What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Thanks for replying bud. Yea, what's weird is I just replaced the clutch w/a Marlin Crawler about 1.5 yrs ago. And like I said, it's quite until I press in the clutch, then its whines like a little bitch. lol It's going to be an expensive fix, that's about all I know for sure.

 

Yeah I went with the performance clutch and that plus install put me out $1300 this one better last lol

 

Is that Toyota dealer prices?

 

Nope, about $600 for the clutch from URD and $700 for install from a reputable independent transmission shop in town. Toyota wanted almost $1000 for install alone, not including a new clutch...may have come out about the same price going with them + their OEM clutch, but since the one I did have had the TOB go out with less than 30k miles on it, I opted for a much stronger aftermarket setup. The OEM clutch assembly wasn't designed for the added power/torque of the supercharger, despite what TRD wants people to think...

 

Ahhh, I see. Hopefully the urd does well for ya

 

I hope so too. I am taking it back to the shop though because for some reason, after they put this new clutch in and drain/filled my trans with Redline fluid 75w90, my stick shift is getting BLAZING hot on the freeway after about 30 min of driving. The metal shaft under the boot is getting so hot I can't even touch it at times (the knob gets warm but not hot). Never happened before replacing the clutch/fluid, but I'm reading on here and elsewhere that some people experience this with their shifters on the first gens as well.

I know they used enough fluid judging from how much was taken out of the jug I gave them, but I'm wondering if maybe it was overfilled...other than the heat the transmission shifts and runs just fine

 

A good discussion of the install in Monte's build: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rail-rig-and-bs.159436/page-592#post-11856865

A TTORA thread on this topic:

This is the one I just ordered, because I killed my first one on the trail last week.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ate&utm_campaign=2206300&utm_content=10711125

 

Ya I read your post you made yesterday, Wierd. I actually was checking mine today to see if it got hot....slightly warm but nothing really to speak of. I am not sure what fluid is in there currently though.

 

The s/c was used, had all parts and hardware - $1k
It needed a rebuild, all parts cost me about $200
Upgraded the static tensioner for a dynamic tensioner (this is a pulley for the s/c belt) - $250

Basic total - $1450​

The following are upgrades for reliability and more boost
URD 7th injector kit - $900
URD 2.2 pulley - $100

In total - about $2450 +/-​

 

Bump

Does it not really matter?

 

Had a ton of road/wind noise at highway speeds. Got tired of it so I did this. Crossing fingers that this fixes it. Sealed bottom of windshield. Filled entire frame area with expandable foam and sealed antenna wire

 

Snapped some pics

 

Such a beautiful pavement princes....



just giving you shit....she is gorgeous

 

So the same pics you always post?

Wrapped up the axle seal/wheel bearing project today. The machine shop charged me $90 to take the old stuff off and put the new stuff on. So the job in total cost me $90 for that, $120 from LROR for the kit, and $20 for a new set of shoes since the old ones were soaked in diff fluid. Def not bad but could save even more if I get a press and make myself a jig from an old yota axle.



Used the marker method to make sure the seal was riding on the collar properly.

 

I need to do this...bad

Also I have that abs ring but... the truck has no abs. So could it be left off when I do the bearing? Or does it even need to be taken off?

 

The ABS ring serves as a spacer between the bearing lock collar and the ring that the seal rides on. So unfortunately it needs to be there. Otherwise you will press the ring the seal rides on too far forward and the seal will not seal against anything.

If you have an ABS ring, that means your rear axle housing was machined for ABS and thus your seal sits further inside the axle housing than an axle housing without ABS. Thus, the need for the ABS ring to serve as a spacer. I don't have ABS but still had the ABS ring on my rear axles.

 

I recently did real axle seals and bearing and left the ABS tone rings off. No issues and it has been several thousand miles.

The seal rides on the retainer ring, which can pressed on to any point.

 

It wasn't just the alternator, the radiators all got filled up with crap too.

I suspect that mud pool had not been disturbed for a while before we went through it. I'm guessing the heavy stuff had settled out quite a bit. When I went through, it had been stirred up pretty good for me. It was pretty obvious from the results that it was not the same for you guys.

This is the best explanation I have heard on here.

I too recently did rear axle bearings and seals. I did not do it my self, instead opted to have Toyota do it. I was told the exact same thing by the Toyota tech who did the work. Even though my truck does not have ABS, the tone ring has to be there.

 

I was under this impression as well. You will still need two retainer rings, one for the bearing and one for the seal, but like Brett said you shouldn't need the tone ring. That tone ring isn't a spacer by any means because it doesn't butt up to the second retainer ring/c-clip. There is a couple millimeters gap between them. The only thing that matters is the location of the two retainer rings.

 

Without ABS there is no need for the tone ring, it is a waste of time and money.