.

 

Air intake is stock. 100,000 miles now. Wondering if I should flush the coolant and check to see if there is junk between the condenser and radiator.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

You're due for a coolant flush at 100,000. Be sure to use distilled water if you get coolant that needs to be mixed. Drain the engine block too, not just the radiator. There are a few good How-to's on here. Yes, check around the radiator for anything blocking airflow.

Again, 224° isn't hot enough to do damage but it is certainly higher than I have seen on mine and I'd rather it not constantly run that hot.

What were the driving conditions when you saw 224° engine and 177° intake ? Stop and go traffic? Highway speed? 110°+ air temp?

 

There is a risk with 224 degrees however. That is 12 degrees ABOVE the boiling point of water. Only way to keep it from boiling is to pressurize it, which our systems do to typically 15 PSI or so. But ANY leak and the water flashes to steam and you are left with nothing but a quick shut-down to avoid damage. I'd hate to know what the temp would hit if you just did a quick shutdown. The heat-soak in the block would very possibly blow water out past the radiator cap if it doesn't blow the radiator hoses off first.

Ideally the temp should not exceed the trigger temp on the thermostat by much at all.

 

Thanks. It was stop and go and around 110 air temp.

 

Yeah, I'd like to keep it below 212 (boiling point of water) at all time if possible

 

This would only be relevant if we ran straight water in our trucks, which we don't. We typically run a 50/50 mix. Straight antifreeze boils at 387°. At 15 psi the coolant will begin to boil at 265°.