Power Tailgate Lock

Get a manual tranny. We have normal keys.

 

Maybe, but I am in no rush.

 

I'd pay an extra $50 bucks for a true plug and play kit

 

I put a deposit down on a 2016 Limited today and it has a power tailgate lock installed on it as an option/accessory on the truck. I didn't know Toyota offered this as an option but apparently they do. I believe it was $200 for that option though.

 

It is a Southeast Toyota option through the distributor....

 

That would make sense since I am driving to Atlanta to get it. As many trucks I've looked at its the first I seen it on

 

Just an fyi I made a true plug and play at post 300 on this forum, if you guys are interested but it is way more expensive though.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-tailgate-lock.393110/page-15

 

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ym4y68RfQ0Y" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Just finished my install! used a different actuator that I bought from Best Buy. It was very easy and cost about $30 for the entire job. Link to the best buy actuator. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/directe...=8264905&productCategoryId=pcmcat165900050046


Thanks for the Writeup OP!

 

Got mine all wired up last night using the DIY method, thanks to this thread! Took me longer than I thought it would, as I had issues getting the wire into the cab. Ended up going up the driver's side of the frame and then snaking back across to the passenger side to avoid heat issues with the exhaust system, and I went in through the large grommet under the passenger seat that already has a wire bundle going through it.

It's a bit loud, thinking I might try adding some rubber washers or foam between the actuator and the tailgate to see if that helps.

 

I've read thru this thread front to back and back to front, and I believe all I've seen are Off-Road/tech package trucks doing this mod. I've got the Sport/Short-Bed/Automatic/NON tech pkg, and I'm almost ready to start the install, here's what I have done thus far: Bought a 25' roll of 16ga. trailer wiring, split it in half (there's 4 wires all joined, I just needed 2) and put in a a 1/8" loom, ran the wire into the upper "nipple" thing in the firewall in front of the glove box (passenger side, obviously) and zip-tied to the foil wrapped cable bundle all along the frame to the rear of the truck where it terminates right next to the backup camera plug. The actuator and quick-release plug I ordered from Amazon are being delivered tomorrow, so really all I need to verify for sure is which plug and wires (on the front/passenger side) I need to be looking at for this model? Please don't nuke me, I know there's a lot of people asking basically the same question, but like I said, I haven't seen any descriptions that exactly match my truck (it seems the plugs/wire combinations are different by model) and I want to be sure! Thanks guys! I may update this post with a photo of the kick panel area if that's useful. I "think" it'll be the small lower green and red wires from the black plug, and I'm also thinking it doesn't really matter which one is which since I'm using a generic actuator and my own wiring, if it's backwards, then I can reverse them at the actuator (that's the plan anyway, so we'll see how it goes).

 

I didn't use the black plug, I used the white plug located on the right corner of your picture, which should be the second junction box under the first junction box. The plug is located on the top right on the second junction box. The wire color I used was green and red. My truck is a sport/long-bed/auto/ with tech. If you look at my post on 300 you can see where I pulg my wires in. I made a plug and play harness though because I didn't want to splice the factory harness and if you look closely at the picture, the plug I used should be the same as yours. You can try to match it with yours. Hope this helps.

Edit: I just tested the black plug, which is the plug for the passenger back door so either the white plug or the black plug will work. The white is for the front passenger door and the black is for the back passenger door. The white plug is green and red. The black plug im uncertain because I didn't research the black plug I did the white plug but if you unplug the black plug and press the lock button, you will see the back passenger door did not lock and you can do the same for the white plug as well.

Here is the picture of the plug and the color I used was the red and green.

 

Thanks for the reply! That sort of confirms what I'm planning to do then. I'll stick with my idea of using the black plug since using either the white or the black should have the same result as far as the operation of the remote door lock is concerned. Hopefully the actuator and quick release plug get here earlier rather than later so I have time to work on it in daylight. I'll post back with results. I also should add that I'm adding an inline 5 amp fuse to be accessed inside the kick panel. I'll post pics when that's done, I think I got the time-consuming part done by running the wires today, so hopefully tomorrow will go quick.

 

Running the wire was what took me the most time by far.

I'm 99% certain that the wires you want on that black plug are the smaller red and green ones, that matches what I used on that plug (albeit TRD OR w/tech package) and what I've seen on this thread.

 

Picked up some rubber washers at Lowe's to try and help with the loudness of the actuator. It helped only marginally, not as much as I was hoping.



I put two between the actuator and the tailgate, and two between the tailgate and the screw heads.



So it seems that most of the loudness isn't from the actuator against the tailgate but by the actual movement of the lock mechanism on the tailgate handle. Dynamat will probably help with that more.

Edit: Forgot to mention, I had to get back in there since I didn't have any white lithium grease when I installed it, and the washers were only $1.50 per pack so I figured might as well try it.

 

Thanks for that, those are the 2 wires I was referring to (I would have used those little arrows too, but I'm apparently not that technically literate...). The only other photos available on here of that plug are out of focus and a little hard to decipher, so this clears it up. I just wish I had positap connectors, looks like I'll be using those red clamp-on connectors unless I can find positaps somewhere here in town before the actuator shows up. I'll take some clearer photos anyway when I finish it up and throw them up here. The wire's all stubbed in front to back, so all I have left is to make the connections. Thanks again!

 

Actuator showed up and got it all installed without issue. The hard thing was figuring out how to assemble those stupid waterproof quick disconnect plugs, which were also responsible for the only heart murmur I had when upon final assembly nothing worked until I realized I didn't connect my quick-disconnect connector.... Duh. Anyway, aside from that, it was an easy install thanks to all the help and pointers on here. Thanks guys!

 

What kit did you use or did you do complete DIY ?

 

All DIY, found an actuator & waterproof quick disconnect (5 pk, only needed one) on Amazon and bought a roll of wire & 1/8 loom at the local farm & Ranch since I didn't have any 2-pair wire and I wanted to see if trailer light wiring would work, and it does. I had the rest of the stuff, so now I've got a perfectly functional locking tailgate and I think I'm all-in for about $25.

 

I went with the Pop n lock... installed the hardwire myself, ran the wiring up the passengerside (staying as far from the exhaust as I could) and through one of the unused nipples on the deal in the firewall. Took it to a local car stereo place and had them splice in to be sure it was done right. Love it... and too loud? Doesn't sound any louder than the doors to me... and if it was, why would I care? Great mod!