A/C Condenser Fan

Well I have had my Taco for about 4 months now and love it, probably the best decision I've made in a long time. My only complaint was; having bought it right at the beginning of summer heat, the A/C performance at a stop was not up to par. I found myself sweating all the way home (I have a short commute spent mostly at stop lights in heavy traffic). So I looked into helping it out and decided to install condenser fans. I wired them in per the actual Toyota wiring diagram, apparently Mexico built Tacomas without tow package can come equipped with a factory fan. So I thought I'd share my project and results for my fellow Taco owners.
Here are a few pics of the install sorry for quality they were with a cell phone.

Before the project began this is the space I had to work with...


I wanted to do a clean install that looked factory so I opted to do all my work in the factory junction block. This is a view of the underside where I was doing my work...


Using the junction block I was able to install a factory style relay in the only open relay spot in the junction block. Here is a pic with the relay installed...


Keeping with the clean look I wanted to keep the battery power source and fuse as hidden as possible but accessible, so I opted to put it in the junction block as well...

To have the system run like a factory fan I had to swap out the factory two post A/C pressure switch for a four post style which also required changing out the connector. These style switches are two switches in one; one acts as a pressure switch for the A/C system to detect too low or too high of pressures at which point the switch opens to shut off the system, the second one closes once a set pressure is reached. It is used to provide a ground for the relay. Here you can see I used wire loom to help keep my work looking factory.


After it was all said and done here's how it came out...


I originally used one 9" fan on the passenger side of the condenser, but after the install I noticed a slight difference but not what I was looking for. So after now having a better idea of the space I had to work with I opted for a 10" fan and decided to not let the 9" go to waste and decided to install it alongside the 10". You'll see it sits behind the trans cooler, as for clearance it is 1mm clearance if that but I have had no issues with it.
As for results, I couldn't be happier. The fans kick on and off automatically depending on the head pressure of the system. And as for cooling, it used to take a solid 5 min for the vents to blow 60 degrees due to my stop and go driving, but no within 3 min during 102 degree heat I'm getting 60-55 degrees out of my vent and after 5 min I'm staying right at 40 degrees. I've also noted the system seems to cycle a little less than it used to which keeps me cooler also.

 

Nice mod!
I would just like to add one thing for people interested in doing this mod who live in a climate that receives snow/ice in the winter; you will definitely want to ensure that the fans do NOT OPERATE during the winter. If they run in the winter, it won't be long before the condenser is pummelled by chunks of ice and fairly quickly destroyed.

The A/C system is involved in windshield defogging as a dehumidifier.

One question I have; on the passenger side fan, it appears that there are two mounting points that are driven through the condenser fins. If this is actually the case, which is difficult to tell given the picture, I would definitely be inclined to build a frame in front of the condenser on which to mount the fans.

 

What you've said is true about the winter time excluding the fact that with lower ambient teperatures the head pressure would never reach a level to activate the fans. Again, the fans are turned on by the secondary switch within the pressure switch, which only closes after a certain head pressure is met. A/C systems head pressure is directly related to ambient temperature and in an extremely cold situation such as a snowy day the pressure should never reach the level to close the secondary switch. but if you were still worried about it it would be as easy as pulling the fuse to prevent operation which I plan to do once it's cooler as to prolong the life of the fans.
As for the mounting you are correct, I used typical aftermarket "throught the fin" tie downs. So far I have had no trouble with them but will monitor them as time passes to make sure they continue to hold properly.

 

Very nice!

This is exactly what I have been wanting to do for my remote start because on hot days the A/C doesn't get cold when the truck is just idling. I wasn't sure if it would help but it looks like it will.

Where did you buy the fans?

 

I bought both of them from Amazon. The 9" fan is a pro comp fan; at least that's what they sell it as, and the 10" fan is a Zirgo. My recommendation is to look for the highest cfm in which ever size you choose to run. The 9" fan was too low of a cfm to do what I needed, so when looking for the 10" I focused on the cfm and glad I did.

