The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

Nick, I'm working hard to figure out rear shock details and options, and with the help of someone else's informed eyes, I just noticed something here about your measurements.

Your top measurement of the Bilstein is below the bottom bushing. However, the actual mounting surface to the frame's shock mount is above that lower bushing, which according to your photograph above would nominally be an addition 3/4 inch (28 inches), correct? Because asemby is like this, going from bottom to top:

rubber bushing | mounting plate | rubber bushing | washer/nut

Was your shock length at ride height of 21.75 also dependent on this measurement? In other words, did not include the height of that bushing?

 

All measurements of shock are relative to shock eye at the bottom, and bushing washer at the top.

I just annotated the picture of the shock at ride height to clarify and show exactly where I measured from. See if it makes sense now.

 

Got some stuff done,

• Install bedside supports,
• Figure out what to do with fender liner,
• Attach lic plate holder,
• Attach lic plate,
• Reinstall 7-pin tow plug thing,
• Reinstall lic plate lights,
• Pickup more bolts from Toyota,
• Properly align bumper to frame,
• Thoroughly clean spindle cage,
• Put greasy bearing in gate,
• drive seal into spindle cage,
• thoroughly clean spindle,
  
• Attach gate,
  
• Install top bearing, washer, nut, adjust torque accordingly,
• Install spindle cage lid,
• Install spring loaded gate lock pin thing,
• Install stop plate for lock pin to bumper,
• Attach latch retention screw to bumper,
• Attach table hinges, cables, stops, latch, table itself,
• Attach tire carrier,
• Attach spare tire,
• Attach hi-lift mounts screws,
• Attach / check for proper fitment for jerry can holder
• Attach air hose and run along frame to bumper and secure somewhere.
• Test fit spare under the truck

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Wish I had time. Going to have to work 3rd shift, and pull some night installs to get stuff done.

 

Thanks, Nick. Yeah, I think it was clear the way you had it and I appreciate the extra illustration. My point was more about how Bilstein specifies it and measures it from that lower washer, as opposed to how others measure from the actual location that the upper surface of that lower rubber bushing contacts the frame mount at the top of the shock. If that makes sense. I need to account for that difference, and it appears that is it close to 3/4. Any chance you could actually verify that for me at some point during all your free time this weekend?

 

Almost there!

• Install bedside supports,
• Figure out what to do with fender liner,
• Attach lic plate holder,
• Attach lic plate,
• Reinstall 7-pin tow plug thing,
• Reinstall lic plate lights,
• Pickup more bolts from Toyota,
• Properly align bumper to frame,
• Thoroughly clean spindle cage,
• Put greasy bearing in gate,
• drive seal into spindle cage,
• thoroughly clean spindle,
• Attach gate,
• Install top bearing, washer, nut, adjust torque accordingly,
• Install spindle cage lid,
• Install spring loaded gate lock pin thing,
• Install stop plate for lock pin to bumper,
• Attach latch retention screw to bumper,
• Attach table hinges, cables, stops, latch, table itself,
• Attach tire carrier,
• Attach spare tire,
• Attach hi-lift mounts screws,
• Attach / check for proper fitment for jerry can holder
• Attach air hose and run along frame to bumper and secure somewhere.
• Test fit spare under the truck

Okay. Will do

 

1. Your rig is looking awesome!
2. Thanks.

If I assume a 3/4 bushing height, I'm getting this:

Recalculated to include lower bushing at top mount (+3/4 in.) in overall shock length between mounting points

22.5 in: Shock length at ride height.

-5.00" Five inches max up-travel (estimated compression of Wheeler bumpstop).
______
17.5 in. Compressed shock length actual

-.5 in. margin of safety

17 in. maximum shock compression travel desired

27.25 in. max shock extension (minimum desired to get most out of Dakar droop)

10.25 in. travel total

 

Since this was brought up, how tall are your bumpstops measured from the ubolt flip plate?

 

Truck is looking great man. I've commented before, but figured I would again. Thanks for the great write ups and trip reports.

 

Nick- I just finished installing my Dakars + 29XL AAL. I'm about to do my extended brake lines and don't want to screw it up. I never knew that there was such as thing as a flare nut wrench. Could you link me to a good quality wrench. Is there a specific size that I need? I'm gonna install speed Bleeders as well
Thanks again!