 

Great idea and great writeup! I have similar issues with my ac in stop and go traffic. I could also see the smaller fan behind the transmission cooler definitely being a help when towing as well to bring down transmission temps in slow or stop and to driving conditions...

Do you have any part numbers you could share with us for the pressure switch and associated wiring plug?

 

Anyone else try this? This is very interesting, and when it starts to get warm again I may give it a shot. Anyone find the part numbers or have a wiring diagram, I dont really care about keeping a factory wiring look, would just want this to work, but I am terrible at wiring things from my head, but good at following direction...

 

Hey sorry for the delayed response, I will get the part numbers for you tomorrow, and I will draw up a wiring diagram for you and post that as well asap.

 

Ok I know I'm a little late but better late than never. The part number for the connector is 90980-10943. As for the part number for the four pin A/C pressure switch it's tricky, I got mine from a A/C liquid line I replaced at work and the sensor comes with the line so I got to save the old one. I looked on the sensor and this is the number it has on it as it's written "443440-0631". It's not written as a usual part number, 5 and 5, but that might work. If not you can go to a junk yard and look for any toyota for pin A/C pressure switch.

Here is the wiring diagram, excuse the quality it's hand drawn...

 

Really great work!!

I've thought about doing this in the past, but for the two months of real summer heat we get here in Southern Ontario, it's not really worth it.

 

Is OP still around? How are the fans working? I am thinking of doing this as I have same cooling problems at idle for several years now. Have you measured actual temps at the vents with/without the fans on?

 

Would be very interested as well, thanks for this awesome find @Chuy

 

@PapaBear I only found two viable threads after one search (for condenser fans). This OP installed two fans; the other one installed one. The one-fan install appears to use a more efficient fan, a 10-inch Perma Cool rated at 2350 CFM and drawing 4.7 amps. On the dual install, the Zirgo 10-inch is no longer available on Amazon; on the Zirgo website, they have a different 10-inch design rated at 1149 CMF, but they do not advertise amp draw. The Procomp 9-inch fan is rated at 700 CFM and draws 8 amps.
Perma Cool install: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-c-condenser-auxiliary-fan.285636/

I did some research on this problem with lower AC temps at idle. It appears to be a common issue with fan clutch designs. I can vouch for this as all my other Toyota products use electric fans and none have ever had this problem. Which has me thinking about installing the fans on the engine side and getting rid of the OEM fan. Low freon; a faulty fan clutch; and debris in the condenser cooling fins are common causes of low AC temps at idle. My freon level is good and my condenser is clear. That leaves the fan clutch which appears to be functioning as I have no cooling issues - my temp gauge is always dead center, even on 120-degree desert runs.

 

I'm wondering if he even bothered to have the system checked for a full charge of refrigerant first?
In a poor performing system, that's the FIRST thing that should be done...evacuate and recharge.

 

Is the op still around here? I have so many questions on this old thread. The best thing would be a part number for that 4 wire high pressure switch because I’m hitting a brick wall finding it.

 

I've been planning on doing this too, and these are the numbers I have written down from researching this and other A/C threads.
88645-04070 Pressure Switch
90301-A0010 O-ring for Pressure Switch
90980-10943 Connector Housing

$11 82998-12440 Genuine Toyota Parts - Terminal, Repair W/W (82998-12440)

82998-12440 Terminal Repair Wires (need two)

 

Let me know what progress you make please because I am in on this soon if you get it nailed down

 

Researching a 2013 EWD, it shows that there is a Mexico version Tacoma which has an additional fan on the condenser.
The circuit branches out from the Magnetic Clutch Relay pin 3 (87) to pin 2(86) of the Condenser Fan Relay. This Condenser Fan relay uses the 4 pin pressure switch to complete the circuit. The condenser fan has its own 20 amp fuse.

 

repair wire with seal
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=435

https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=658