EDIT: Found out the flare nut wrench size (10 mm) from your 2nd Gen Socket thread. I ordered the GearHead brand wrench set from Amazon. Thanks!

 

Improving the ARB tire inflator with gauge

After performing an estimated 100 tire air-ups in the last year, I decided some time ago that I wanted to improve the ARB tire infaltor.

The following enhancements were made:

• Hose length increased from 14" to 42"
• $13 Coilhose Pneumatics CH15A Open Lock-On Chuck, 1/4" FPT
  Coilhose Pneumatics CH15A Open Lock-On Chuck, 1/4-Inch FPT
• Milton 760 1/4" MNPT V Style High Flow fitting.

Here it is pictured in stock form.


I like it a lot more now!

I'd like to thank Hong Mei Li, in Songgang Town Baoan, China for sending me the air fitting to make this mod happen. lol

And @Sandman614 , Tim for suggesting the 1/8" BSP thread. ( I dunno why they mix and match NPT, and BSP on the same manifold )

If anyone wanted to follow, you'll need something to go from male 1/8 BSP (British Standard Pipe) thread to 1/4" hose barb.

I used this: uxcell 8mm OD Hose Barb 9.5mm 1/8BSP Brass fitting

Original post of air chuck can be found here: ARB Tire inflator with gauge

This mod was only possible by working third shift, 12:00 AM-1:30 AM.

 

Hong Mei makes some good shit!

I think he makes socks too. LOL

 

Will the same parts work for me if I try to do it around 1pm ? ...or is there some sort of lunar magnetic pull needed to make the Chinese parts fit together ?

 

Hard to get exact measurement (no time), put a tape on it and looks like a little over 4"

That's one option.

I'm going to retain them. I tucked them into the bumper and they are pretty well secured against mud, sand and crap. Not secure enough IMO for rocks though. So, I'm contemplating on how best to secure them.

Might drill a couple holes in bumper for clips.

Right on.

My favorite part of the build, is the trip reports and pictures. Sometime in the future, when the truck is long gone, we'll have those great pictures and memories to reflect on.

Good! Do yourself a favor now, and order up a quality pair of new heavy duty vice grips as well.

pic in this post. Extended Brake Lines,

As it turns out, I'll be cutting out my front brake line tubing on pass side as well, already bought the replacement from Toyota. I tried and could not separate the softline when I tried to upgrade those about three weeks ago. I talked to an expert who told me that in a nutshell, the factory deformed the flare by over-tightening the flare nut during assembly. Yay for me.

Daytime is always preferred, but not always possible.

 

Here is a pic, test fitting some of that outdoor carpet to cover the tailgate skin.

In the time the aluminum has been bare, I've had it heat in the sun and it get's f'ing HOT, dangerously so. I've also been blinded by reflected sunlight.

I got some carpet tape i'll lay down and maybe a little roofing sealant in select locations.

Honestly, I don't have much hope for the carpet tape, since it was not designed for automotive use (wide temperature variations, vibrations, etc.) The roofing sealant however is excellent. I've been using it in the truck instead of silicone for sealing and bonding. Good stuff!

My only reservation with carpet is it might serve as a dust trap. Hope to get it fitted and installed this week.

 

Thanks! I just checked mine and they are at about 4.75" - 5". After this most recent trip it looks like I they could be a little shorter, there is about an inch of shaft left (dust vs Shiney lol super scientific).

 

Is that the compressed height or the standing height? Like @scocar I'm also trying to determine the ideal bumpstops.

 

Compressed and extended

 

Nick, I wouldn't worry too much about the carpet collecting dust, on the converse if you bridge the tailgate gap with that carpet and tuck it under your bed mat it will serve as a seal to help keep dust out of the bed too. I've had a bedrug for 10 yrs now and I just brush and vac it whenever I clean my truck.

 

Much appreciated! That's great to hear. Thanks.

I have been very happy with the super bumps.

For my truck here is how I went about it... What I looked at first was springs, then shock.

Do the super bumps allow the springs to fully compress, and not go too negative? Yes.

Will super bumps protect the shock from bottoming out? Yes.

Will the shock prevent the springs from max droop? No.

Okay then, Done.

Please know that is more to it than that, but in simple terms, that's how I went about it, and have been very happy with the results.





Center hub to fender lip measurement on my truck is 31" (using my custom assembled Dakar Pack)